When the computer says the life of the oil is over, the engine begins to run poorly - skipping, stuttering. The oil level is fine … I know it needs changing, but why such a dramatic problem. Can't start it now to get to service. Last time thisoccurred, it was running very rough, had the oil changed and it ran like new. What's up?!
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Element and she'll be rolling over 200K miles later this year. Ellie runs great except for one odd little quirk and she's done it since I bought her, a year and a half ago.
As I am accelerating, if I steady my speed around two certain spots, (25ish mph and 40ish mph), my car sometimes stutters. It's almost as if she is trying to figure out what gear to be in and is bouncing between the two. Could it be something as simple as a sensor? I don't know where to start with this one.
I have experienced an odd behavior once today & once yesterday, while driving my 2007 BMW X3 3.0. Each time, I was RAPIDLY pulling onto a busy street, from a side street...I accelerated fairly aggressively from the intersection, moving across lanes of oncoming traffic and into the main traffic lanes on the far side. My SUV was driving without any issues up until that point. As i accelerated, the car began to stutter (shudder?), and the 'Service Engine Soon" light came on instantly. The car continued to drive, but struggled to maintain speed/acceleration. I pulled over to a full stop as soon as I could, and turned the engine off. After a couple of minutes, I turned the car back on, and the diagnostic light was no longer on, and the car resumed driving normally as before. Why this sudden acceleration is causing the Service Engine light to come on, and this odd driving behavior?
View 7 Replies2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Suzuki XL7 that's sending me messages whenever the car demons feel the need. From time to time, a message will come up on my console display saying, "TURN OFF ENGINE; OIL PRESSURE LOW." I shut off the engine and then it stops. Along with the message there is a continuous tone similar to when a door is open. The tone gets loud, then soft, repeat. I find it hard to believe that the oil pressure would equalize after the engine being shut down for about 30 seconds. Could I possible have an electrical problem? I ask this because, as I mentioned before, the tone is loud initially and then soft. When I use the turn signal, the same thing happens.
View 6 RepliesSo, I have a 2007 Suzuki SX4, about 172,000 miles on it. Great little car. Love it. It's the AWD Hatchback model.
I recently noticed that it's been squeaking a bit. But only right at start up. In fact, it's summer where I live, and A/C is required just about anytime you go anywhere, day OR night... so, it may have been going on a while without me noticing it. Certainly sometime since the last oil change (almost ready for a new one).
Tonight was typical..... Start the car. Back out. Drive half a block to where there's a stop sign. I hear squeaking when I step on the brakes. Take my foot off the brakes (just to test it) and I still hear squeaking.
I turn left from my side street onto a busier street, hear a bit of squeaking. It goes away. Then I go two more blocks, make a left turn onto an even busier street, where it squeaks LOUDLY while turning left. By the time I drive another six blocks, the noise is gone. Completely.
At first I wondered about the summer heat and the serpentine belt.
The squeaking while turning left made me wonder if it's a stuck caliper.
The fact that it goes away after about a mile of driving makes me scratch my head.
Tonight, I did experiment a little. The car DOES pull -- EVER SO SLIGHTLY -- to the left. But I mean.... just barely to the left. And that could've been because the particular road I was on (when I "over corrected" a little and aimed the steering wheel a lot more to the right, it started to drift right). Alignment was last done a little over a year ago. Maybe year and a half.
So...... I know I should get this checked out. Just looking at what this might be. The fact that ALL squeaking goes away after about a mile of driving.... that seems odd to me... (unless of course it's the belt).
Have a problem with a stutter when I press the accelerator while going up hill. I even had this problem driving on a flat road but that was a 1 time thing and happens every time I go up hill. Had a coil replaced that came off of an '04 because one of mine went bad which caused it to shake whenever I came to a stop. Wondering if the coil has anything to do with it... 2007 5.4L ....
View 1 RepliesHas issue with Forenza idling at very high RPM after start up? I've got a Forenza Wagon with a 5-speed that occasionally will idle at 3100 rpm for 2 or three minutes or a mile or so after starting. The other morning, it was stuck at 3100 for 15 minutes and about 8 miles. Manual transmissions will be more evident since the high revs occur when the clutch is pushed in.
View 30 RepliesOur 2007 Avalon with 65xxx miles on it was skipping and running rough this morning. Running a scan with my VAG-COM gave me these codes.
Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found: P0305 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected P0355 - Ignition Control Circuit for Cylinder 5: Malfunction
Would you say it is time to replace the Coil for this cylinder, or should I do more troubleshooting first?
From what I've read on this forum, it appears cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are at the rear of the engine and are a PITA to change. Is there a good write-up or video on how to change these at the rear of the engine?
I have a 2007 Manual drive Hyundai Elantra with 98,000 miles on it. Prior to going to Valvoline (who I know are not the best oil change places) if I was parked with foot on clutch and brake there was a tinny noise coming from the engine. I was going to have it checked out.
