I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
View 19 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesI brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
View 1 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesThe timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
View 4 RepliesWhat would cause my RPM needle to go all the way to the right (red zone) with no change in the engine. It most often happens the first few minutes of driving, but can happen at any time. The engine does not rev up at all. I have taken it in but they could find nothing that would cause this to happen.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Jaguar X-Type 3.0 that I use as a daily driver. This morning, when I got in the car I immediately noticed a strong smell of gas. I've had an empty gas can in the trunk for a couple days so I wrote it off as being due to that and expected the smell to dissipate after a bit. I turned on the A/C and the smell only got worse. Obviously I've got a leak somewhere, the weird thing is that the engine bay doesnt smell at all and I'm not able to smell it when outside the car. I plan to take it in to get looked at (my poor wallet) but I'd like to have a good place to start.
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased this vehicle with only 19k miles. The problem, if there is one is as follows. At about 55 a vibration begins to occur and stays steady as speed increases. Had all of the tires replaced and thrust forced balanced. Yet still this vibration comes in. The car is perfectly smooth before 50. I drove another 07 of the exact same type and it appears that it had the same issue. Any further information that may alleviate this problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Jaguar X-type that gives me trouble when the temperature drops below 32 degrees. I have to warm it for at least 10 minutes. During that time it coughs and sputters and my check engine light flashes. Once the light stops flashing I am able to drive. What is going on?
View 5 RepliesMy Jaguar X-Type has a 5-speed manual transmission, and when I am driving and shift up, sometimes it starts jerking pretty violently like it might be slipping out of gear, and I have to shift into another gear to get it to stop. It seems to be exacerbated if I am accelerating. I can always get it to stop by shifting, but am afraid at some point that it will not slip into another gear and I'll be stranded. I had a mechanic look at it but he has no idea what is causing the problem and I don't want to pay for multiple repairs that may or may not fix the problem! The car's got about 125,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesSo the other day I was driving the car and it was working fine, shut it off and turned it on like 4-5 times that day as I was driving around, then I went to check the muffler and when I started it it sounded like someone jammed a bunch of metal shavings in the engine. The engine is completely fine and there is nothing in it I know that for a fact, and the fact that the belt keeps jumping off is a def pointer that its something to do with a pulley. My friend thinks its the tensioner pulley because its jumping like crazy when the engine is running but the sound is horrid.
'm gonna have a friend come look at it tomorrow after work. Also, my friend snapped the bottom bolt on the power steering pump and i left the broken piece in and I always heard it rattling and it was bent when I checked cuz I thought that's what was making the sound. So that popped out enough to hit the pulley and bend what was left of the bolt down. I spun each pulley and I didn't hear any sounds, and I tried to shake them and none felt loose. Its got 130k on it but still, 1 problem after another after another. Could that broken bolt that came out and hit the pully possibly jarred it off balance or something? If the tensioner pulley isn't broken then something is making the belt stop because its pulling it down periodically. What I should look for to fix it.
1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
The timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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2005 Excursion v10 137000 miles I am experiencing a rough idle only after the truck has been idling for a while 5+ min or so. On cold start warm start doesn't make a difference truck runs perfectly until it's been idling for a few min then starts a looping idle tach drops down to around 4-500 rpm motor sounds almost like a misfire I can press on the gas and it sputters up until it's running over 1200 rpm then smooths out and runs perfectly until it's allowed to idle for a few min then just repeats no codes are present no check engine light at all
I changed out plugs and coil packs at 100000 miles roughly year and a half ago (motorcraft parts) problem started just recently I have double checked all connections are good at plugs and at fuel injectors from what I've read up on from this forum it sounds like I could be experiencing an IAC issue or possibly an EGR issue I have checked all the rubber hoses associated with both systems and all are in good shape hold vacuum as they should are there any tests that I could perform on the IAC or the EGR to determine if it's one of those I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it if possible, or is there anything else that I should be checking oh also cleaned the mass air flow a few days ago no changes
Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
View 3 RepliesI have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
View 5 Replies1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?