Toyota :: 1986 - Grinding Noise A Few Times But Would Eventually Start Up
Aug 31, 2012
So we have had problems with the starter (and flywheel?) since we acquired the truck, these problems being that when we would go to start the car, it would make a horrible "grinding" noise a few times, but would eventually start up. Recently, the car would not start at all, and made no noise when the key was turned. Called AAA, they gave us a jump, and the truck started again. Assuming the problem was then with the battery, we replaced it as well as both terminals. The truck would still not start after doing this, no noise at all when key turned. My questions then would be, if the battery is not the problem, why did the truck start after we had a jump? I'm thinking it might be the starter, and if the starter was shot, would the truck have no sign of life when the ignition was turned on? Should i try and change the starter or is there possibly another variable? 1986 auto Toyota Pickup....
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During the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
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I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. Just reached 200,000 miles this past Sunday. I did a cold start this morning and there was a grinding, metallic noise from under the hood. I turned the key bafk because it didn't sound good. Turned the key again and it started like normal and ran fine. I had a new starter installed last Thursday and now I'm wondering where this noise is coming from. Before I changed my starter, I had the bad starter symptoms in the last two weeks, slow to crank over, the whining airplane noise (happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks). But now, this new grinding noise has me even more worried. Does my engine have to get used to the new starter and what other issues could this be? The battery passed the battery test at Autozone, and my alternator is fine as i unplugged the positive and negative wires from the battery while was truck was running. I really really like my truck and am trying everything in my power to keep it running as smoothly as possible.
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When I start my car (usually a cold start) I hear a TERRIBLE grinding-like noise. Other times it sounds like a shuffling noise. And then other times it's like its over-exerting itself trying to start up. I've taken it to the dealer many times as it's a 2014 Corolla. They have no answers. The claim it's just a characteristic of the car. I call bull. This isn't normal for any car. My car has a CVT transmission by the way. Could it be the starter? Spark plugs? Note: the noise is about 1000x worse in winter. Audio is attached in separate comment.
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My 1997 Camry won't start off and on. It seems to do it after I've run several errands, i.e., started and stopped the car several times, and it seems to happen when the weather warms up (from the 20's, 30's to 60 degrees or so)
All the regular things have been checked (battery, alternator, starter.) I have a mechanic who specializes in imports and has lots of experience with Camrys. He thought it was the idler but replacing that didn't work. He tried putting in a computer but that didn't solve it. He doesn't think it's the gas pump because he used something to test that and it showed it was getting gas fine.
We tried the theory of "winter gas," but that doesn't seem to be it either.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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Sometimes my car starts when I turn over the key once. When it won't start, if I jiggle the steering wheel several times it will start. (When it's cold or humid it rarely starts without first jiggling the steering wheel). I'm not locking the steering wheel and I don't have trouble turning over the key. When the problem first developed I was told it's not the battery, alternator or starter. (I have a Toyota Tercel so the key goes into the steering column). (A few months ago a shop had it a whole day but couldn't get it to act up; then the problem went away for a few months).
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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The engine problem I am having is with a 96 corolla with about 198000 miles on it it runs rough and has lifter noise as if there was no oil in engine it only happens when cold and when the vehicle has sat for more then 3 days since last use.....
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I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
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My 2009 Toyota Corolla has started to make a grinding noise when starting. The sound is identical to when you try to start an idling car. What the problem is?
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I drive a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 and wound up doing a bit of unexpected rock crawling on a recent camping trip. After a whole lot of cussing and praying I got out with a couple of dents. Since then, I started to notice a strange noise. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd (~2500 rpm) and start to accelerate, I hear a metallic grinding/pinging for roughly a second. The clutch is fully released and it happens whether or not the engine is hot. It's the 2.7 liter 4 cylinder.
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I own a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS 4-speed automatic, 24,600 original miles. The car is maybe 11 / 12 years old now. I've noticed that in extremely cold Wisconsin weather it takes a while for my car to shift into fourth gear. It kind of hangs onto third and then eventually shifts into fourth at about 40 - 45 miles per hour. Not sure if that's anything to be alarmed about or not. Drives fine and shifts smooth in warmer weather. I am the second owner. I am going to assume the original owner never changed the transmission fluid, or for that matter, never had a reason to. I purchased the car several years ago. So... is slow shifting enough to change the fluid? Or age of the fluid anything to worry about?
