Timing-belts - Belts - Volkswagen - Touareg :: 2004 - Timing Chain Malfunction At 90,000 Miles Common?
Feb 15, 2012
I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
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The timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
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I have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
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I drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
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I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
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So I had oil leaking out of my starter so I ended up pulling it and replacing a gasket behind the flywheel... Now the car didn't run because the timing was off by a lot so I jumped a few teeth on the timing chain. Now I have a bunch of white smoke and the car lacks power. It will stall going reverse out of my driveway unless I rev it high. The engine itself has less then 5k miles on it as it's rebuild so I don't think it's a head gasket if it was running fine before I pulled the flywheel off. The idle sounds fine and feels smooth but puffs white smoke. I used a timing gun and adjusted it, and seems on point but now I'm stumped. What could it be? 1972 Honda n600...
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
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So I have multiple issues that all seem to stem from a power steering leak. According to the dealership, the PS pump is leaking fluid onto the serpentine and timing belts causing them to swell. This in turn has something to do with the AC compressor not working but they wouldn't give me details. When I looked at the clutch wheels on the AC compressor, there seems to be a good amount of rust in between the two wheels. I can't say that I trust the dealership because the original owner was bought out by a larger group that is known to just say "replace everything". I usually do most of my own work on my 95 Tacoma, so I'm no stranger to import v6 motors.
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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There was a time Ford when used a nylon toothed timing chain gear on the camshaft. Over time this got brittle and started to break into pieces. The rule of thumb at our household was to change these at about 100k miles.
I think that was a "302" thing and all "5.0" engines have all metal gears? I have no reason to open up our '99 Explorer's 5.0 with 180,000 miles. But, I will change the timing chain if it should be done.
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I understand the TSB for this issue relates to 2005 and 2006 model Avalons. what's your best guess in terms of how common the timing cover oil leak problem is on '05s and '06s? 20%? 80%?
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I'm told by my dealer that I must replace the timing chain by 100,000 miles. I've also been told by others who've driven multiple vehicles over 250K miles that they've never replaced a timing chain on any of their vehicles. Who's right in this case?
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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I have a quick question, when a timing chain breaks on a gli does it cause damage to the engine(like mess up the piston and valves) need to know ASAP.
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Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on an SOHC Explorer, only to have the tensioners fail again after only a few thousand miles? I'm a pretty experienced back yard mechanic and have rebuilt several engines over the years with great results, but this one has me stumped. The only part of the instructions I did not do was to remove the valve springs, but everything was lined up as it should have been using the special tools required to set the timing. I really like the truck, but don't know if it's worth fixing if this is just going to happen again.
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Brand new car leased since Nov, 15', at this low mileage already has noise that sounds like a 40,000 mile car (maybe not even with some other quality cars). Does it sound too early?
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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