Toyota :: 1989 - Grinding Noise Coming From The Brakes
Sep 12, 2011
I replaced the pads and rotors on my 1989 toyota camry yesterday. Took it out for a test drive and all appeared to be OK. I did not bleed the brakes, but did have to remove a small amount of brake fluid after installing everything.
On my way into work this morning there was quite a bit of grinding noise coming from the brakes. The noise was not consistent, happening both while brakes were depressed and also when not in use. It also would go away after a few minutes and didn't always happen while braking.
I'm thinking the piston may be locking up at times, but don't know. I'll also throw out there that this is my first brake job. I did follow my Haynes manual and don't think I did anything wrong.
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Just got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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So I have every so often been hearing a grinding noise coming from what I believe is my back brakes (only does it when I brake). It isn't every time I brake but it does seem to happen almost every time I back up out of my spot initially and touch the brakes. It happens almost everytime I brake when driving at a reasonable speed. Tiggy has like 53,000 on it.
I have looked online and I just don't have the tools or access to a garage to do them myself so I think I am going to have to bring it in. Any rough estimate of what it is going to cost me? Also, I just bought this used on 7/5/14, I was under the impression in California that they can't sell a car with having brakes that are this worn.
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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I have a 89 Ranger, 2.3, 2wd, Mazda 5 spd. Last year, 10,000 miles ago, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl, and pilot bearing. Today, it started making a terrible grinding sound/vibration when you let off the gas. The noise is coming from the clutch/transmission area. It is so bad that any amount of "engine braking" sounds terrible and I have to press the clutch in and the noise immediately stops. What to check for?
The only thing I can think of off the cuff is
1) bad pilot bearing,
2) low/no tranny oil. I replaced the oil and put silicone on the known leaky spots while I had the tranny out,
3) Input shaft had some "wobble" in it when I had the tranny out to replace clutch 10,000 miles ago.
This could be it but why would it start 10k miles later?
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My 1989 Buick Regal is making a grinding sound when I accelerate. It makes the sound slightly when it's just idling as well, but it definitely gets worse when I start going. It's been dying a bunch too. The engine will just shut off. The scariest part though, is when I pop the hood and have a look, there are shards of metal that I can only assume have been ground off, thus the grinding noise. It's near the belt, but that's all I really know because I'm not car smart at all.
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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We have a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 170k miles. The brakes are squeaking and grinding often. In Feb. the front brake pads were replaced, but the noises continued. In May, they replaced the front pads again, within a week the grinding and squeaking continued. Finally, I took the car in late July and had the mechanic drive the car around. He said the back brakes were making the "grinding" noise and the front was squeaking. He said it was "cheap brake parts". When he looked at the brakes he said the back brakes needed adjusting and may not be working as well, therefore making the front brakes work hard. This caused the front brakes to get hot and develop a glaze. He adjusted the back brakes and scratched up the front brakes. The car was fine for about 2 weeks or so. The sounds have gotten progressively worse and I refuse to drive the car. The brakes seem to work, but the sound is so terrible like something is loose, or off and scraping metal. We have used this mechanic for years with a recommendation from our neighbors.
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Yesterday morning, as I backed out of my short driveway, I felt a grinding and then felt a thunk on the passenger side when I applied the brakes. Why would my new Venza[~5401 miles] have this? The dealer didn't feel it during a drive and couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes on inspection. The dealership claimed it was due to rust. I don't buy it. Why would new brakes rust and why would Toyota make brakes that rust?
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I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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Replaced both rear calipers about 4 months ago, both were frozen. A few weeks ago I started getting some bad squeaking from the front brakes. The front calipers seemed fine when I did the rears.
Tonight I had even more fun with the beast. Drove to my sons baseball game and felt an odd "grinding" when braking. *Seems* to be coming from the front. On the way home, the grinding was worse and then the fun really started. Hit the brakes and the wheels started hopping enough to shake the whole friggin' truck. Leaving from a light, you could feel the brakes stick and then release, next stop was more shake n bake.
Not sure where to start on this one.
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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My 2003 windstar SEL needed new brakes and to have the rotors turned... instead I opted to buy new discs and pads online ... To my surprise the new discs were about a 16th of an inch thinner than the old.... I changed discs and pads and was happy for a few days, but now on occasion when coming to a stop the front brakes grind terribly....the next time i stop everything is fine...visa versa...dscs feel true (no pulsing) I DID APPLY BRAKE QUIET TO THE BACKS OF PADS....
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My mom has a c-3, today while she was out, pulled out of a parking lot at slow speed, went to stop at the traffic light and all she hear was a 'grinding' noise and had no brakes. Luckily she has thinking ability and used the parking brake to stop. She pulled off when able but then the brakes were fine. I'm a gen III driver.
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Just bought some new tires (Michelin Pilot Exalta A/S) and we've been getting a lot of rain/snow in Chicago and I'm just thinking its the brakes getting wet and kind of rusting. I drive local and less than 1 mile every other day. When I brake it sounds like the brakes are grinding. Almost like the sound your brakes make after a heavy rain fall and when your car sits for the day. It grinds a bit.
That's what my guess is. The tires are new and have a little noise when slowing down and turning slow. Basically I know I don't need new brakes. Just checked them about a month ago.
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I have a grinding noise coming from what I believe are the front brakes. It happens when I apply the brakes and sounds like the brake pad is worn out and there's metal-on-metal contact but when I checked the pads, they are at 80-90% (rears have about the same amount left). I hear it the loudest just before coming to a full stop, from about 20 mph down to stop. I thought it was caused by rust on the brakes but after I wore off the rust, the sound is still there.
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My car came back from the shop yesterday with new brakes and pads and seems to be making some odd noises, both at low speeds and while breaking. I called the shop this morning and they said that this sound was normal for awhile but to come back in a week if it persists. Is this sound advice, or should I be driving my car right back to the shop?
2005 Hyundai Tucson 122,000 miles
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Is it just me or is this an ABS thing? during a snow storm i was going about 25mph and had applied the breaks and started making a grinding noise... if it is the abs how are you suppose to work with the response time for a quicker stop.
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