Toyota - 4runner :: 1996 - Getting Catalytic Converter 420 Code?
Jan 26, 2012
1996 4runner here (187,500miles), with weld in after market cat (on when purchased, with less than 1000 mile on it). started throwing the 420 code beginning of last summer. Replaced both O2 sensors and same results. Was coming on after every 30-40 miles after resetting, replaced wires, plugs, cleaned throttle body started coming on ever 120 miles or so. Now in the middle of winter it has gone 450 miles and still has not come back on?? Does the winter fuel blends in Georgia, or cold more dense air make a difference on cat performance? Still plan to replace it with a direct fit with a warranty but curious if I am overlooking something.
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I recently had the catalytic converter replaced on my 1999 Toyota Corolla and the gas mileage dropped from about 28 mpg to 21 mpg.
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Chk engine light is on. Checked it at Advance Auto and indicated either cat or the O2 sensor (rear). So, I went to replace the O2 sensor and learned the hard way that you can't just unscrew the nut. I torqued off the stud to which the O2 sensor attaches. Muffler shop told me you need to heat up the stud/nut first to remove it. Oh well, lesson learned. So, I'm looking at replacing the pipe with the catalytic converter attached since I can't seem to fix the broken stud (or actually get the one I didn't break off). The problem is, my car is apparently a CA model and has the special cat on it. I live in VA. What sort of problems might I run into if I replaced the cat with a non-CA version? They are significantly less expensive. This is for a 2003 Toyota Siienna
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My Toyota Tundra 2011, driven enough to haul a horse locally (6000 plus miles) is now unable to go above 30 mph, it was fine last week. Toyota dealer says it is both of the air injection units and switch. Of course it is out of warranty 3 months.
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My 2000 Nissan Maxima has a PO430 code for the catalytic converter that has been going on and off for over 1 year now. My ? is, how would I know that the converter needs replacing? Someone said there wouldn't be any smell necessarily, someone else said I would be leaking qts. of oil in between changes and someone else said it would get bad mileage. Each one debunks the others comments etc. Also just for info., this car had the ses light come on at 57K miles, my brother replaced 2 of the O2 sensors and I replaced 2 also, one duplicate one and a mass air flow as well.
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Does this mean the DPF is shot? I believe its integral with the cat. whats worth checking first?
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It came on 2-3 miles after a cold start. 3.6 with 137,000 miles. What's next? First car I've owned that uses very little oil between oil changes.
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Title says it. Cat is done. Threw code p0420 and am experiencing hesitation at WOT. Already replaced my front o2 (cbfa) and now I'm debating whether or not to get a new downpipe. I daily the car and am wondering if keeping the car as is for a while will damage anything. Cts turbo has a sale for a catless downpipe.
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Toyota says the code is P0420 and the Catalytic Converter is rattling under heavy acceleration showing the Catalytic converter is bad and should be replaced. Toyota wants 2,334.00 which seems very high to me. Is it the Catalytic converter? The car is a 2004 Toyota Prius.
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I had my local garage do their electronic check when my check engine light came on. They said the code they got indicated a failed catalytic converter and quoted me $720.00 for a California compliant replacement, including labor. I live in Connecticut. I'd like to take a few days to get a second opinion and second quote, but the garage manager said that driving it in this condition would risk fouling the oxygen sensor, which I recently replaced for a couple hundred bucks.
Should I be concerned about fouling the oxygen sensor by continuing to drive the car? 2000 Toyota Camry...
I looked under the car and the rear attachment bolts to the converter are rusted beyond recognition. I'm tempted to try replacing it myself but it may be a bit beyond my skills.
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That Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
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2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 cylinder dual-overhead cam. My check engine light came on this morning and the code came out as the catalytic converter. The car seems to be running fine, at least no recent changes. I'm debating replacing this vehicle soon, and I'm wondering if it's worth working on the catalytic converter. I recently replaced the cam shaft position sensor as well.
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I checked out a 2006 Prius yesterday a guy is selling. It had the CEL on (not sure why somebody would try and sell a car with that, but anyway). He said that it's because they get gas at a station that consistently doesn't tighten the gas cap enough but by the time the tank is down to 1-2 bars the light always goes away. Although I don't doubt his story, I absolutely doubted the cause. So I took it to get the code pulled and it was P0420, which is catalytic converter threshold below efficiency.
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My wife's car is a 2002 Prius, 149 k miles. Lately the check engine light has been coming on. I took it to the dealership, and their assessment is that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. They are recommending about $2,000 + of repairs. While I am contemplating the practicality of investing that much in keeping this car going I'm wondering if it harmful or dangerous to continue operating this vehicle.
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My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
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So the code reads "warm up catalytic converter efficiency below threshold (bank1)" ?? What it could be?
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2010 f150 with 5.4 catalytic converter. Engine light has been going on and off for the past couple of months. Had the code read and its says bank one catalytic converter. Ford dealer said to replace the 02 sensors. Had that done but light still comes on and off with same code. Could there be something wrong with the sensor or should I just have the CC replaced also. I just don't understand why it would come on for a few days and then not come on for a few days if its the CC?
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Yesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I have a '96 4Runner (4WD V6 SR5) with 215k miles which had been running great until I parked it at work for a week & a half business trip and came back to a dead battery. I jump started it this morning and it ran fine until I disconnected the jumper cables, at which point it immediately started running rough (hesitating, almost dying) and the windshield wipers went to the high setting (they weren't on before) and all the lights on the instrument panel were on (check eng, etc.).
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I have Toyota 4runner 1996 4 cylinder. it was running good (from time to time I would lose power for 2 to 10 second than it go back to normal acceleration). I had the check engine light on for almost 8 month. last week I took the car to mechanic shop for diagnosis. the mechanic changed the spark plugs and after that the engine lost power. the car cannot go over 30 or 35 mile per hour. He changed the spark plugs and put different ones, same thing he put the old ones back same problem, he changed the wires, the fuel filter, air filter, the distributor and rotor, but still the same problem. the problem is that the check engine light is off now and there no codes.
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