Toyota - 4runner - Wheels - Transmissions :: 2000 - Right Rear Wheel Doesn't Roll
Mar 19, 2011
I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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All of a sudden my rear window on the passenger side does not roll down. I can hear the motor running but it won't go down. What could possibly be the problem? Is it something that is very expensive to fix? Could it be a fuse?
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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I have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
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After some off-roading and hit some pretty big bumps at speed, and now my steering wheel is about 15 degrees off, but the car is not pulling.
I am in another country where I don't speak the language well, so what should be done to fix this. I took it into the shop, and they pulled the car onto some electronic sensors and said the alignment was fine. They did a very visual inspection (glance?) under the car as well, and were ready to send me on my way.
I showed them that the steering wheel was off, and their solution was to just take off the wheel and put it back on straight. Is this what should be done to fix this problem? I do believe the alignment of the cars is okay because it's driving fine, but I'm still not sure if there is something else going on that caused the steering wheel to be knocked out of line. I've been doing some online searching and I'm not so sure that they are doing the right thing.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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I have a 2000 Toyota SR5 with a 6-cylinder engine. When I first start the car (cold start) in the morning it will run at high idle (1500-1800 rpm) for about 3-4 minutes. At this point, the idle will begin to drop, but then the engine starts to surge. It's a noticeable surge that bounces from around 900-1100 rpm. It almost seems like an electrical surge, but I don't believe that's the problem. After running the car for a while and it's fully warmed up to operating temperature, the surge goes away. My thoughts automatically went to the IAC (idle air control) or maybe a temp sensor?
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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I just did my winter hard top for the season, hooked up the plug for the rear heater and it works but it's cranking out cold air even when I am up to running temperature. The front heater is blowing lots of heat. Am I missing something? Is there something other than the plug I need to hook up?
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It seems to be coming from the front passenger side wheel well area. It's only present during braking and coming to a stop. Seems to be also related to wheel speed. The brake performance doesn't seem to be impacted but it's very embarrassing creaking through a parking lot. The noise doesn't seem to be present on a cold start but once the brakes warm up it really comes to life.
I noticed with both wheels up off the ground that the front passenger side wheel (The side making noise) had more resistance than the drivers side when trying to spin. [URL]...............................
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My 2000 4Runner will start slipping just after acceleration from a stop only after having driven it for about 5 minutes. I really don't think it's anything major because I've always been nice to the transmission and don't drive like a wild child.
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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner with 4wheel drive stick shift and it has been making a loud rrrrrrrrrrrr sound. It seemed like it was coming from the front right wheel or somewhere close to that area, so I checked the brake pads and rotor for rocks or any other object that might have gotten stuck. There was nothing stuck, however I did notice that the boots were ripped. So I changed both front axles and I also replaced the wheel bearing only from where the noise appears to be coming from. The noise is still there. It makes the noise sometimes, if i'm going slow or fast. Other than that, the car drives well.
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Passenger side rear brake light works when lights are off, but does not when lights are on. In looking at both lights while on, the passenger side seems to burn much dimmer than the driver side.
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I have a 2003 Camry with 116k miles, 4 cyl, auto trans. I have been starting to feel some popping on my steering wheel whenever I hit a bump or turned the wheels. It happened randomly. Today I rotated my 4 tires and found this on my left front strut. I am attaching 2 pictures. Hope they are good enough for the experts to see. This is on the left strut. I don't know if its a tie rod. And when I shook it to see if it was causing the popping feel...indeed it was loose.
All I know it isn't good to see something like that. I want to know what this is, could I do it myself and what can I do about it?
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Vehicle is a 2000 Ex. Limited 2WD 6.8, 3:73 rear, 135,000 miles purchased at the end of December (Merry Christmas to me!). When I purchased the vehicle it had some vibration at speed, that I chalked up to the completely worn tires, tire rod ends and ball joints, all that I knew about when purchasing. The vibration slowly builds up to 70mph, and then comes on like a light switch where it is nearly violent, then slowly dissipates over 80mph. First on the vehicle were new BFG TA/KO2's 285 75 16. No change in vibration. Next were ball joints and tie rod ends. No change in vibration. Next were new inner/outer front hub bearings, rotors, pads. No change in vibration. At this point I was scratching my head a little. I had the tire balance checked twice by two different shops. Alignment was also checked by two different shops.
The vehicle has 2" spacers under the front coils and an aftermarket 4" lift block in the rear of unknown manufacture. I decided that the vibration may be due to an incorrect taper on the block causing a pinion angle issue. I replaced the block with a stock F-350 block for the same wheelbase truck. No change in vibration.
At this point I figure all that is left is the driveshaft and I am very fortunate to have the great guys at Driveshaft Specialists about 2 miles away from my office here in San Antonio. They took it out for a drive and said "we'd love to sell you a new driveshaft, but we don't think that's it." They put it on the lift, jacked up the rear by the differential and ran it up to speed. By 50mph the rear wheels had VERY VISIBLE "hopping" at the hub. You would have thought there were 5lb weights attached to the inside of each wheel. It was vibrating like crazy. There isn't any noise or play to indicate bearings (and with the amount of wobble/hopping/vibration I was seeing the bearings would have to be reduced to dust). Their best guess is that somehow the axles are bent
They referred me to another shop where the Ex will be going today, for possibly new axles. I am leaving for a 2500 mile round trip road trip Thursday and am at my wits (and wallets) end.
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Recently my 2001 Solara started emitting a scraping noise from one of the rear wheels. Mechanic says its a frozen caliper, and suggested a complete brake job (rotar, pads, etc). My question is, I've got reasonable skills, by buddy has major skills when it comes to working on cars, is that something that a shade-tree mechanic can safely do ? Also, as its a frozen caliper, does that imply I need to replace the caliper, or could it have frozen due to the pads ?
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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So I heard some low-pitch but still the squeaky-type noise under the wheel when I turn it while driving/parking. In addition, once in a while, while driving the car, it will automatically honk on the street. I sense the car may need some check-up for its electric system. But what shall I do at this moment?
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We had light snow here in Boston tonight, and its a little chilly, nothing crazy. I get into my car after finishing work, start the car as normal and clear the snow off the windows.
Get back in the car, select 'R' and the car doesn't roll back like usual... I apply some gas and... nothing. I try 'D' and again the engine just revs - its just totally failing to get any gears. Engine oil levels are good.
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Reverse gear doesn't work on my 1999 F350, is the transmission need to be rebuilt? or it can be adjust thru the cable. the rest gears on transmission is Ok.
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