Toyota - 4runner :: CEL Periodically Turns On And Off
Oct 27, 2013
The CEL on my 3.0l 93 4runner intermittently turns itself off and on. I have had it to a shop and got error code 25 and error code 26. (If the numbers are wrong the codes meant lean/rich mix. The first time this happened the shop replaced the O2 sensor. When the light came back on the shop said the problem was the "mass air flow (something)". The shop ordered a new MAF and after testing the new one and the old one decided the MAF was not the problem. At this point I'm just ignoring the light and driving the vehicle. The vehicle does seem to run just fine.
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I have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
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My 2001 Saab 95's engine periodically downshifts. Usually the downshift happens after some highway acceleration. The ABS light turns on at the same time as the downshift. The road conditions are always dry. The downshifting started last summer and has continued during the winter months. The alternator was recently replaced but the downshifting periodically continues. MY Saab repair shop cannot figure out what the issue is.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.) This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.)
This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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Alright, need to decide between a 2000 Passat 4motion with 108k miles, no maintenance history - OR - a 1997 Toyota 4runner, all maintenance history available, 150k, new breaks, timing and water pump just done. The VW is 1k more. I should add the 4runner has zero rust, and no frame rot.
Here is why I'm having a hard time.
1. I like VW's
2. MPG / Cost for gas is actually LESS for the 4runner... no premium, 4motion nets 17mpg avg - 4runner nets 16mpg avg (I drive 50/50 city highway).
The roads where I live are HORRIBLE - 1ft deep potholes are normal in the city, and unavoidable, expansion joints rise up to 4" at times- which feels like hitting a damn log.
I wrench my own cars, I've never gone to a mechanic or dealer ever. Had a mk2 gti, mk2 jetta, mk3 vr6 gti, a mk3 cabrio, and a mk4 jetta 1.8t in my past. Ive done timing belts, CV's, wheel bearings, control arms, struts, rebuilt heads. BUT- the Passat looks to be a complete PITA to work on (insane timing belt procedure, 8 front control arms, TCM water rot issues, etc). The 4runner appears on surface- to be much easier to wrench on - I could be wrong. I do have a VAGCOM, which supports a bit on the VW.
I love VW's - but I want AWD (or true 4x4), space, and something I can actually work on. The reason for AWD is I have family near the upper peninsula of MI I would like to visit year round.
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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I have a 98 toyota 4runner. Limited, automatic transmission, 4wd, 6cly. 3.4L. Recently my 4runner was towed and after picking it up from the impound lot I went to test the 4wd. This model has a separate shifter for 4wd with an on the fly button which you press to engage 4hi. Well, when I went to test it the 4wd the light did not come on and I felt no "clunk" as I normally do when engaging the 4wd, (this is even after driving a few feet.) So I went to test the 4lo. I put the transmission in neutral and pushed the 4wd shifter forward to the neutral position as I tired to go one more to the 4lo position it began producing a horrible grinding sound. I didn't push the shifter all the way forward for fear of further damaging something so I went to put it back into 4hi and again this horrid grinding sound. Basically the 4runner was stuck with the transfer case in neutral? It wouldn't even go into park with out making this horrible sound, so I had to shut everything down and put it back into park and hi mode. When I turned it on again I tried it again and still the same result.The 4runner works just fine in 2wd. And eventually the 4wd light came on after driving a few blocks with the button pressed although, I'm not sure the 4wd was even engaged because I never felt the "clunk." It is still grinding when trying to shift into 4lo. Fluids are changed regularly and it is very well maintained. It has 228XXX miles.
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I have a 1989 manual drive TOYOTA 4RUNNER, diesel. My mechanic has done everything, new head gasket, machined the head for warp, pressure tested the engine block, and the engine oil is still leaking into the radiator. My car used to have Air-condition but since it hasn't worked for over 5 years the compressor was removed, could this have caused the oil to leak after all those years.
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My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
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i have an 87 toyota 4runner with the 22re last week the starter stuck on and drained the battery and burned the starter up so i replaced the battery and starter and now it will start and run for about 3 seconds and run out of gas
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My 2005 Toyota 4Runner is the V8 version with 4 wheel drive. I'm getting a pulsating humming sound at around 70 MPH - woh woh woh. Thought it might be new tires but it stops the instant you let off the accelerator. Hard to pinpoint location but if I had to guess I'd say driver's side front.
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I am all of a sudden getting really bad gas mileage on my truck and have no power. The "check engine" light was on and I changed the O2 sensor, and the light went off, but am still getting about 15 miles/gallon as opposed to the 22 I was getting. Changed my spark plugs about 1 year ago.
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My Toyota is leaking oil from above the oil pan, in the front. I think it is we're the crank shaft plate is. Do I have to pull the engine to replace the gasket
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i have a vibration that starts about 45mph."When i put it in neutral it still vibrates". I did check the universals. Rig has 195,000 miles on it. Manual trans. It must be lifted because im running 265/7516s on it. Ive been busy changing fluids and such so i have been underneath it but didnt look for lift or factory.
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It is a 1999 Toyota 4 runner SR5, not sure when last changed out fluid and filter. Why would my engine vibrate at 52mph and above? Once I take my foot off rthe gas it stops untl i press gas pedal again. I have had the front end alignment done and the tires checked.
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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