Toyota - 4runner :: 2004 - Air Only Comes Out Of Dashboard Vents / Buzzing For 10 Seconds
Jun 6, 2011
Symptoms:
1. When the air is on, it only comes out of the dashboard vents. If I change the flow to be all on the floor, defrost windshield, or anything else, it won't change the direction of the air; it continues to come out of the dashboard front air vents.
2. There is a buzzing that lasts from start for about 10 sec. It then quits. It will come back on for a couple seconds and then go off. It is only in the cabin; cannot be heard outside the car. If we turn off the air, the buzzing stops, but not immediately.
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The ABS no longer working lights like brakes, abs, vsc all illuminated on the dashboard, diagnosed and found out the accumulator has gone bad though, the pump is ok, need a new accumulator to move the suv from its present location to a safe place.
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Along with the many other quirks of my 98 Toyota 4Runner, whenever I have to hit the brakes suddenly and hard it takes my car at least 30 seconds to become responsive to the gas pedal. When I try to accelerate, I can hear the engine rev, but the car doesn't move. Is this a brake issue, or could it be a transmission issue? I have 230k on it.
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My 2004 Toyota 4-Runner leaks in the driver floorboard every time it rains. I am at a loss as to why?
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey that is making an intermitent buzzing noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard. It sounds like an old speedometer going bad but this car should have a computerized speedometer. It appears to be weather related as it does not happen in the winter. When it happens, the buzzing is reduced if you slow down the car a bit. It can vary in intensity and can get very loud. I took the car to the dealer and they want to take the dashboard off....
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Just the other day, I'm driving along and flashed my lights at another car so they can make a left turn into a parking lot. No big deal. However, when doing that, I noticed a buzzing noise when I pulled back the lever to engage the lights.
After I got home, I tested things out and found:
With my Euroswitch, I don't have any lights on during the day (no DRLs, etc). This is when this buzzing noise occurs. As it was getting dark out, I also noticed that when I pull the lever back to engage the high beams (i.e., to flash them) the dashboard would light up (like if I turned on the lights normally).
Now, if I have the park lights or headlights on already (which includes the dashboard), and flash the high beams, the buzzing noise does NOT happen.
It also doesn't happen when I push the lever forward to enable the high beams fully. The buzzing sound seems to come from the lower left, around my left knee area or near the steering column.
Why this is happening, and what the cause might be? What is the possible part that needs to be replaced?
I have a 2004 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6-speed. Seems like the old signature is gone.
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Background: I brought my R in for service last week because the AC stopped working. I ended up needing the compressor and the fans replaced. I picked my car up and drove it home with no problems. The next day I drove it I started to hear a rather loud buzzing noise that sounded like something was rattling loose from the front passenger side of the car behind the dashboard. It was loud enough to hear over the stereo while driving on the freeway.
Thinking something was wrong with the newly installed fans I brought the car back to the dealership and now they're telling me the fuel pump needs to be replaced. From what I understand, the fuel pump is in the back of the car under the rear seats and attached to the gas tank. I explained to them that I'm a bit confused because the sound is clearly coming from the front of the car but the mechanic there insists what I'm hearing is the fuel pump. Am I crazy or does what they're saying sound reasonable?
I tried looking at a couple YouTube videos that had sound of a VR6 fuel pump gone bad but the sound was nothing like what I was hearing.
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I have a 1990 Chevy Celebrity wagon with a vent problem. The air will only blow out the dashboard vents, so I'm getting no heat down below, or air to the defroster.
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I recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
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I am experiencing a buzzing rattle coming from the left corner of the dashboard in the area near the horizontal speaker. It's not loud but it's annoying. It only happens when the car is moving. It doesnt seem to be affected by the audio system being powered on or off. The best thing I can think of to describe it the sound a Geiger counter makes, but not as loud.
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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The CEL on my 3.0l 93 4runner intermittently turns itself off and on. I have had it to a shop and got error code 25 and error code 26. (If the numbers are wrong the codes meant lean/rich mix. The first time this happened the shop replaced the O2 sensor. When the light came back on the shop said the problem was the "mass air flow (something)". The shop ordered a new MAF and after testing the new one and the old one decided the MAF was not the problem. At this point I'm just ignoring the light and driving the vehicle. The vehicle does seem to run just fine.
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Alright, need to decide between a 2000 Passat 4motion with 108k miles, no maintenance history - OR - a 1997 Toyota 4runner, all maintenance history available, 150k, new breaks, timing and water pump just done. The VW is 1k more. I should add the 4runner has zero rust, and no frame rot.
Here is why I'm having a hard time.
1. I like VW's
2. MPG / Cost for gas is actually LESS for the 4runner... no premium, 4motion nets 17mpg avg - 4runner nets 16mpg avg (I drive 50/50 city highway).
The roads where I live are HORRIBLE - 1ft deep potholes are normal in the city, and unavoidable, expansion joints rise up to 4" at times- which feels like hitting a damn log.
I wrench my own cars, I've never gone to a mechanic or dealer ever. Had a mk2 gti, mk2 jetta, mk3 vr6 gti, a mk3 cabrio, and a mk4 jetta 1.8t in my past. Ive done timing belts, CV's, wheel bearings, control arms, struts, rebuilt heads. BUT- the Passat looks to be a complete PITA to work on (insane timing belt procedure, 8 front control arms, TCM water rot issues, etc). The 4runner appears on surface- to be much easier to wrench on - I could be wrong. I do have a VAGCOM, which supports a bit on the VW.
I love VW's - but I want AWD (or true 4x4), space, and something I can actually work on. The reason for AWD is I have family near the upper peninsula of MI I would like to visit year round.
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When I turn on the A/C, the compressor engages and the blower switches to the dashboard vents. I waited for a minute or two, but no cool air.
The sight glass has a silver line running through it. I assumed this was full? It would be black if it was low/empty.
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I've got a 2011 F-350, when i'm on the driving over 60 mph i hear this humming or buzzing noise coming from around the dash. It kind of comes and goes depending on the wind direction or if I'm passing a semi. Thinking it may be coming from around the windshield seal.
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