Suzuki - Esteem :: 2000 - Stuck Ignition Won't Turn At All
Feb 3, 2011
I have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem and I live in Minnesota (just in case the cold affects it). This morning my ignition won't turn at all. I have tried wiggling the wheels to unlock the ignition, but nothing is working.
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I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
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I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee that yesterday the key got stuck in the ignition and i cannot remove it. At the same time i used to have to press the brake to shift from park to any gear now it just moves freely without using the brake.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I'm Using Maruti Suzuki Swift Dzire. Till last month my car used to unlock doors automatically while taking the key out. Now the problem is :After turning off the ignition & taking the key off Car doors are not unlocking automatically. If doors are unlocked manually from inside by pressing unlock button situated in the car, doors are unlocking. If I unlock the doors manually and open the doors, I'm unable to lock the car with the remote key after closing the doors.
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So this morning, it was -5 degrees outside. I put the key in the ignition, but I could not turn it forward at all, it was like it was frozen. So I took a lighter, heated up my key, and put it in the ignition, let it set for a few seconds, and I was able to turn it over. I have had to this every winter so far, but it only happens when it is really cold out. The only thing I can think of is moisture in the ignition.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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I have a 2006 suzuki forenza (automatic) with about 90,000 miles on it. Five times this summer, it seems to get "stuck" between reverse/ neutral (both letters are displayed on dashboard) and the check engine light goes on. I turn the car off/on and the the problem seems to resolve. The check engine light stays on for about 24 hours. The car drives "fine" (its a relative term, has some other quirks) for another 2-4 weeks until it happens again. My question is: is this a serious problem or can I just ignore it?
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We own a 2000 Toyota Tundra--90,000 miles--obviously not used hard. When we turn on the ignition, we hear a ticking sound--sounds like it might be coming from underneath car passenger side. The sound seems to disappear as we drive it. What it might be? Toyota service person told us it might be exhaust manifold and estimated maybe 2K to fix it.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7 that's sending me messages whenever the car demons feel the need. From time to time, a message will come up on my console display saying, "TURN OFF ENGINE; OIL PRESSURE LOW." I shut off the engine and then it stops. Along with the message there is a continuous tone similar to when a door is open. The tone gets loud, then soft, repeat. I find it hard to believe that the oil pressure would equalize after the engine being shut down for about 30 seconds. Could I possible have an electrical problem? I ask this because, as I mentioned before, the tone is loud initially and then soft. When I use the turn signal, the same thing happens.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I am at work and my wife is on the phone. They Treg would not start this morning and the key is stuck in the ignition. She tried using a pen to push the little button in but it won't move and the key won't budge. What is she doing wrong, and why did this happen? Is the battery drained?
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I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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My key is stuck in the ignition. The car turns on, i just cannot pull out the key. I've had to park my car at work with key still stuck in the ignition until I can get this matter resolved. The key is a regular key, does not have a chip.
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