Toyota - 4runner :: 1990 - Fumes In Cabin?
Mar 25, 2013
I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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Well I started smelling Gas fumes in the cabin of my 11 GLS. The smell was intermittent for about a month now. Then last weekend it started getting bad. I found it only smelled when pulling fresh air through the HVAC, so it had to be under the hood. Pulled the engine cover to find the foam backing was soaked with gas. Started the car and could see the Hard fuel line dripping.
I saw from other post on the forum that this tube has one time use fitting on both ends and that a special tool is needed to torque the fittings. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and they are replacing the line today.
I tell you all this because the Dealer said that their records show my car had the short block replaced at 24000 miles. When replaced they probably didn't torque the line correctly causing it to leak.
The question I have is, Should I be more or less worried about the bottom end of this engine now that I know it has been replaced? The car has 44000 miles on it now.
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My mom has a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan. For the last six months the car has the distinct smell of engine fumes in the cabin. The smell becomes more prevalent whenever the fan is running (A/C or not). She has constantly been back and forth to the dealer but to no avail. The smell is there are idle or just driving around and requires a window to be opened for fear of passing out.
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I have been getting exhaust in my car cabin since last fall. It is worst when I first start up the engine. Once I get driving, it's not so bad. Switching off the heat or recirculating the air does nothing to change things. I used a CO detector in the cabin and the alarm didn't go off, but it still worries me that I might be breathing in carbon monoxide. And none of the shops have been able to diagnose it, let alone fix it. The first shop installed a new 'flex pipe'. The dealer thinks it's coming from a gasket near the flex pipe. The exhaust manifold is not cracked. A muffler shop said there was no leak. Is it possible that exhaust is somehow getting mixed into the air via a faulty valve or vent?
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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I have a 2010 with 5k miles - bought <4 mos.
Last week, I started noticing a petroleum smell in the cabin. I've also had trouble with the inside windshield. When I tried it wipe it, it just smeared. Finally, I used some cleanser and it's clear. It took several applications to work.
I read in the Gen II forums about a loose oil filter cap. I checked mine today. I was able to turn it about 1/2 inch. Now, I'm getting headaches after I drive for more than 15 minutes or so. I've tried switching the circulation but I can't tell which way is better.
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I have been having an issue with exhaust fumes in my 13 GT (16,000 miles on it). I am positive its from the exhaust. Its definitely the "rotten egg" smell, not raw gasoline. I don't hear any leaks though.
It only happens when going up a hill when the engine is under more load than usual or under heavy acceleration. I am going to call the dealer about it and have them look at it.
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with about 135,000 miles on it with a fume problem. Once it's warm, I'm noticing what smells like exhaust fumes in the cabin when stopped or at low speed (not at highway speed.) It runs perfectly otherwise. I took it in a few months ago (before I noticed the correlation with engine temp), and the mechanic could not replicate the problem, and he said there was no exhaust leak, I now suspect this is because he only tested it cold.
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I have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
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Here' the low down. I have a 90 4runner v6 4wd. It is intermittently making a loud rubbing noise in the front right of the truck. It starts randomly and sometimes stops on its own or will start when I hit a bump,it will stop when shifted into 4wd, or when I brake or turn hard to the right. but happens only a portion of the time. took it to mech, he removed front drive shaft and said prob went away, it seemed the vacuum pump or the solenoid that activates shifting out of 4wd is defective. So he manually switched off the 4wd replaced the front shaft and all good! but on my way home the noise began again. super frustrated, 3rd mechanic in a week.
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'90 Maxima 256k.....recently I've noticed exhaust coming in through the vents when I have the AC on and have been idling or driving in slow traffic. I know I have a small exhaust manifold leak because I hear the clicking. The problem is this exhaust smell happens very intermittently. Usually on hot humid days when I have the AC on. I have tried to duplicate the issue to no avail. Sometimes I can sit in a parking lot at idle with the AC on for 30 minutes and I don't smell any exhaust (not even when I smell under the hood). How can this be? If it truly was an exhaust leak then it would leak all the time and I would smell it. Could my EGR valve be leaking? When the EGR valve is activated?
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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