Fast forward I had my oil changed at Valvoline on Saturday (2 days ago) since then when parked with foot on clutch and brake the car begins to make a stuttering/shuttering noise and is shaking a bit (in time). In addition when I shift gears and go faster there is a wheezing noise.
I assume I need to bring this back to Valvoline? Is there anything that they could have done during the oil change that would cause this issue?I didn't get the air filter but it wasn't that horrible. They of course said I should get the radiator flush and the transmission flush.
I bought my 04 6.0 from my parents a few years back and had it gone through as soon as I bought it. I got it studded, a new hpop, new oil cooler, 8 new Alliant injectors, and an sct livewire. A few months later my oil temp kept getting high and eventually it caused an injector to go out. Took it back to the guy who originally did the work and he warrantied it.
He said the oil cooler got clogged up on the coolant side. Replaced an injector and the oil cooler and it ran for another couple months before doing the same thing again. Had the oil cooler and injector replaced again and it ran fine until the number 7 injector went out and I had to replace it myself since the guy who was doing the work on my truck decided to pack up his shop and leave basically overnight.
When I got under the valve cover I noticed that the number 7 injector pigtail was different colors than the other injectors so I'm not sure what kind of work had been done to it after all, if he'd been mixing injectors or what, all I know is what he told me he had done. The truck currently has 157k on it. whenever I go to start it my injection oil pressure spikes to anywhere from 1600-1800 and the truck attempts to run but then the truck falls on it's face and the injection pressure will not get above 350-400 for about 10 to 20 seconds of cranking.
Then the oil pressure hand on my dash moves and the injection pressure goes up again and the truck cranks. After the truck is running it has a miss that most of the time goes away as the truck warms up. Im starting to believe that maybe the hoop is going out again but I'm unsure. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic so the huei injection system isn't my forte, but I do have access to just about any tool needed.
I was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with about 180,000 miles on it. I'm currently in the middle of a road trip, and today my car's been stuttering as I've started it up. After the car sits idle for a while, it stutters as I turn the key ("chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-chu-chu-chu-fail" is about how it goes). When I take the keys out and put them in again for another shot, it manages to start on the second or third try.
It runs OK once the engine gets going, and after I've been driving for a while I can turn it off and on again, without any problem. My main questions are: (1) Is this likely an issue with the starter, alternator, or something completely different? and (2) just how serious is it? If I can get the car running can I make it another ~1500 miles, or should I try to find a dealership before making it back home?
I have a 2003 f150 that has a history of misfiring on one side. It started with a misfire on #1, then #4, and finally #2. I replaced all 8 plugs last year and each COP as it gave the misfire code over the course of the last 3 years. My latest run in was with #2, and I replaced the COP today and took it for a test drive. It was running pretty rough at idle, which I assumed was from disconnecting the battery, but then the stuttering started but it felt a little different than the standard misfire that usually didnt pop up until 40-50mph.
This stutter was more constant, and it also let up when I would coast. I only took it for a 4-6mile test drive and toward the end, the "Service Engine Soon" light started blinking and then went off by the time I got home. I parked it and noticed quite a lot of crackling noises that seemed more than normal, but it was a hot day and I was pissed that I didnt fix it so I cant say for certain if it was out of the norm or not, but it seemed louder and more frequent. Then I got to worrying about my cats going bad.
So, my questions are:
Could I have done something wrong when changing the COP?
What can the flashing "Service Engine Soon" light mean? Ive only seen a solid one before.
Should I be worried about the cat going bad since all the issues have been on that one side?
What should I do next?
So I have been APR K04 for about 3500 miles and recently noticed that when its cold in the am and my car is not yet warmed up if I give it a little gas in 1st through 3rd between 2k and 4k there is almost like a stuttering i can feel the car surge a little. my first thought is the tune is responsible, my second thought is that perhaps a coil pack has gone bad (although no CEL).
View 4 RepliesI was having a discussion with a few friends and some think skipping gears when driving is bad and some say that its fine. For example going from 2nd to 4th and skipping 3rd gear. Which one is it?
View 11 RepliesWhen I start my car the air doesn't go on. After driving awhile, it goes on. If I shut car off, it doesn't go on until I drive for a while. ??? I checked the fuse (a/c) but it looks o.k. (not split).
View 1 RepliesSo it rained today. I go to turn on my wipers, and they sound like this: [URL].......................
Clattering and skipping, only for the driver side. So I go to look at the wipers, and they look fine. Put it into service mode, and driver side is not flush to windshield. Took off the windshield blade and saw that the piece that attaches the blade to the arm is crooked. And then there's a slight bend in the arm itself. Pictures show it not very obvious, but is noticeable in person. And there is a bend on both, but the driver side is much more bent than the passenger, and its also at a different angle, hence the crooked attaching piece.
My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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