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on my 1989 toyota camry yesterday. Took it out for a test drive and all appeared to be OK. I did not bleed the brakes, but did have to remove a small amount of brake fluid after installing everything.
On my way into work this morning there was quite a bit of grinding noise coming from the brakes. The noise was not consistent, happening both while brakes were depressed and also when not in use. It also would go away after a few minutes and didn't always happen while braking.
I'm thinking the piston may be locking up at times, but don't know. I'll also throw out there that this is my first brake job. I did follow my Haynes manual and don't think I did anything wrong.
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Lots of flooded roads yesterday, and I drove through a few deep water spots -- maybe 8"-10" mostly at VERY slow speeds. The car is a 2009 Toyota Matrix, standard transmission. It was pouring yesterday, and very loud so I don't know if the grinding noise started yesterday. Today when I first started it, I heard a grating/grinding noise in the front about in the middle. It sounds a bit like I'm dragging a large stick or a piece of metal under the car, but there is nothing dragging. I can be coasting, sitting still (but only when I first start it), accelerating, or braking. That said, it's not constant. It comes and goes as I'm accelerating. Once I get up to speed in 4th, I don't hear it. What it might be? Usually, I just hope that noises will go away. Do I need a mechanic to check it out?
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I have 2009 corolla with 70000 miles on it. I replaced new brake pads. I have some metal grinding noise when i turn right only. I tried looking online and got few similar problem faced by other people. I am not sure if its exactly same issue. No accident damage. Mostly driven on freeway.
1) noise looks similar
2) I do not get noise when i accelerate
3) for car this old is it expected ?
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My 97 toyota 4-runner has now had three times with a loss of power making me unable to drive the car. The first time behaved differently than the last two times. Currently, I can't drive the car.
The first time, I had just filled up the gas tank (while the station underground tank was being filled). About 10-15 minutes later while on the interstate, I had a sudden loss of power and the vehicle eventually would not move forward at all. The idle was fine. I had it towed to my mechanic thinking I had gotten a back tank of gas. I believe the check engine light was on... he determined that it was a bad mass air flow sensor and replaced that. He said the filling of the tank was co-incidental.
Months later (Jan. 2015), during our first cold spell, I had driven the car, parked it overnight in temperatures of 9 degrees. The next morning it didn't want to start. I finally got it to idle to warm up in neutral, but then when I would give it gas to move it, it would stall. I finally got it to stay on and to move with barely enough power to drive it the mile to the mechanics. On the way it started "back-firing" under the hood and smelling progressively hotter although the engine heat light was normal. By the time I got it to the mechanic going about 5-10 mph, I thought it was going to catch fire, it smelled so bad. Check engine light never came on. The car sat there unmoved for two weeks while I was out of town. After the two weeks, the mechanic finally checked out the car (outside temp was now up in the 30's & 40's) he got it to start and drive, but it was "running rough". He cleaned up the connections on the coil, which had some corrosion and gave me back the car -- no charge.
It ran fine until yesterday, when the same scenario played out. Another cold snap (-4 degrees). Drove the car across town to do errands and fill the gas tank. parked it overnight. The next morning I couldn't get to start initially. Finally got it to idle. Warmed it up for 30 minutes but it would not stay running if I took it out of neutral and gave it any gas. Check engine light did not come on. This time the car is 30 miles away from my mechanic and I don't want to have it towed if I don't have to....
My mechanic thinks it's either a fuel or oxygen issue. He told me to have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tanks while I try to start it to see if that effects anything.
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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I have a '98 5-Speed Corolla. If I rev the engine when the car is in neutral and warming up I hear an odd grinding noise when I let off the gas and the engine goes down to idle. The noise does not occur if I put my clutch in. Is this something to worry about?
Also, I'm wondering what CV joints sound like when they're failing.
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