Suzuki - Sx4 :: 5-speed Vehicle Quite Sluggish Going Up And Down Mountain Sides
May 23, 2007
Own a 5-speed SX4 and live in a mountain state like Colorado? I've test driven all the models (Sport, Rally & Convenience) and one thing I've noticed is that it's quite sluggish going up and down mountain sides, which kind of defeats the object of buying one for me. Is this normal or do I just need to downshift a lot sooner than I'm used to? Also, find that wider bar around the windshield where the triangular window is really distracting?
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I have the Golf 2.5 just under 5K miles with the 15" steel wheels and just recently I've noticed a clicking noise on both the drive and passenger sides. The frequency of the noise increases as I increase speed so I assume it is a tire/wheel issue. Sounds like its coming from the back but hard to tell.
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I'm not sure what is the correct term to describe the engine behavior. Maybe backfire, knocking, but it doesn't sound like the youtube videos I see online. I just know that under certain conditions, the engine shutters with an exploding feel to it like it needed to "pass some gas" for a human.
This happens when braking quickly from high speed to slow speed or a quick stop. Also happens when accelerating then stopping a bit and resuming acceleration (an interrupted acceleration as rush hour traffic not allow for a nice acceleration - you know how people stop and go speeding up then having to break and repeat, affecting you and when you misgauge the best optimal acceleration speed, you have to stop acceleration a bit then resume).
I drive automatic transmission. Are many auto tranny cars affected by this type of thing? I seem to notice it with the cars I've driven. Or maybe I drive crappy cars. I think I noticed it once in a friends manual shift car. This expected normal behavior of cars?
Car drives fine except for the mentioned behavior for the drastic speed changes. The car is a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, automatic transmission. Currently 80k miles.
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I recently hear some light noise from AC/heater fan at lowest setting (1) - its like the faint motor noise you might hear in spinning motors (sort of like ticking but not quite). I don't recall hearing it before. At higher speeds like 2+ you hear air blowing out which overpowers any faint noise you might hear. Noticed this while using for heat setting. Haven't tried for AC as its winter now.
So I was wondering if this faint noise is anything to be alert/concerned about in terms of operation of my AC/heat fan. Would hate for it to die on me one day when I need heat/AC.
Car model is Suzuki Forenza 2006, not that it matters I assume.
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I noticed recently that my car has been running a little sluggish lately and can't figure out why. What I mean by sluggish is that when I press the gas the car is relatively slow to get up to speed. Getting onto the freeway for example, or just trying to take off "quickly" (it's a Hybrid so not trying to race anyone) just not noticing the car doesn't seem to get up to speed as quickly as before.
This is with ECO mode on or off, just more noticeable with it on. Just got the oil changed this morning, still noticing it.
The car has only about 35K on it so really puzzled as to what might be causing this problem.
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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My truck decided to have some issues last weekend coming home from a friends house. After being on the road for about an hour the truck shuddered, lost speed and was incredibly sluggish trying to get up the hill. It flashed the CEL and then went out. I was doing about 75 with the cruise on.
After slowing down to about 60 it stopped the shuddering and resumed operations as normal. Until about 20 minutes later when it repeated the above.
The next day I grabbed my reader and found the P0302 and P0306 codes. I cleared the codes and took it for a "test" drive up and down the mountain to see if it would trip the codes again. It didn't flip the codes. I thought I might have been dealing with a "one off" issue and left it alone for a few days.
Two days ago the CEL light came on and stayed on this time. Sure enough P0306. Cylinder 2 did not throw a code this time. After doing some research on here I ordered two new COPs and bought a mechanics stethoscope and some new spark plugs just in case.
The stethoscope confirms that cylinder 6 is having some issues. The COPs came in today so I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I see. I'll be looking at both the COPs and the plugs to see what may be causing the problem. The "nice" thing about this is that at least it's one of the easier COPs to get to.
Should be a nice day for working on the truck.
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2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
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Recently, my I4 XLE camry with abs came up with a cel P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A Malfunction. Where the vehicle speed sensor is located? i doubt this thing's hard to service, but so far i have no luck finding it.
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Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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The noise is related to vehicle speed, not engine speed. Easiest to hear when all is quite coasting at 30mph. Sounds like the front. It just started the other day.
The noise sounds like moan from airplanes high ahead (think WW2 movies). I replaced the front springs and shocks a few thousand miles ago and did not get it realigned. No noise until now. The tires are good and feel smooth (no sign of cupping, feathering,..). It is 4wd. How best to tell if it is wheel bearing? Rear end? Get it aligned?
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Where the vehicle speed sensor is located on the 2007 es350. Reomoved battery and air filter box but just can't find it.
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For about the last month or so my car has been making a strange thumping kind of sound that is constant with vehicle speed. slow or fast. changed the rotors, pads, hardware, shoes and machined drums. also has a slight pulsation when coming to a stop. Thought it was the tires but they look good. can not find anything wrong.
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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My car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
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I recently bought a 2004 XC90 T6. It has several issue and one strange issue is the sluggish performance: the vehicle sort of hesitates, requires quite a bit of acceleration effort to get up to speed, feels 'heavy', and in general does not seem to have the right amount of power. What makes the issue strange is that performance improves, noticeably, when the car is starting to run out of fuel, or when the "low fuel" light comes on. It is not a placebo effect: i've verified it several times that soon after the light is on, the vehicle becomes a lot more responsive, accelerates well, engine seems to sound quieter a little even.
I do not know much about cars. I am slowly learning after purchasing this vehicle. I verified that the air filter is clean. It has synthetic oil put in. I recently changed the spark plugs (very proud of that), that did not seem to improve the performance. My plan is to purchase and configure VIDA diagnostic tool and scan the vehicle while driving. It might also be worth mentioning that the vehicle is getting very poor mpg, averaging to 6 km per little.
One important note: the MAF sensor is faulty: i drive with it being unplugged, however when it is plugged in i experience the same as described above. I know it is faulty because when it is plugged in and the car is started up, the RPM goes to 2000+ and there for up to a minute or longer. If the MAF is unplugged this does not happen.
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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I just got a used 2015 with only 1000 miles on it. Everything is great except I notice when going up and over the mountain highway I take everyday to work the car revs kind of loud and feels like there's not a lot of power. I don't know if this is normal or not, but it doesn't sound right to me.
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