1994 Toyota pickup... Engine misses intermittently both at idle and throughout rpm range. Cap and rotor clean,plugs read nice light brown fuel burn color- would injector cleaner in gas work.....
View 3 Replies1994 corvette auto trans, when car is parked or in drive with foot on the brake will start to idle up, the back down and like lunge forward if in drive and foot on the brake. Then if you drive it, and step on it, it will miss fire. My mechanis put it on his scanner but it showed no problems. The opti- spark, wires, plugs were replaced 2 years ago and 12,000 miles ago.
View 8 RepliesI have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesPeriodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?
My wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
I just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesRecently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
My 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
View 6 RepliesMy 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 Nissan Altima is a great little car with an unknown number of miles, though my best estimate is around 150k. Every time the air conditioner compressor kicks in it drags the engine down significantly when at idle, and often causes the belt to squeal. The squeal is most notable while accelerating. My question is, since the belt is relatively new do I have a tensioner problem, a compressor problem, or something else?
View 4 RepliesI own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
View 2 RepliesWe have an 04 GX-470. Most of the time the fuel gauge and the range readout work OK. However, sometimes, the fuel gauge works, but the range shows 0 miles, or they both don't work - fuel gauge shows empty and range = 0. My wife says she thinks she's seen the gauge = empty but the range still showing xxx miles - I haven't seen that.
We've been to 2 different Lexus dealers, paid for diagnostics at both and gotten no fix. In fact, they have both said they can't find anything wrong.
To my way of thinking, these would both get their initial information from the same source - some sort of sender unit on the fuel tank. However, as both gauges do not always go out together, I'm inclined to think that this probably isn't the cause. I would think that the range readout comes from some calculations done by the onboard computer.