Toyota - 4runner :: 2000 - After Start Up Idles Slowly
Oct 31, 2011
My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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In my 4 runner when I slowly accelerate between 30 and 40 mph just as I can hear the car about to shift gear the car begins to shake when I than accelerate the shaking stops. Brought it to a shop and they changed a spark plug and coil they say was mis firing, but I pick the car up and the problem is still there. Their diagnostic shows no problems, yet the shaking is still there when slowly accelerating between 30-40, no check engine light has ever come on. While it shakes if I shift the car from D to 4 the shaking stops, and if I speed hard through 30- 40 it doesn't shake, just when I slowly accelerate.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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I have a 2000 Toyota SR5 with a 6-cylinder engine. When I first start the car (cold start) in the morning it will run at high idle (1500-1800 rpm) for about 3-4 minutes. At this point, the idle will begin to drop, but then the engine starts to surge. It's a noticeable surge that bounces from around 900-1100 rpm. It almost seems like an electrical surge, but I don't believe that's the problem. After running the car for a while and it's fully warmed up to operating temperature, the surge goes away. My thoughts automatically went to the IAC (idle air control) or maybe a temp sensor?
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My 2000 4Runner will start slipping just after acceleration from a stop only after having driven it for about 5 minutes. I really don't think it's anything major because I've always been nice to the transmission and don't drive like a wild child.
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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A few months ago I purchased a 2.7l toyota 4runner 1999 with about 144k from original owner. A few weeks later, the vehicle won't start. when I turned the key in the ignition, nothing happens. my mechanic from toyota dealership have checked or changed everything; the relay, battery, starter, switch module and neutral switch sensor. What it might be and how I can get it fixed?
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Car is 2000 Corolla 4-spd auto at 65k miles (bought used 3 years ago). Replace CV axles about 1.5 years ago.
When I backed out today, I saw a red fluid in the snow. Also, my trans fluid has been slowly declining (I've been adding more in).
Where is it likely to leak from? Is the only place the output shaft seals? Would the mechanic be able to spot it out easily?
I saw some posts where the entire gearbox had to be removed (but i think that was for a manual trans)..I hope that doesn't apply to autos.
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I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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My 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
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Diagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
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2000 4runner SR5. This problem has been going on for a while, it comes and goes. The truck will start stalling out, sputtering along, then pick right back up. It is like the engine is being choked for gas. It never totally fails, I just lose all engine power for a second or two, then it picks back up. Then, the check engine light will turn on.
I thought the light might be for a gas cap, so I checked that first. Unscrewed the gap and hear a very noticeable "whoosh" air noise, like air getting sucked into the gas tank. After I adjusted the gas cap, the truck starts working as normal, runs great. For a couple weeks or so. Then the same problem. And the same fix has always worked as well - the gas cap trick, thus far, has worked every time (about five times).
I took it to a mechanic and they said the codes are for the throttle and I need a new throttle body for $1500 freakin dollars. I don't doubt the throttle could probably use replacing, but I don't think that's is what is causing this issue. If the throttle was the problem, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem that comes and goes. And why does the gas cap fix work?
Things I have replaced in the few years - fuel filter about a year ago, air filter recently, evap, O2, cat, timing belt, water pump, gas cap (about a month ago). Needless to say, I got a lot of $ into it. Think it could be fuel pump?
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In the last six months I've occasionally seen both the tach and the speedometer slowly peg when I start in the morning. My mechanic says to not worry about it but I do. The car is a 2005 Toyota ECHO with manual transmission.
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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