Suzuki - Forenza :: While Driving Tranny Will Seem To Slip Into Neutral And Rev
Dec 8, 2012
I have a Suzuki forenza - whoops! Anyway it is a 2007 automatic with about 25K miles. It started doing the following: while driving it will seem to slip into neutral and rev. For example, driving on the freeway at 65 mph; foot slightly on the gas it seemed to literally jump out of gear and the rpm shot up for a few seconds and then jumped back into gear. It also some times seems to clunk into reverse when backing up and occasionally seems to be in a lower gear than necessary when driving - revving while staying in gear - literally like it is in a lower gear than necessary. It has a 7 year/100,000 mile power train warranty. I took it to the dealer and they said they needed to replicate these things themselves before they could do anything about it. They would not just take my word. The service manager also said that it could be the computer system as opposed to the transmission itself.
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I have a 2006 suzuki forenza (automatic) with about 90,000 miles on it. Five times this summer, it seems to get "stuck" between reverse/ neutral (both letters are displayed on dashboard) and the check engine light goes on. I turn the car off/on and the the problem seems to resolve. The check engine light stays on for about 24 hours. The car drives "fine" (its a relative term, has some other quirks) for another 2-4 weeks until it happens again. My question is: is this a serious problem or can I just ignore it?
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I'm not sure what is the correct term to describe the engine behavior. Maybe backfire, knocking, but it doesn't sound like the youtube videos I see online. I just know that under certain conditions, the engine shutters with an exploding feel to it like it needed to "pass some gas" for a human.
This happens when braking quickly from high speed to slow speed or a quick stop. Also happens when accelerating then stopping a bit and resuming acceleration (an interrupted acceleration as rush hour traffic not allow for a nice acceleration - you know how people stop and go speeding up then having to break and repeat, affecting you and when you misgauge the best optimal acceleration speed, you have to stop acceleration a bit then resume).
I drive automatic transmission. Are many auto tranny cars affected by this type of thing? I seem to notice it with the cars I've driven. Or maybe I drive crappy cars. I think I noticed it once in a friends manual shift car. This expected normal behavior of cars?
Car drives fine except for the mentioned behavior for the drastic speed changes. The car is a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, automatic transmission. Currently 80k miles.
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I don't think I've heard it for a while but hearing them again. While driving car over some terrain (road, parking lot, parking lot ramp) that's not flat but curved up/down, as the car goes over it, I may hear a grinding type noise.
I don't believe it's the one where the bottom of car hits the road because of bobbing up and down and having low clearance from tires to bottom of car frame. I've heard that type of noise before as passenger in other people's cars.
Is this noise likely to be associated to some suspension component, axle, or the shock absorbers, etc.? I recently had the shocks replaced about a year ago, I hope the shocks didn't just die after a year. Other than that, car runs fine.
I did have tires replaced with new ones recently though if that makes a difference, car didn't go through alignment check though, just rebalance new tires.
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I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
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When I start my car the air doesn't go on. After driving awhile, it goes on. If I shut car off, it doesn't go on until I drive for a while. ??? I checked the fuse (a/c) but it looks o.k. (not split).
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Has issue with Forenza idling at very high RPM after start up? I've got a Forenza Wagon with a 5-speed that occasionally will idle at 3100 rpm for 2 or three minutes or a mile or so after starting. The other morning, it was stuck at 3100 for 15 minutes and about 8 miles. Manual transmissions will be more evident since the high revs occur when the clutch is pushed in.
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seems a bit rather loud. Can hear part of it while in car idling and the hood closed.
Is this normal or indicates potential problem to fix?
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I know the cabin or A/C air filter is to filter out pollutants, etc. like the ones in home A/C so you have more comfortable & cleaner air into the car.
But is it really necessary to have & replace or just a nice convenience (and thus extra hassle to maintain) in modern cars? I believe old cars 2 decades or more back didn't have these right?
Just asking this because
(1) I don't care that much about really clean air coming into car, and more importantly
(2) I just replaced the cabin air filter in my Suzuki Forenza. I didn't know it had one until I did some research. Manual didn't really point it out, and the dealer & mechanics never mentioned it whenever I brought in for service. So all this time, I think I've been using the original filter for 7 years (60k miles), or if not then at least half that (assuming dealership did their part to replace the filter at the right time for 30k or other interval service). The original filter mentions to inspect & replace as needed and using a dirty one can damage the blower or something like that.
So what's the worst that can happen if you just keep using same old cabin air filter and never replace it? Will it kill your heating & A/C system or parts of it? Or just really dirty air over time?
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I took it to a supposedly decent shop for replacing timing belt & diagnosing weird loud engine noise and that turned out to be the power steering pump. After done, I took car back and did some driving of it for work & errands. Today, I was just looking over engine and noticed a nut that's sticking out and not tightened to the engine and it's part of the power steering pump (see photo, roughly in the center). Nut wasn't loose loose per se, but it was turnable and not fastened properly unlike the other surrounding nuts. I ended up hand tightening it flush to the mounting location then finished with a small adjustable wrench to tighten securely in place.
