Toyota :: 1990 - Truck Radiator Runs Dry All The Time
Feb 23, 2013
I have a 1990 Toyota pick up and, even though I have had the radiator removed and tested twice for leaks, I still loose fluid. I drive 30 miles - after having filled the radiator to the top - and then find it empty. The overflow radiator fluid bottle is always full to the top but the radiator will not stay full. My radiator man has told me to place a large piece of cardboard under the car to see if there are any leaks - there are non. I pay more in coolant than I do in fuel!
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the radiator fan runs always with key on. Since it is driven only up to 10- 15 miles and Honolulu is warm I haven't been too diligent in finding the problem. Will it wear the fan motor out prematurely (110 K on engine)?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla and the Radiator fan comes on when the car is started and it does not turn off until engine is turned off.
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Over the last few weeks, I'd been smelling something. Today, I realized it must have been coolant. Today, my 225,000 mile, 2.3L 4cyl 5spd 1990 Camry started blowing smoke. When I parked, and gingerly touched the radiator, it was cool -- and empty. When I squeezed the upper hose, it crackled as if very dry. I drove the car about a mile and parked it at home.
When it cooled, I confirmed the radiator is empty -- except for a lot of reddish crud. A hint of the same reddish color on other engine parts MAY be from coolant spraying under the hood, but I'm not sure.
I couldn't tell from spots on the garage floor whether the coolant had leaked out there or not.
How should I proceed from here to address ... a) the leak, and b) any other damage caused by running the car dry?
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My wife had the misfortune of the horn sounding each time the signal was turned on. Solved problem by not using signal... However, the horn still went off after the truck had been turned off for an extended period of time (long enough for her to leave and not hear the horn until returning a couple hours later). She was able to stop the horn by placing the vehicle in neutral (manual transmission). I have not been able to reproduce the problem. I thought it may be the "relay integration", but after removing this from the vehicle the signal does not work, but the horn still works. Is there a relay, switch, etc. that controls both of these devices?
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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My 1990 f250 a/c has freon, and the compressor runs when i turn on the a/c but i get no cold air.
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Yesterday after driving my 1990 Integra ~ 25 min (Fwy), upon parking at the Farmers Market, I noticed the Fan running, which it usually NEVER does, unless there are impending issues (like in the past, when I needed a new radiator). I also noticed a weird smell, and even a stronger than usual gas smell coming from near the engine area, but thought it could have been from other cars near me that were coming and going.
This morning I opened the radiator cap and found the liquid slightly low, but there was still stuff in the overflow reservoir.There are not ANY signs of leakage under the car, but I now think the smell I noticed yesterday WAS radiator fluid. The hoses all look fine and the radiator is only a year or so old.
FYI, I tried to search Radiator queries under Repair and Maint. and the "ask a question " section, but it is not giving me the BLUE links that I USED TO GET, (as in others on the forum who posted radiator problems), but rather the links are RED now, and when I click on them, it often comes up as UNTRUSTED site, so I don't want to go there! Maybe the format has changed and it is ALL like this?
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.
Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.
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I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?
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The radiator fan on my '11 Escape only runs on high. When the car is cold, the radiator fan does not come on. But as it warms up, the fan does seem to come on at the right time. But when it does, it is pretty loud and runs very fast. I assume it's running on high, because I don't recall whether or not there is a low. Both fans appear to be running, so I'm thinking both fan relays are good. Perhaps the main relay (30C) has gone bad?
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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I am not sure what is going on .......My 2004 Prius ICE runs all the time now , the fan on my HV runs a lot too .......temps are 106 degree plus now. I have no check engine dash light yet. My scangauge race thru a bunch of codes. I have Engineer 4kw v6 installed too.
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I noticed that my A/C runs all the time. Is this normal for an Ex? I'm wondering if it's the result of the after market DRL that were installed.
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It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
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Just got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
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The Speedometer cable in the car has been squeaking for A LONG time. I think maybe it's lost its lubrication. Needle jumps around a bit at fwy speeds, but still works fine, other than the annoying squeal. I know I could just have the whole speedometer removed and replaced, but to me it's an expense I'd rather save for when it actually breaks, if it ever does. It is not a Dangerous situation in my mind. How would I find where to actually see if the housing is cracked, or is this difficult for someone with limited skills?
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My 2000 Windstar cooling fan on the passenger side is running all the time when I am driving, even in freezing temperature. My gas mileage goes from 18 to 13 now.
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I've been experiencing this problem ever since I bought my '90 C1500 305 but its recently gotten worse. After long trips (over 100 mi) the truck refuses (will not even crank) to start for at least 5 minutes following shutdown. Now, it will intermittently not start for 15 minutes following shutdown after shorter (~10 mi) trips unless it gets a jump, which is strange considering the battery is not run down.
I first thought it was a bad contact in the ignition cylinder, but I noticed that the batt voltage would always droop when turning the key to start, so I guess that the ignition is being applied. Now I'm wondering if the starter motor might be bad?
It's a weird problem to have, I am 100% certain the truck will start if its cold. But after a long trip it just flat out refuses, will not even crank.
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