The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
View 4 RepliesI brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
View 1 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
View 6 RepliesThe timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
View 3 RepliesI have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
View 19 RepliesSo I had oil leaking out of my starter so I ended up pulling it and replacing a gasket behind the flywheel... Now the car didn't run because the timing was off by a lot so I jumped a few teeth on the timing chain. Now I have a bunch of white smoke and the car lacks power. It will stall going reverse out of my driveway unless I rev it high. The engine itself has less then 5k miles on it as it's rebuild so I don't think it's a head gasket if it was running fine before I pulled the flywheel off. The idle sounds fine and feels smooth but puffs white smoke. I used a timing gun and adjusted it, and seems on point but now I'm stumped. What could it be? 1972 Honda n600...
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
So I have multiple issues that all seem to stem from a power steering leak. According to the dealership, the PS pump is leaking fluid onto the serpentine and timing belts causing them to swell. This in turn has something to do with the AC compressor not working but they wouldn't give me details. When I looked at the clutch wheels on the AC compressor, there seems to be a good amount of rust in between the two wheels. I can't say that I trust the dealership because the original owner was bought out by a larger group that is known to just say "replace everything". I usually do most of my own work on my 95 Tacoma, so I'm no stranger to import v6 motors.
View 4 RepliesI stupidly did not properly replace my coolant reservoir after cleaning it. Found out today after my check engine light came on. The drive pulleys rubbed against it enough to almost make a hole in the reservoir. After putting the reservoir back in the correct location, the check engine light stayed on. There is engine hesitation upon acceleration and the check engine light starts flashing even with mild acceleration. When I went to get it checked, I was told cylinder 3 misfire was the code. I suppose it is possible that the current problem is unrelated to the initial stupidity, but seems unlikely.
2002 Impala 3.8L
'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
View 9 RepliesI have an '05 package 2 and I am replacing the steering wheel. I found that I need to disconnect the battery to replace the airbag, I also read that it is a good idea to remove the SRS relay. Which one is the relay under the hood? additionally I am trying to remove the seatbelts to clean them how do you remove the paneling without breaking the plastic?
View 1 RepliesFor the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
I had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 07 Chevy Aveo was towed home Tuesday. She tried downshifting on the freeway and suddenly she couldn't get it in or out of gear. I was able to get it in all gears but the clutch engagement was all wrong. there didn't seem to be any slip zone, it just jumped at 1/2 pedal. I found the clutch master cylinder leaking slightly under the boot so I changed it and bled the system, no change. I had backed the car out of the garage onto the upward sloped driveway which required a lot of RPM's. Later I couldn't get it out of gear and cannot disengage the clutch, even to allow it to roll. I also changed the slave cylinder, still no luck. I changed the clutch, throw out bearing, and had the flywheel resurfaced last April.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?