Suzuki - Xl7 :: 2007 - Won't Start Easily After Fueling
Mar 29, 2011
I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
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2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
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My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and never had a problem with it until recently. My husband and I took a long drive to NJ from NH and went we stopped for gas and turned off the car, we could not start the car back up. We naturally called AAA, but once they came, about a hour later, the car started right up. Since that time, the car has repeated this several times. I take a trip to the grocery store, get back to the car, no problem, then make another short stop and then try to start the car and it does not start. I have no problem starting the car going to work every day and when I come home from work. It only happens when I make short intermittent trips, sometimes 2-3 stops. It always starts when there has been at least 1/2 hour between starts. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they can never reproduce the problem I now have a car I have no confidence in. I am afraid even to get gas for this car.
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When the computer says the life of the oil is over, the engine begins to run poorly - skipping, stuttering. The oil level is fine … I know it needs changing, but why such a dramatic problem. Can't start it now to get to service. Last time thisoccurred, it was running very rough, had the oil changed and it ran like new. What's up?!
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I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
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When I fuel up I hear a loud thump in the back of my vehicle, I then hear the gas pump nozzle click off after about another half gallon is pumped in. Without understanding the design of a tank or the gauge float etc. I am guessing that something is getting stuck and releasing under pressure once the tank fills up. Of course this has me more than somewhat concerned from a safety perspective. Note that this vehicle was brought in under warranty for the fuel sensor issue and the part was replaced, would this be related to that? Will the repair still be cover as a part of that work even though my vehicle is now out of warranty?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 74,000 miles on it, and it has had trouble starting for 2 or 3 years. When it started, I would turn the key and the car would almost, but not quite, start, and simply turning it off and trying again would work immediately. I had the battery replaced and the spark plugs at ~50,000 miles to no avail. About a month ago, I started my car and it had a really rough idle for about 15 - 30 seconds and the check engine light came on (registered an emission issue), but it ran fine. I had to get a routine oil change and emissions test anyway and they checked the spark plugs as a first measure. They all had some wear, but one was almost worn down to nothing, which the mechanic said was a result of the spark plugs (autolites?) so they replaced them with the Nissan recommended NGK kind. The next day my car didn't start the first immediately, but on second try worked. A week later I noticed my car sometimes rumbling on idle right after start again, so they replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Didn't work, I still have a rumble about 30% of the time when I start, and just two days ago the check engine light came back on (I haven't had time to get it diagnosed yet). Without knowing much about cars, it feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel or something. Could it be dirty/clogged fuel injectors? Should I be worried that my spark plugs were worn down after just 25,000 miles?
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My '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
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My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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Probably 20k ago the check engine light came on and was related to the "purge" valve as best I can recall, every mechanic I took it to kind of blew it off as just an emissions thing and not really necessary to fix. so whatever just let the light stay on as the car ran identical to before the light came on.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and my wife was filling up between classes and after she was done and went to start it, it would turn over but wouldn't start completely, luckily a guy there pump the gas and revving it out as he turned it over. then it ran perfectly fine afterwards, started up perfectly after every time....until we got gas again.
Took it to a local guy a few people I know used, told him about the check engine light and maybe the purge valve thing had finally gotten bad enough to need replacing (this was my guess after some internet digging for the same issue), he troubleshooted and came to the decision to replace the front o2 sensor. Ok I said, your the mechanic not me, do it. did it and next time got gas....same thing.
he had it for another 2 days and "couldn't figure it out", refunded me completely for the o2 sensor & labor, while throwing in the towel today. Next up , Hyundai dealership I suppose. Car is throwing NO CODES whatsoever now, have put several hundred miles on since new o2 sensor.
While he had it he had to replace the master brake cylinder. So that's new as well. I've had to replace all the coils already between 75-85k they started acting up one by one so I said screw it and did them all.
OH and another problem is the airbag light has been on the dash for about the last 6-9 months as well.
