Toyota :: Uncontrolled Acceleration - Van Smashed Into The Building When Trying To Park
Nov 29, 2006
Today while parking my van infront of a building, with my foot lightly on the brake- my van accelerated uncontrollably and smashed into the building. Luckily I was only 2-3' away from the building- and no one was infront of me. The reving noise and speed at which I hit the building was shocking. I was afraid to drive it, suffered some whip lash and had it towed to a dealer. They have said they can't find anything wrong thru the diagnostic testing. I'm afraid to drive it again-
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I've noticed the brakes don't build pressure when pumped with the truck in park. I can push on the pedal and it has pressure, but it seems lower than normal. I can also push the pedal to the floor slowly, even if I pump the pedal multiple times. I don't see any obvious signs of a leak and the fluid is full. This is a 2001 v10.
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I have a 2001 excursion, v10 4x4 just bought it used thinking I scored until I drove it home (mostly noticeable on freeway, which I didn't do while on my test drive) the steering wheel stays straight, but the truck doesn't stay straight in the road lines,the car turns!! Feels real loose , I hear rattles, rattles going over bumps but mostly real slight uncontrolled steering and seems floaty. Is this a common problem? I did a little searching and found some posts about rattles but noble about sloppy steering.
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Scenario- Start car, back up, and cut wheel to the left out of the driveway. There is a loud, crushed can noise. Yes, just as if I had run over a can, but didn't. This only happens if the air conditioner is on.
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2002 VW Eurovan. It will (after some braking) not release the brake pressure and actually lead to undriveability. In other words: I can go for a drive, apply the brakes at the stop signs and then I can feel how the van gets slower and slower even though I am on the gas. All 4 wheels keep getting brake pressure, the pedal gets harder and I have to stop. Then I have to turn the engine off, after 20 secs I can hear a loud groan that goes through the vehicle and the brakes are released. If I restart the engine too soon, the same thing happens again right away. If I wait at least a minute before restarting, then I can drive away until it happens again (and it does not always do it). The van got a new brake booster 15kmiles ago. I am at a loss. Brake fluid flushed regularly, newer pads and rotors, 195kmiles on the van.
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My 2003 passat 1.8T has been in and out of the shop for the past few months all for the same prob oil sludge was building up in the engine the first time around tried to avoid pulling the oil pan and just ran some flush to clean it out needless to say that didn't work so i had to have my mech pull the oil pan and clean up the mess...... even though this is a known issue that vw is well aware of the refuse to fix the prob unless u have all of your oil change receipts which I do not have because i have my stepfather change my oil I now know that I need to run full synthetic in it......
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I had the headlight replaced in my 2008 Toyota Prius and now after the first rain condensation is building up inside.
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I was driving on the highway, beside the concrete wall that divides the two directions. Suddenly, I saw a deer in the air, jumping from the other side of the wall. It landed on my windshield before I realized what was happening. The windshield smashed and the hood opened. I couldn't see a thing. I tried to hold the wheel and stop the car. Then I guess I hit the the concrete side wall and stopped. All the air bag discharged. I walked out unharmed, except a little bit disorientated.
The Prius was actually beeping. Then I powered off it. I smelled a strong smell of burning plastic. I looked the front, the coolant for ICE was ok. but the coolant for the hybrid system was gone. The window wash tank was fine but the right head light was gone.
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My 9 month old Prius was caught in 3" - 4" hail today. My windshield is smashed and all the horizontal surfaces look like popped bubble wrap including the tops of the doors. Perhaps I'll get 90 mpg from now on.
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Within 2.5 hours, some bandits smashed my rear window and opened the door to steal a purse that was stuffed under the driver's seat. When I arrived there was no alarm going off. I know it was locked because I had to unlock the doors with my key.
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Backing out of garage this morning I brushed against the side and smashed a piece of plastic out of passenger side view mirror. Sent a picture to parts department of local Lexus dealer and quoted 304.80 for "special order" part + 300 for labor. This is an insane price for a non-functioning piece of plastic. Thoughts on best DIY way to proceed? I have the broken off plastic, but it does not sit flush in the assembly.
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I bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
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I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
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The car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
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Well, due to an unresolved A/C issue my dealer has had my Treg for 2 weeks out of the past 2 months and then my front grill flew off and smashed my windshield. Dealership agreed to cover the damage but managed to sell-off my replacement windshield by accident. Been driving around for 2 weeks with a badly cracked windshield, waiting for replacement glass. Funny thing is that the crack in the glass now has made my "rainsensing" wipers trigger better than before. But now I have
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I've seen a lot of off road racks mounted into rain gutters or the side of jeeps and whatnot, but can I just use the factory rails? Which way is better? The idea would be to remove the factory cross bars, and saddle up the custom rack in the rails that came with the vehicle.
Also, as far as weight is concerned the rack is going to be about 112" x 52" with a custom light bar in the front. The rack itself is going to weigh about 120-160 lbs. 1" square aluminum tubing., with 1 and 1/4 inch base, about 16-18" tall in the back, 10" in the front
I would like to be able to use a ladder and get up on it myself (200lbs), but I have a feeling this might be too much weight. me+sparetire+rack = fail?????
I know the rack itself can handle it I can jump up and down on it on the floor, but x roof is going to hold up or buckle?
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2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
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Im lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
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2001 Hyundai Elantra, with an automatic transmission.
1. I am experiencing a "grinding" sound upon my initial acceleration from park? This only occurs when the car has been sitting for a decent amount of time and the engine is relatively cold. To give you more detail: I start the car, throw it in gear and begin to accelerate. The grinding sounds is almost instant and sounds horrible. It is fairly consistent how long it lasts and generally once the car shifts to 2nd or 3rd it goes away. I do not hear it again until I park, leave the car for a while, then start it up and begin driving again.
2. I am hearing a "tension" like noise, also a little like scraping, when I brake at slow speeds coming from my driver side front wheel. I recently had my brakes replaced so I know its probably not the pads and at the time the rotors looked fine too. It is not a constant noise during the breaking either meaning, I apply the breaks, i hear it for a second, then it goes again, then it comes back, then goes away. Again it sounds like a mix between scrapping metal and tension.
What it could be, what I could look at on my own or how to get it resolved?
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I recently installed a k04 turbo, when I try and accelerate hard my wastegate just seems to open up very quickly without building much boost. I don't have a boost gauge or anything like that installed. Do I start by adjusting the wastegate actuator, or install MBC. Pretty new to this still.
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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