Toyota - 4runner :: 1990 - Floods On Hot Start / Strong Smell Of Gas
Jun 6, 2011
I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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I drive a 2007 Toyota 4Runner. Recently the weather has been nice enough to drive with the windows open. I've noticed a very strong ammonia smell from the exhaust - so strong at times, that I have to roll up the windows and use the a/c. I use Shell gas with no ethanol, but it has a nitrogen additive. Is it the gas I'm using, or is there something wrong with the vehicle? It's definitely ammonia, and I can only smell it while I'm driving.
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I had my passenger side window replaced, and the car now has a strong smell of adhesive. I have left the windows open for a week, and the smell just gets stronger.
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I have a 2011 GTI (stock - no mods) and noticed in the past two weeks or so a gas smell. The past few days it will be strong at start up after sitting for a few hours. I brought it to the dealer and they did not find any issues. After long drives, the odor is not present.
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Yesterday, after having driven the car twice, I got in it to move it, and it would not start. It almost turns over, but never reaches a start, until the dash prompts me to to STOP. I also notice a stong gasoline smell when I get out of the car. What this might be?
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I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette which has been a great car, but due to its age has had some issues in the past year. The most recent is that it does not start well. When I turn the key, it chugs but I have to push the gas to get it to start and then there is a very strong fuel smell. We had it "tuned up" recently, but that did not work ( in fact the starting has gotten worse).
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We've had a run of -20 to -40 weather here for the past few weeks.
A few weeks back I noticed that when I climbed into my truck after command-start warm up for 10 minutes, and I could smell strong exhaust.
I figured it was hopefully the wind, or an isolated event.
Over the past few weeks I've used my truck for 3-4 more around town runs and every time I warm it up I get the strong exhaust smell. It's that rich, eye watering, sickening exhaust smell. I also notice a small yellow frozen puddle under the exhaust tips that wasn't there before.
It's bad in the cab, but even walking around outside the truck and the smell is sickening. I actually just started the truck and I could actually smell the exhaust smell faintly, from inside my house! This has never before occurred. Prior to this, a person could hardly tell it was a diesel by the smell of the exhaust.
Once the truck is up to temperature the smell seems to disappear, or at least lessen.
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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A few months ago I purchased a 2.7l toyota 4runner 1999 with about 144k from original owner. A few weeks later, the vehicle won't start. when I turned the key in the ignition, nothing happens. my mechanic from toyota dealership have checked or changed everything; the relay, battery, starter, switch module and neutral switch sensor. What it might be and how I can get it fixed?
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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My 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
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Diagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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I have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
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