The mechanic told me the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced but it is not an essential item. Can this be bypassed in order to have the car pass. Its not a safety issue. My car is a 98 and has 147,000 miles on it. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, the heat does not always work and I am shopping for a new car and do not want to spend money on anything not needed
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
View 4 RepliesCan not get MIL light to stay off and car will not pass state inspection. After hooking up laptop to my 96 850GLT and using VOL-FCR the EFI-445 code comes up and also states Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System Pump Signal. Everything seems to be working properly (relays, pump etc.) and vacuum pressure around 18. I have replaced the upstream O2 sensor as my OBD II scanner said that was the problem but after that the scanner was pretty much useless as it lead me in a hundred different areas to check and is getting costly so got the VOL-FCR.
View 8 Replies1996 Chevy 2500 (3/4 Ton) 4x4.
My vehicle inspection wouldn't pass the jounce bumper bracket (stops upper control arm from traveling too far) on the drivers side front. The bracket is rusting out and needs to be repaired or replaced. The bracket is welded to the frame.
Does it sound feasible to cut a bracket off at the wreckers and weld it to my frame?
Do they allow zip disk cutters in Pull a Part?
The passenger side bracket is OK.
My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
View 5 RepliesMy check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
View 1 RepliesThis is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
View 6 Replies1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
View 19 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
My girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
The "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
View 4 RepliesMy check engine light won't stay off. My mechanic keeps replacing things. He says its got to be the exhaust system. I was wondering if its something electrical or within the car's computer system. First time he replaced one of the catalytic converters. The light went off then reappeared several days later. He replaced the oxygen sensor. Light off again then back on 2 days later. Then he replaced the other catalytic converter. (I was told there are 3 of them). Once again the engine light went off but reappeared 2 days later.
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
View 30 RepliesFor a few months, I have been getting check engine lights on my Toyota Corolla 2002. The check engine light often goes away by itself.
I took my car to a mechanic with a decent reputation after a couple weeks of the problem. He thought he fixed it and gave the car back to me. The check engine light kept coming back on, and I kept going back. The mechanic topped off the coolant, replaced certain hoses, host clamps, sensors and other parts (like the solenoid canister). After the fifth trip back (and eight weeks of time), he refunded my money.
The check engine light comes on and goes off. Right now with no check engine light on, I get codes P0125 and PO441 PD.
What will happen if I keep ignoring these check engine lights or the codes that persist when the check engine light is not on? I was thinking of going to another mechanic. I think I want to wait for a few more weeks to see if I notice a pattern. I do not drive that many miles each day (much less than average).
Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
I had my 2000 Toyota Camry with 133,921 miles on it seen because of the check engine light.The codes obtained at the repair shop were:
P0136: Oxygen Sensor CKT Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0446: Evap Control system Vent CKT Malfunction
They then ran a smoke test and found that the charcoal canister was leaking and needed replacement. The mechanic said that not doing the above would not affect the car's performance or its safety but it would not pass inspection with the check engine light on and with those codes.