Toyota - 4runner :: 2002 - Traction Control / VSC / CEL Comes On?
Oct 28, 2014
I have had my 2002 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 for a few years now and it's been a vRttery. But now they are coming on within each fill up and within the first 100 miles of driving. So I had this Mobil Mechanic come by a couple of times and tell me that his little gizmo says that it is the Catalytic converter. Of course I'm skeptical because the Trac and VSC lights are on as well as the Check light. I'm thinking that maybe he has a cheapo little gizmo and that maybe it has something to do with the brake system.What do you think?
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TOYOTA 4Runner 2002. Have an annoying problem with climate control. Control working intermittently,. Cannot control desire temperature. I read there are very common symptoms for all 1999-2002 Toyota 4Runner LE.
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I have a 2002 4Runner that has recently developed a vibration at freeway speeds. I purchased new tires about two months before the vibration started. I have been back to the place where I bought my tires and the assure me that they are balanced.
I have been dealing with this problem for the past couple of months and have been getting nowhere. When I took my 4Runner into the dealership to get the lower ball joint replaced I spoke with the service folks about the vibration problem and all I got in response was "we've never heard of that before".
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2002 4Runner 4x4, 180K miles. I bought this car about a year ago and don't know anything about its history before that but it seems to be in good shape.
About every month or two I take a trip that includes driving a few miles on a dirt road. It is a graded road in pretty decent shape. What has happened about 6 times during the year is that the CEL comes on while I am driving on the dirt road. The car continues to run well. When I get home and hook up my code reader the code is always P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.
To save everyone the trouble of looking that up, this code indicates that either the upstream or downstream A/F Ratio sensor is bad. If both sensors test good then it is probably a bad cat.
What is different here is that after I clear the code, the CEL stays off as long as I stay on paved roads. So to summarize, I don't get the code every time I drive on a dirt road but every time the CEL has come on it is while I was on a dirt road.
So it seems that something about driving on a dirt road causes the CEL. Two obvious things you get on a dirt road are dust and vibration. What could be causing this? I did a visual inspection of the whole exhaust but did not see anything obvious such as cracks or leaks.
And of course I could live with this if I have to since it comes up under such limited circumstances. I just like to keep my cars running properly.
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How to disable traction control system on Prius 2002 ?
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Son was driving his car today and the roads were patchy ice leaving the addition. As he went around a turn the car started to slip and traction control kicked in. Right after that the trac off light came on and won't go off. Tried recycling the trac switch on and off to no avail. Tried to check the fuse but can't find where it is located.
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So out of nowhere my ABS and traction control light came on yesterday, then this morning it went away. When I got to work I pulled my e-brake and both lights came back on again wtf???? It's a 02 gti 337. Seems I am just having alot of luck to start off the week........
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I have a 202 Jetta 1.8T GLS. Sometimes the traction control light comes on and the car jumps like it cant figure out what gear to go in. It gets very interesting to drive when it does this as I am sure you can imagine. Only other light that is on is the engine control light which is on all the time. Car seems to run fine until this happens. If I pull over and shut the car off it seems fine when I start it up again and continues to run fine and all of a sudden it happens again. I do have a code p2637 Torque Management feedback signal "A".
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2010 Toyota Corolla, 5spd. I was trying to get it up a snowy/icy hill this weekend and, although I succeeded, the car made a very scary noise that I couldn't decipher. Here's what happened:
When the traction control engages, it makes a sound like the ABS engaging. That wasn't the noise that worried me. I was feathering the clutch and trying to massage the car up the slippery incline, and it started making a loud rhythmic banging noise. It sounded like what happens when you're parked and you think the car's off, but it's not, and you take your foot off the clutch. The clutch engages and makes a bang, and the engine stalls. (Not that I've ever done that before.) That's what it sounded like going up the hill, but about twice a second and very steady.
As soon as I heard it, I tried releasing the clutch pedal all the way, I tried feathering the clutch more, I modulated the throttle a bit, but honestly I was 3/4 of the way up the hill after 45 minutes of trying and I didn't want to stop! So I bang-bang-banged twenty feet up the hill or so, then when I stopped at the top the car seemed fine. I've since driven it another 300 miles of city and highway and no issues whatsoever.
Now, I've driven stick for twenty years and dozens of cars and am very comfortable in my own skill. This clutch has always seemed a little screwy since we bought the car, but the dealer mechanic told me (when I mentioned it early on) that it's normal. It's hard to describe why I think it's screwy but it doesn't feel like any other clutch I've driven, new or old. Including, every once in a while, when I'm pulling away from a stop sign in normal (dry) conditions, the clutch will chatter a couple times as I engage it. It's far from a consistent or reproducible problem, and I always wrote it off until this recent episode that sounded/felt similar but much much worse.
Could there be oil on the clutch plates? Could this have something to do with the traction control.
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My 07 Prius recently started to get a traction control warning and loss of power on smooth, dry roads at 65mph on an interstate highway..... There was enough space between us and the 80,000 lb truck behind us..... As we slowed the warning abated and power was restored. BUT, the car will not maintain 65 mph without this recurring. Toyota has not been useful. Nothing stored on the pcu indicates what may have occurred.
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2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
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I have 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Currently the brake light is on and the ABS and traction control are not working. The brakes have been checked and are ok and it has been hooked up to a code reader and no codes come up. Occasionally the light will go off and the abs and traction control work for awhile.
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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