Toyota :: A/C System Was Diagnosed With Freon Leaks
Jun 5, 2015
My Avalon 2006 A/C system was diagnosed with Freon leaks. Mechanic can not locate the leak and he feels it will be from the evaporator down the dash board. He is talking about a $1000.00 job plus one week of the car in the shop. My question is:
1) What the probabilities are that the leak is down the dash?
2) It will be a very intense labor or is anyway to make more simple job?
3) Would a dealer do a better job with the diagnose?
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I am a second owner to a 2008 GX Blizzard Pearl that I love. Have had the truck 4 years.
Truck has 83k miles. Is it time to change the timing belt, water pump, etc? Has never been done.
Aircon issues. Freon leaks out. Leak seems to be behind firewall, but mechanics have not been able to locate the leak.
Hate the wheels on the truck now that the paint is blistering.
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
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2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
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Replaced the condenser and manifold on a 1997 chevy silverado and drew a vacuum on the system, when adding freon to the system the first can pushed the pressure up to 70 PSI on the low side and it has stayed there.
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I gave my daughter my 2007 Malibu Maxx in 2010. It had at the time around 70,000 miles. Then the problems with the cooling system antifreeze leaks. We've replaced the radiator 9/2011. Drove ok for awhile then developed a leak again spring 2012. Chevy dealer in 4/2012 says wed need a new coolant tank. Replaced that no problems until 10/2012. Leaks again then Chevy dealer says we need a new water pump. Replaced that item.
Guess what here we are in Feb of 2013 and we have another leak. Back to the dealer and they say that a radiator cap located midway down the radiator was broken apart and they replaced that. All procedures done by dealers have included a pressure check save for when the radiator was replaced. So here we are at March 1, 2013 three days after the last repair and radiator fluid is leaking from the right front of the car again. What could possibly be the problem???
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I have a 2012 Toyota Yaris. My brother backed into a truck and now my trunk is off track, has a gap (you can see into the trunk, whole right side of trunk) and of course when it rains it gets into my trunk and into the back seat. I don't have the money to go to a body shop to get it fixed. So I was wondering how to go about fixing it. I live in Indianapolis and so far this spring we've had LOTS of rain. The smell is about to drive me crazy, I feel horrible because my 4 year old has to sit back there. I need to get it under control before mold sets in, if it hasn't already. I really don't want to wrap it in plastic but I feel like that's my only option. Is there some kind of sealer or foam I can use? I'm to the point that I don't care if I can't get into the trunk.
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This is Toyota Camry 98 with V6 3.0 engine.After smelling burnt oil while driving (mostly during stops, to be more precise), I took the car to Toyota service mechanics. They found leaks in both valve cover gaskets, and a leak from behind the timing belt cover. The leaks from valve covers were dripping onto exhaust, causing the burning smell.
The total repair cost is quoted at around $2k ($700 for valve covers and $1300 for what is behind the timing belt assembly).
Is it worth doing ? My worry is that, since 3 separate seals are failing, it is likely that other seals will start failing soon.Should the whole engine be rebuilt instead ?
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I just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
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My 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
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I've got a 96 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, that appears to be losing coolant. I do not see any apparent leaks. I've checked compression and all cylinders are 170lbs. Within the past year I've replaced the radiator and hoses, timing belt, water pump, etc. Within the past month I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I do see it bubbling in the overflow tank. Also you see vapor with the radiator cap off. I feel sure its probably a head gasket ..
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A couple of days ago, my wife noticed that the floor mat on the rear passenger side of her car was sopping wet. She thought perhaps a water bottle must have spilled or leaked, so she soaked up the water and dried out the mat. Today, the mat was wet again with about an inch of water accumulating only on the passenger side of the rear floor.
We have had no significant rain for more than two weeks; in fact, it's been sunny and hot with temps in the 90s. There is no water on the front floor or the rear driver's side floor. Due to the heat, we have run the AC, but it is working fine with no apparent leaks. There is no apparent leaking in the trunk or underneath the car. There are no apparent leaks from the radiator or hoses. Everything is working fine, except for the water on the rear passenger side floor. We can't figure out the source of the water.
The car is a 2006 4-door Toyota Camry LE with 199K miles on it.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
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Ok, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).
When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.
Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).
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I had my a/c recharged in April and it was blowing hot again by July. I brought it back in today and they told me that it is leaking out of the Schrader valve on the low pressure side. They told me that they would have to replace the entire line which would cost a few hundred just in parts. Why can't they just replace the valve. The tried calling auto stores for a special part, but could not find one. How to seal or repair just the leaking Schrader valve and not the entire line?
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2010 Sonata, AC isn't working correctly so we added 1 1/2 cans freon. Got the temps down to 40 and then it was running for about a half hour, we started the car after it sat for 20 mins and it appeared that the ac "vented" some freon out. The pressures were 225 high side and 33-35 low side, the ambient temp is around 87 degrees. The venting appeared to be committed no from the lower drivers side condenser. I may be wrong, but never seen this before. Anyway, after it "vented" his ac basically stopped working but the ac gauges still read 210 high side and around 25 low side......
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So I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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