Toyota :: 1986 - Loud Humming That Comes And Goes
Dec 6, 2011
I have a problem with my 1986 Toyota 4X4 pickup for over four years now,the problem is a noise from the front end that occurs when hubs are in Locked position a loud humming that comes and goes, I can hit the brakes hard and it goes away for a few seconds, I can hit a bump and it goes away for a few seconds, I can take a sharp turn and it goes away for a few seconds. This woowoowoo or hum only happens when the hubs are locked not when they are in the free position, I cannot shift in 4wd and make it go away for a few seconds, the noise gets worse the faster I go, it also gets worse the colder the weather is. I have replaced the axles twice and the front diff once and still has a noise, I have checked the wheel bearings for play and they are fine, I have repacked the hubs with fresh grease, the sound, sounds like metal to metal friction.
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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I am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
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I have a 1986 bmw325 es. When I drive on the freeway or even in town my car sounds like a bi-plane, a loud roaring noise. A friend of mine suggested that it could be the tires. I took my car into a tire place yesterday and after riding with me, they think I need a new front hub assembly to replace the front wheel bearing. When I called a mechanic he said I should only put in a bmw part, not an after-market assembly. I called another mechanic and he said that bmw parts are made in Germany by not necessarily by BMW. In any case, to you think I should pay more for a bmw/German-made part instead of an after market part. The tire company was going to put in an Citrix assembly, whic his an after-market part.
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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My '86 Toy overheated, I added coolant and oil and it worked fine on one short trip. The next time I tried to start it, the starter cranks and cranks, no start and air bubbles are going into coolant reservoir. What's wrong? Mechanic pushing new engine, but it ran fine after overheating. I don't believe I need an engine.
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So we have had problems with the starter (and flywheel?) since we acquired the truck, these problems being that when we would go to start the car, it would make a horrible "grinding" noise a few times, but would eventually start up. Recently, the car would not start at all, and made no noise when the key was turned. Called AAA, they gave us a jump, and the truck started again. Assuming the problem was then with the battery, we replaced it as well as both terminals. The truck would still not start after doing this, no noise at all when key turned. My questions then would be, if the battery is not the problem, why did the truck start after we had a jump? I'm thinking it might be the starter, and if the starter was shot, would the truck have no sign of life when the ignition was turned on? Should i try and change the starter or is there possibly another variable? 1986 auto Toyota Pickup....
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I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?
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Issues with my '86 Toyota MR2... So, I just recently bought this car earlier this year and it's always seemed to be giving me problems. One of the major ones is that the engine is always dying. When it first did this a couple times after I bought it, my dad and I assumed it was the alternator(we figured it couldn't be the battery because the battery that was in it was relatively new, but we took it to Auto Zone to check the volts on it anyways, and it was all good; we did get the alternator checked also and the guy said it was the alternator), so, we bought a new alternator and my dad and I replaced it. About a week or two later, it started back up with the issue. Whether I was stopped at a red light, slowing down, or making a turn, the engine would die. So, whenever I'm at a red light, I'll put the E-brakes on or put the car in neutral and just get the RPMs up, but shortly after I rev it up, it'll stall. And I try pushing the clutch in all the way, majority of the time, it doesn't make a difference and dies anyway.
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I have noticed a loud humming sound coming from the truck when I have the AC on. Also you can feel the vibration as well. I turn off the AC and it goes away. All this happens on an infrequent behavior but does happen daily. what gives?
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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Our car is a 2003 2.2L 4 Door. 132,000 miles.
About 3 days ago it started doing this thing where once we hit somewhere between 30-40 mph, it started making a low pitch humming sound. At 40 MPH+ it is very loud. To me it sounds like an airplane, I don't know how else to explain it. There is no shaking, though sometimes I can almost feel the vibration from the humming at my feet. My husband says that the higher the RPM's, the louder and slightly higher pitched the sound is. If we go below 30 MPH it stops.
We were a little late on our oil change and I assumed that was it, but got it changed today and it's still doing it. Other than that, about 2 and a half weeks ago, our rear driver side tire went flat. My husband was in the middle of no where on the way home from work so he used Slime and that fixed it (never went to get it repaired because we didn't have the time and it didn't go flat again).