The car has just over 111k on it and I've about had it, bullshit problem after another and another. What's next??! I've owned probably 7-9 cars in my life and nothing has given me the aggravation of this car.
Cliffs:
1) car won't start when putting in gas
2) starts if you rev it up for a short while, then will start every time afterwards til next fuel up.
3) o2 sensor is new
4) no more check engine light, no codes, yet still have issue
5) car is starting to wear down my patience with repairs
6) if not a cheap fix, bye bye Hyundai
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The car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?
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This is weird, im having problem starting the car just after filling up my tank, this is the third time it happened to me, i have the engine light on, i want to scan it but im unable to cuz my abs module is bad, i drive a 98 passat 1.8T, Just clarified I'm only unable to start the car right after I fill my tank aftert that the car starts with no problem
i always use SUPER, the only way to start it is while turning the key hit the gas pedal making it go brum brum lol. But like i said i only have difficulties starting the car right after fueling after the car starts the car is fine, it starts every morning untill i visit the gas station again...
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So this morning I started my car to let it warm up (as I usually do), but noticed it shut off after a few minutes. It did this twice. 3rd time I tried to start it nothing happened, so I waited a minute then tried again, that time it started. Drove it to work without any issues.
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192,852 miles. I pushed down on the wiring harness when reattaching the (now) somewhat shorter "H" hose. Thought this could be a problem, so I then ran the "H" hose UNDER the harness (which seemed better). Any chance I could've broken a wire in the harness? I didn't move it very much at all, but those wires have been drying out for 13 years now. The car started right up afterward repairing the hose, but suddenly stopped after idling for about 5-7 minutes ... then it wouldn't start again for at least 15 minutes when it "caught" and idled for about 1 minute. Hasn't started again since. Besides the usual P0430 and P1131 codes, I noticed two other codes: P1744 and P0340.
Don't know if they just showed up today or if they've been there a while. My guess is it's the latter because I once saw P1744 about 7+ years ago and it was due to the cooling system not cooling the tranny fluid sufficiently (which is what has been happening again lately with the coolant leaking out of the "H" hose ... and the Degas tank before that). Temp gauge has been running past mid-scale at idle ... an indication of low fluid, and I've been filling as needed to prevent overheating until this weekend when I finally installed a new "T" on the "H" hose (it was leaking at the molded "T"). P0340 I saw pop up about a year ago during very cold weather. I wouldn't doubt that the damn magnet on the sensor has once again fallen into the synchro like it did 8+ years ago, but would this cause a no-start condition? I wouldn't think so... The car cranks plenty strong. Just won't "catch" and start. Up until today and the hose job, it had been running fine. Even drove it this morning about 10 miles. Could I have a coincidental fuel pump failure? Seems TOO coincidental, doesn't it?
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I have 22000 miles and this never happened on the car before wonder if it has anything to do with the recall, had the fuel system recall done about 200 miles ago. Other day after fueling car wouldn't start, also new "feature" to this car. Hope the recall didn't do something bad, I tried to reset it by reseating the cap, but warning comes on as soon as I drive it.
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After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
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I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
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Have 2000 V70 station wagon, non turbo. After filling it with gas it start only after pumping the gas pedal repeatedly. Than runs rough for 30seconds or so. Than runs great till the next fill up. Removing the gas cap doesn't cause the same problem. CEL is on. Code says gas/vapor recovery system has a leak.
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2001 Ranger 2.5L
Mom was driving the truck and tried to fill it with gas, but it only took around $6 or $7 before it cut off. After that, she tried to start the car but it would not fire. It cranks but does not start.
It was towed to a mechanic where it started fine multiple times. The mechanic then took it to a nearby station where he put $10 and the same no-start happened. I don't believe he had a problem fueling it. He's trying to determine what is causing it. Later the car will start fine and will start repeatedly.
I do not know anything else about the no-start condition, fuel pressure, spark etc. It just has happened twice now right after fueling. Plugs and wires, basic maintenance is up to date. I believe the truck has around 125K.
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