Toyota - 4runner :: 1995 - Hesitation Immediately After Acceleration / Bad Fuel Injector?
Mar 7, 2013
My 4Runner has begun hesitating sometimes during acceleration AND immediately after acceleration. It feels like it is "chugging." This usually also happens in the low end of gears (it is a manual 5 speed). I do not believe it is the transmission as I do not notice it slipping at all. It has been 90,000 since the timing belt was changed, which I plan to do soon. Could it be an injector issue? Maybe a cylinder is not firing? The RPMs do not seem to change much when this occurs.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
View 2 Replies
My 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
View 1 Replies
My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
View 9 Replies
I have a 98 Toyota 4Runner, which just started what I'm told is pinging or knocking on "hard accelerations", like accelerating on the merge lane when I see cars coming up behind me in the lane I want to merge into, or going uphill. i have 258,000 miles, and have the SUV serviced regularly and get things fixed when they need it. I told the dealer about it a month ago when I had regular servicing, and he did something to clean the fuel injector, and suggested I try 89 octane (he specifically recommended Sunoco), and if that worked I could try going back to 87 octane (Sunoco was his recommendation again). I did as he suggested, and the pinging/knocking seemed to get better with 89, but returned with 87. I read the Q&A on this, but still have questions. Why did this just start after 14 years? Should I do anything about, in other words is it harmful? If so, what should I do? Does the brand of gasoline have anything to do with this, or anything else for that matter? I am hoping to keep the SUV for a couple more years (300,000 miles), maybe longer.
View 19 Replies
I have Toyota 4runner 1996 4 cylinder. it was running good (from time to time I would lose power for 2 to 10 second than it go back to normal acceleration). I had the check engine light on for almost 8 month. last week I took the car to mechanic shop for diagnosis. the mechanic changed the spark plugs and after that the engine lost power. the car cannot go over 30 or 35 mile per hour. He changed the spark plugs and put different ones, same thing he put the old ones back same problem, he changed the wires, the fuel filter, air filter, the distributor and rotor, but still the same problem. the problem is that the check engine light is off now and there no codes.
View 2 Replies
It was the fuel. I had been experiencing a hesitation when going from a cruising speed...to WOT (wide open throttle) situations. The car would kind of just hang there for a couple of seconds, not really going anywhere. This situation was a bit - I wouldn't call it scary - but I would call it something I needed to be concerned/mindful of when pulling into traffic or switching lanes on a highway, etc....it made you have to take into account how much more space you'd need to do such a maneuver.
Well the problem is gone, it was the fuel. And it was my own fault. I was buying Super one week, then supplementing mid grade the next...mixing the two and lowering the octane level. Plus I was buying the gas at a station that was cheap. My logic was that I drive 600 miles a week...I'm trying to save a few bucks, etc...the guy I bought the car off of said he was doing the same thing with the fuel (and he's a Lexus tech)...and for the most part I didn't notice much of anything in loss of fuel mileage, etc.
The hesitation wasn't something that really bothered me because I usually don't find myself in situations where I have to mash the gas pedal into the floor, but I did want to know why the car was acting like that. After reading through a bunch of threads I came upon one post that said most of the time it's the fuel, but there is a reprogramming procedure as well. For me it was the fuel. I know others have solved an entirely different problem with the quality of their oil (TGMO).
So if you're going with a lesser grade of fuel...yes your miles per gallon won't really change...and no you won't be able to tell much of a difference...but don't be surprised if your car doesn't want to move in hard acceleration situations for a spell (I imagine it's the knock sensors kicking in).
View 14 Replies
I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
View 5 Replies
I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
View 2 Replies
My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
View 11 Replies
fuel & smoke smell when high acceleration and when the window open.
View 1 Replies
cant figur this out have no signal to injectors and no power at fuel pump 88 f150 5-0
View 2 Replies
I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 Replies
We just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner that has 195,000 miles. We bought it for a 4wd vehicle to take over the passes and go hunting, but we have been driving it regularly because we like it. I read in the manual that under heavy idling conditions the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles but it does not say for regular driving. The previous owners had work done on the timing belt at 96,000 miles.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
View 3 Replies
My transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1995 buick roadmaster with 308,000 miles. The car quits intermittently but starts up immediately thereafter. Seems like an electrical issue but it doesn't act like the distributor is malfunctioning or fuel stoppage since it doesn't shudder prior to quitting. I have had the car since new, we love it and would like to keep it.
View 6 Replies
I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
View 1 Replies
I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
View 5 Replies
I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
View 2 Replies