Could it be that the tires are not balanced correctly because of that, and it is causing the humming?
Also, this may be completely unrelated but: The only other problem we have had/still have with the car is that about 2 years ago we drove from Texas to Nevada, and at one of our stops the coolant dumped out (did not overheat/no other issues). Took it to 2 different shops and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Drove fine until 6 months ago driving from Nevada to New Mexico, it did it again, but this time it also overheated. The mechanic said it was the water pump. Replacing the water pump (which is expensive!) did not fix it, so without consulting us they also changed the thermostat. Charged us for both, told us it was fixed, and about 2 month ago it did it again, but did not overheat/no other issues again. Hasn't done it since...seems it only happens on long drives. Anyway, I don't think it's related, but I thought I'd mention it.
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I am hearing this buzzing sound in my trunk its really loud for ex: those annoying sounds people played as kids that people over "18" cant hear...back to the point its by my rear left tail light inside that area where all the wiring is also kinda hear it where the spare tire is all my lights work I unplugged the light and it still made the sound! It only does it when the car is running. Car is stock aside that it has no radio and the cd changer in the area that noise is coming from idk if its because a few wires that connect to the cd changer or what ever it is are unplugged but its coming from that area of the car its really high pitch and annoying.
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This is a question about a Subaru Outback, but probably pertains to many other cars as well. I have a 2006 Subaru Outback with 112K miles. I bought new tires for it in May 2012, and in September 2013 I started to notice a low humming/buzzing sound while driving. I looked online and came up with 2 options - either the wheel bearings or the tires. Because the sound changed pitch depending on the road surface, I thought it must be the tires. I took it in for an oil change and had the mechanics check the bearings. They said the bearings were fine, but the tires were cupping and feathering badly because I hadn't rotated them, and that was the source of the noise.
I had them rotate the tires and do an alignment and went on my way. The sound slowly got worse - it peaks at ~65 MPH and then changes pitch above 70 MPH and is not so bothersome - and I started to lose gas mileage ( 4-5 MPG). On Dec. 30, 2013 I took it in for the next oil change and bought brand new tires - Bridgestone Turanza Serenity designed for quietness - and had them do an alignment, and drove away only to find that the noise is still there and I still have lousy gas mileage.
My next thoughts were the transmission or the catalytic converter, but since the noise doesn't change when I take my foot off the gas or put it in neutral I don't think it is either one of those. The alignment showed that the Caster on both front tires is off, but since both tires are off by roughly equal amounts I was told that this is not something to worry about. I do occasionally notice some vibration while driving or while idling, but it is intermittent and I don't think it has anything to do with the noise.
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B6 manual, after 20k miles with Dunlop Sport Maxx 235-40-18 tires (still pleny of tread left, even on fronts) a moderately loud humming noise has developed, loudest at 35 mph but even heard at 10mph, with an irritating resonance of subwoofer-type. Noise changes somewhat with road surface, but not much. Not related to engine speed, gearbox, or radio. My next step will be to swap wheels.
For now, any thoughts as to the cause?
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For a few months, when the AC is running for a little while, it would hum loudly. If I turned the AC off, after a few minutes, it would stop. When I turned it back on, a few minutes after running again, it would start that loud humming again. While driving down the freeway this evening, my AC stopped blowing. When the car is in idle and the AC is turned on, you can hear something trying to "run", but no air comes out. What this could be?
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I have a 1981 240 Wagon with 182K miles on it. When I reach 45-55 MPH on the highway the car starts to hum and roar. It is not horrible by any means but it has gotten louder over time and now the car kind of vibrates. At 60mph it stops and quiets down. Now I am unsure if I have a turbo or not and I feel like that could just be the turbo mechanism kicking in but I am not sure.
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Not sure if my 13' rx350 is haunted. Went in the garage (car had been sitting for hrs) and heard this pound humming. Checked everything in the garage and kneel down near driver side /passenger door and could hear the humming coming from under the car. Checked to see if the radiator fan was running ..nope. This has occurred on 2 occasions that I know as it seems to be random so I am concerned if I take it to dealer I'll get the "can't duplicate"...
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