The car/engine drove fine before I noticed this issue. Do you think any problem/damage could have occurred while that nut was kind of loose? Hope I'm safe & cross my fingers. On a side note, all the other nuts on the power steering pump appear to be fastened properly/ok, it's just this one nut, so I don't think it would be all wobbly when the engine was running. Good thing I noticed this in time.
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It will start only in cold days and it does not have the check engine light. The dealership clear some codes, but they were not sure that the code had something to do with it. I have replace Spark plugs and wires. But that wasn't it. And it just winter just start it here in minnesota.
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza with original battery, so it's been about 9.5 years now. Yesterday, I couldn't start the car, and it made a few rapid clicks on trying to start it. I didn't have time to deal with it so took a spare car to work. Came home to check/try the car and it had so little charge that dashboard lights, automatic door locks, etc. didn't work, the warning indicator lights that light up on turning power on barely lit up. Seems like the battery was nearly discharged. I'm attempting to have it charged with an external charger right now to check on the car later (and try to check for parasitic drain), have the battery tested, and bring the car to mechanic for a more thorough inspection (I'm not a car person).
I was just wondering though in the meantime: did I get lucky to get nearly 10 years of life out of a car's factory installed battery? and that it's likely time for a new battery regardless of whether the battery still holds charge? The car was working fine the previous day, I never had to jump start the car. Although I had trouble starting car once or twice in the past, but that just required waiting a bit and attempting to start car again - may have been warm weather related. It just failed yesterday, and I don't recall leaving headlights on or things like that. I'm just wondering had my car been parasitically draining already and just hit a critical point yesterday (slow drain before but faster drain at some point like yesterday), or can parasitic drain just happen all of a sudden like fine one day, then some drain/short the next that kills the battery.
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Not quite a U turn but more like 3 point turn without the backing up, for a wide/sharp U turn to go full circle, turning the steering wheel to the max. It's typically a left turn in this case as seldom turn wide & around the other way.
Doesn't happen all the time, might depend on the road surface (level or not, etc.) but when it happens, I hear a faint hissing sound like air leaking or running water in a pipe. What might this indicate? I don't suppose it's normal?
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I recently hear some light noise from AC/heater fan at lowest setting (1) - its like the faint motor noise you might hear in spinning motors (sort of like ticking but not quite). I don't recall hearing it before. At higher speeds like 2+ you hear air blowing out which overpowers any faint noise you might hear. Noticed this while using for heat setting. Haven't tried for AC as its winter now.
So I was wondering if this faint noise is anything to be alert/concerned about in terms of operation of my AC/heat fan. Would hate for it to die on me one day when I need heat/AC.
Car model is Suzuki Forenza 2006, not that it matters I assume.
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If I'm parking car on inclined ground like a hill but could be less steep, with front of car facing up the incline, and I abruptly brake while car is in driving gear (or say neutral), then I hear some creaking noise in back.
What might it likely be coming from? I have similar noise on front of car under other circumstances and others here have mentioned to check for CV joint, ball joint, bushings in another older post. How about such noise on the back side of car?
The car is a Suzuki Forenza 2006 w/ ~60k miles (7 yrs old car)
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I recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
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Took vehicle in for two things last week and they said both were normal for the vehicle.
1. Sunroof rattles. I can physically push up on the sunroof and feel a little play in it. It doesn't leak or anything, but does rattle on certain roads. Dealer say it's tightened to standards and within normal expected specs for the age of the vehicle (2007), but after feeling the sunroof in my other car that has no play in it whatsoever, I'm a little skeptical.
2. Under certain conditions, the tranny seems to slip/pause and then grab a gear. It happens on off-ramps usually. I let off the gas to slow down and the give it gas to carry me through the off-ramp. It feels like a clunk or the tranny slipping trying to find a gear and then it finds one and noticably clunks in. Dealer hooked up a computer to it and it says it's operating noramlly and the clunk is just a product of the way I drive and the electronic shifting computer. I've had my drive shaft replaced thinking this was the problem, but it's still there.
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I'm at 5,500 miles and the last couple of mornings I've had my tranny slip and lunge between gears, sometimes 2nd and 3rd and once out of 1st. I know there's an update/flash that needs to be done but my build date says not required. My truck was finished April of 2012. I'm going to call the stealer but I'm sure they will "check it out" and say nothing's wrong so it would pin point this issue.
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I have the dreaded slip yoke clunk, I used the FORD SPEC PTFE lube and it works for a while until the tranny fluid that makes its way onto the slip yoke dissolves it!! Replacing the slip yoke with an updated one?
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i have a 1994 nissan quest 3.0 v6 and when i put it in reverse or drive it will slip into neutral if i am stopped. Also the front motor mount needs to be replaced, which I will do soon. Are these problems related, if not how do i fix the shifter/linkage problem? When driving the vehicle upshifts and downshifts perfectly.
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I have a 97 f150 (built 96 as 97 model), 4.2l 4x4, auto tranny. Here's the problem, when I turn my key forward to run position my starter kicks on and starts the truck, and stays engaged. I have a constant 14v at the signal wire on the starter relay (yellow red stripe). Also tranny started to slip, od light flashing. I replaced ignition lock cylinder, ignition/ starter switch, starter relay, starter, and today transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch 8 pin), same problem. Cel code that I had 2 days ago was P0707 tr sensor low input.
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