Toyota :: 1994 Pickup Clutch Will Go Straight To The Floor When Press It / Sometimes Even Stick
Sep 24, 2012
I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup DLX 3.0 V6 5spd. I love this truck to death since I inherited it from my grandfather.. however, I have a small problem. Whenever the truck sits for about 3 days without being driven; when I go to drive it the next morning, the clutch will go straight to the floor when I press it. Sometimes it'll even stick. After pumping it about 20 times (it's hydraulic) it'll be fine. It hasn't always done this. The clutch fluid level is fine.
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I have a 1995 Infiniti G20. I was driving and everything was fine when my clutch went straight to the floor. It was incredibly arduous to pull back up, now the clutch is very stiff, almost impossible to push down. What could the problem be?
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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So last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
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I've been driving manual 12 years, all my driving life, and been in 10+ manual vehicles during that time, including a 10+ year stint in a 1.8T Passat with a 5-speed.
In all that time, and all those experiences, I've never replaced a clutch, damaged a clutch, or had one problem. In fact, I consider myself a very good operator of the manual transmission.
This is preface to my current situation. 2009 Tiguan (early build) 2.0T 6M, driving at 57mph in 6th gear - downshift to 4th to pass a truck and WHAM. Grinding, confusion, and then the clutch pedal stuck straight to the floor. Glide to a stop on the side of the bayou road.
Totally immobile vehicle. Impossible to shift into gear, or get the pedal off the floor except by pulling. Smell of acrid smoke.
VW dealership says "we're doing a courtesy warranty repair" on the clutch, flywheel and bearings, as if it's my fault. Impossible. This is a mechanical defect if I ever saw one.
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I have a funky screaming noise coming from my clutch when I press the clutch in down to the floor if I don't press it to the floor it doesn't make noise
and car still drives fine what is this noise. It makes a noise like when you over start the car it's weird. I never heard anything like this before is it a new clutch. I need or new throw out bearing of do I need to breed the clutch?
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Pulled out of street this morning and as I was shifting into 3rd my clutch pedal went straight to the floor boards. I was able to keep it in 2nd gear and get it back to my driveway . The pedal will only go straight to floor or goes straight up too the bottom of dash board. It's spring loaded. Am I dealing with a linkage issue?. I had clutch as I pulled out of my driveway and stopped go at the stop sign. Plus I was able to drive it back too my house with the pedal on the floor boards. Where I should look first?
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The temperature gauge on the dashboard is jumping around after the car warms up. It rapidly goes from cold to normal in an unpredictable pattern. It never goes over the middle. I have had both the engine and the radiator replaced in the past year!
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Truck has many issues, among them loose steering. I took it in for a checkup, and it needs a new steering gear. How difficult are they to replace?
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We had to jump start the truck and my buddy hooked up jumper cables wrong on his truck so I'm hoping the computer isn't fried. I turn the key and the only things that work are the door dinger and the dome light. Nothing on the gauge cluster and no radio. Dead silent when I turn the key to crank.
1994 toyota pickup 22re....
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My son has a 1994 Toyota Pick Up, and it suddenly developed a rattle noise, but only when he is accelerating. I suggested he check for loose heat shields, or a broken engine mount, fan rubbing on radiator housing, but all of this is good. He had a new timing chain put in 30,000 miles ago, and a new clutch. It has 167,000 miles on it. The oil does not have flakes or coolant. It does not make the noise when not in gear and accelerating. Could it be u-joints? He said is sounds like it is coming from the Lft Front, not the undercarriage. Fuel injected. does not overheat, or lug, or lack power.
2wd. 5sd tranny.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM's started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch..
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I traded in my 2009 passat CC GT TDI and drove away in my spanking new phaeton full of smiles now after owning it for three weeks that has turned to a as its let me down four times and now yesterday after failing on my drive way was collected by the garage and taken back to the dealership for investigation.
The problem is when the car is cold sometimes it gets stuck in park. The symptom is the car starts fine and with the foot on the brake the green light goes on the dash and the light by the stick but im unable to press in the silver thumb button so i can select a gear. I can feel the the solenoid through the gear shift operate but the button still wont go in.
The car has only traveled lest than 1000 miles. I am really disappointed as you can imagine having saved up a lot of money to buy this luxury car. I know the garage will get it sorted but am I alone in having this problem.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?
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I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
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My 1994 Ford Ranger, V6, 4 L, 4 wheel drive, 161k miles, standard(stick) has been lurching while accelerating, and going up an incline even without load. It seems to lurch more if the RPMs are under 3K. But now, its starting to lurch even at or a little above 3k RPMs I have replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the air filter, used Heat thinking it was water in the tank, changed my plugs and wires and it didn't fix the problem. Im curious If I cracked a plug while putting it in or that a plug isn't connected all the way. But if it's not that, what could be causing this issue. Im nervous that if not fixed, it will break something.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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I've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
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