My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
View 1 RepliesMy rear window defogger has stopped working. The owners manual, page 316, has the 3 fuse box locations and it says there is a 40 amp fuse in location #2 in fuse box under dash (says there is a 30 amp in location #1 for power windows). When I popped the cover off the fuse box and looked - there are NO fuses greater that 25 amps anywhere. Windows work fine. in addition - none of the actual fuse numbers line up with what the manual says or with what the inside of the fuse box cover says.
View 8 RepliesRear window was replaced now the defogger does not work.
View 1 RepliesI am not sure, since now, that my RWD has ever worked, the fuse is fine, the light comes on, the lines on the window are not broken. No defogging. Connections seem good everywhere.
View 5 RepliesA couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
The key fob for my 2006 Toyota Camry stopped working. I replaced the battery twice with new ones and it still doesn't work.
I bought a replacement key fob from Amazon and followed the instructions (along with the youtube video) many times to re-program the new key fob and it didn't work.
A few days ago my speedometer stopped working. Then yesterday all of my gauges stopped working, as well as my turn signals. If this is a fuse issue then which fuse it is?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 RepliesI now have a 2002 Camry and the left rear turn signal has stopped working. When I put the signal on, it flashes about twice as fast inside and in the front, but nothing in the back. I replaced the bulb but it still didn't work. I'm going to switch the bulb here with the right one and see if it's still good just to be sure. Anyway, the rear left flasher doesn't work either. I've had turn signals be fuse related before but not when it's just one signal that's not working. Live in the city and driving without it is no good.
View 5 Replies247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
I have an 07 Camry SE V6 with auto dimming rear and side view mirrors that just stopped working. I've checked the fuses and everything is ok - where to look next?
View 14 RepliesI have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
In my 2002 Highlander, the top cluster of my center console controls (clock, hazard lights, passenger seatbelt warning, cycle air button, A/C button, rear defrost) have not been working for about two and a half weeks. It's been on my radar, but I hadn't had time to take it in yet. Drove fine, A/C worked, all of that – mostly just the clock was an inconvenience.
Two weekends ago, my battery died. Took it in, Advance checked it out and topped off the fluids, cleaned corrosion and sent me on my way – said the corrosion might just be shorting it out (it was bad), but that while the battery was old (4.5yrs) it might still be fine, so to try that and come back in 100 miles or so before buying a new battery.
Worked fine that week, died this past Saturday. Went in to get a replacement battery, had it put in, all good. Chugged a little on the first start after the battery was installed, had them check the starter/alternator, they were fine. Started normal after the first time.
Went to leave, and noticed my air conditioning was now coming out of the defrost, instead of the forward setting I left it on. Long story short, now that dial doesn't work, and I can't change the airflow direction. (Something with the battery resetting the switch to the default).
The temperature control still seems to work – it doesn't get quite as cold as it did (not sure if that's a new issue as well, or just how the defrost portion works). I can also still change the strength of the air blowing out – basically, the other two A/C controls work, I just can't change WHERE it's blowing out.
My guess was that it would be fuse-related, but I checked all the fuses that I could tell from the manual might have something to do with the A/C (or the center console controls I mentioned), and none looked blown/broken. What I could look for?
My rear defogger stopped working this week. Just checked the fuse and that's still good. Where should i go from here?
View 1 RepliesWe've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
View 7 RepliesI tinted my Prius v's rear hatch window with SunTek CXP film yesterday morning. When driving at night with the tinted window, there are streaks of glare along rear defogger lines caused by the headlights behind me.
For v owner with tinted hatch window.
Both of my FOBs stopped working. I replaced both batteries and they still don't work. Dealer says I have to replace the FOBs, but why would both stop working at the same time. I thought it might either be a programming problem or a sensor problem.
View 2 RepliesOne side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
View 2 RepliesPassenger side window has stopped working - the regulator was replaced about a year ago and I have tested it directly from the battery and it works up & down. I thought it unusual to have the drivers side and passenger side window switches to fail at the same time - is there a common relay I should find and replace - I am looking for a common circuit that both switches might travel through to this window motor.
View 3 Replies