Toyota - 4runner :: 1990 - Loud Popping Noise From Clutch Area
Jul 25, 2012
I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner with 4wheel drive stick shift and it has been making a loud rrrrrrrrrrrr sound. It seemed like it was coming from the front right wheel or somewhere close to that area, so I checked the brake pads and rotor for rocks or any other object that might have gotten stuck. There was nothing stuck, however I did notice that the boots were ripped. So I changed both front axles and I also replaced the wheel bearing only from where the noise appears to be coming from. The noise is still there. It makes the noise sometimes, if i'm going slow or fast. Other than that, the car drives well.
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Here' the low down. I have a 90 4runner v6 4wd. It is intermittently making a loud rubbing noise in the front right of the truck. It starts randomly and sometimes stops on its own or will start when I hit a bump,it will stop when shifted into 4wd, or when I brake or turn hard to the right. but happens only a portion of the time. took it to mech, he removed front drive shaft and said prob went away, it seemed the vacuum pump or the solenoid that activates shifting out of 4wd is defective. So he manually switched off the 4wd replaced the front shaft and all good! but on my way home the noise began again. super frustrated, 3rd mechanic in a week.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited. For the last three years or so I get a very loud cracking noise from the Radio, I can even turn it off and it continues or gets louder. I took it to the dealer, they think it is some of the speakers. Since are 12 speakers, not sure I want to start replacing them. I thought it might be the amplifier, took to an electronics guys. He took a lot of the car around the radio apart, we could never find the amplifier. I think the amplifier is in the trunk with the GPS Disk Player. If you were going to replace something, would be the radio, amplifier, or? The only way to stop it is to remove the fuse which causes the radio and GPS screen to not work.
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So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping.
I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. What this is or if this is in need of getting fixed? They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
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I experienced the sudden onset of brake failure when driving home from work . The ABS light came on and stayed on and a loud continuous beeping alarm started sounding, and my brakes became non functional. I was fortunately able to bring my car to a halt without injury to self/ car or others. My 2010 4runner has approx. 83000 miles on it, and a local Toyota Dealership has told me that the ABS sensor needs replacement, along with the rear discs, calipers and brakes, seemingly from a simultaneous failure that the service advisor does not report having seen before.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping. I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
Current suggestions:
• Cracked bearing race. It could be another problem entirely having to do with the suspension mounts or axle mounts but let's hope these new mechanics will figure it out.
• Problem with a wheel bearing
• Struts and suspension components
• Bushings and parts
• Loose upper strut center nut or from loose upper strut mounting nuts
I took it back to a shop but they are thinking the sound is actually coming from the body near the roofing area in the right rear portion of the car. They seem to think based on the sound (metal popping only when that wheel is lower (like coming out of a driveway angled, or going over a pothole)) that it is the metal body but it would cost and arm and a leg to get in to even find out what it was. They assured me that it wasn't impacting the safety of the body and is just a funky sound. The sound is much louder in the car than outside which I think kind of supports their theory. Are they right and it won't impact the safety?
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My wifes santa fe 2.0t has been a pain.
When turning the car off a popping noise comes from under the gas tank area. The dealer heard in months ago and said its normal. It's still doing it. What could this be?
I also find that her emissions seems to smell very strong when the car is idling in the lane way and the door is open even when the car is warmed up.
I find her rear suspension really rough as well. When she takes bumps in the road the rear suspension hits them hard causing the car to bang when she hits them.
Her gas mileage is 13.4 regardless of driving lightly in the city.
Maybe im just anal but Is any of this normal?
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I think I heard this noise before but I didn't pay much attention until a few days ago. I thought the garage door makes that noise when I close the door.
When the engine is off, whenever the last door is closed, the popping noise occurs. The noise gets louder if I close the door harder.
When the engine is on, it's the opposite. The first door opened causes the popping noise.
It's a 07GS350AWD.
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Black 4 Door '13
37xx miles
Build date 07/12
No engine mods
I have had the clicking/popping clutch noise since I was breaking in the clutch but i thought it would eventually wear off. I have went through all the transmission threads and seen that a lot of people got it fixed having their clutch pedal assembly or master cylinder replaced.
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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I had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
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Got a 1999 ford f150 2 wheel drive. I have replaced both upper and lower control arms with ball joints on both sides. New shocks, new stablelizer links, new inner and outer tie rod ends. Also, a new steering gear and i still have popping noise coming from both sides around the wheel area when i enter or leave out of drive ways, turning, or running in a hole. Doesn't do in going straight. I don't know what else to do. Driving me insane. I keep spending money on this truck and still where i first started.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
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I installed a new motor in a 1990 chevy Silverado about 5 months ago. every time i start it there is a loud clunky noise which goes away after about 1 or 2 minutes.I took apart the exhaust.. why does #2 cylinder have rust on the exhaust port not black soot?
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