Suzuki - Aerio :: Making Noise That Sounds Like Slipping Belt?
Aug 22, 2016
Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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my 2001 nissan frontier xe is making squeaking, slipping sounds past couple months. getting more frequents, scaring me to drive and felt like has brief loss of power couple days ago while parking.
someone told me power steering fluid is orange rust colored and gunnky and needs replaced which i dont know how or have tools for.
Video of it here. At around 1 minutes 54 second, and 2 minute mark, among others, the sound is audible. [URL] ....
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My brakes are making a noise like a belt slipping when I'm at a complete stop. The noise only happens when I'm at a stop, brakes work fine. Lift my foot off the brake, noise goes away. Seems to be coming from front drivers side. What should I look for?
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I have an 05 Jetta Wagon GLS 2.0 which has been amazingly resilient. I had the 100k check up done recently and everything still came up positive; the battery conked out at 120k; and I just recently replaced the stock head and tail lights out of proactiveness rather than them going out. But, I think I've run into an issue now. When I drive through a puddle (or otherwise get water significantly on the underside of the car) if I am running the AC at the same time the engine makes a squealing noise as though a belt is slipping due to the water. I presume is the case that a belt is slipping--and I imagine that is part of the reason it idles noisier than when it was new, but before my wife and I make a budget I'd see whether there are other options. As it is there are 130k miles on the car, it's a 5spd standard, and other than oil changes and the checks at 30, 60, and then 100k no real service has been done.
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The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
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My brother and i had replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley oh his 1999 taurus wagon with a 3.0l and after we changed them we put a new belt on it and after about 10 mins of running it started to runoff the alternator pulley put the old pulleys back on and it runs fine except a noisy squeal so we put the new ones back on again and same problem except after about 35 mins it ran off again is there something we are missing this is getting expensive replacing serpentine belts. Like i said with the old pulleys it runs fine just very noisy new ones runs quiet just blows out serp. belts
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I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
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I have a 2009 Camry 5spd with 92K miles on it. Camry is completely stock and original with meticulous services to engine oil and drained the transmission fluid at 68K miles. I am hearing an engine hum every now and then (although I notice it more often now that I am searching for it) while I am idling. I don't believe it to be engine vibration, rather it is a hum, seems like a belt pulley bearing is going out, or even, and i hope its not, like my throw out bearing in the clutch is going bad.
Only reason I say that is because it makes the hum for a few seconds then goes away, then comes back for a bit. It makes the hum when i have the clutch engaged and when i have the clutch disengaged and a in neutral. I have opened the hood to try and search from where it is coming from but it is just too darn hard to figure out.
I am hoping it is nothing related to my transmission. I may pull the fill plug on it this weekend and try to stick my finger inside to see if I am low on fluids and it is making a hum (but I highly doubt it because when I filled it up after drain i filled it too the top). I haven't experienced any burning of oil and use 5W-20 (Castrol GTX since day 1). I may switch fluids on my next change and use maybe a different brand and viscosity (maybe use standard Quaker state at 5W-30).
Again it isn't an engine vibration, rather just a hum or almost like a stinking wobble and then goes away for a few seconds. I say wobble kind of like you would hear a drive shaft on a truck that wasn't balance properly and was spinning without being centred with counter weights.
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2008 Suzuki XL7 Luxury FWD105,000 miles3.6L 6 cylinder engine
The "buckle seat belt" symbol keeps popping up on the dashboard for the driver's seat even though the seat belt is certainly buckled. This happens off and on throughout a drive, but it does happen at least once every time the car is driven. Other than the constant dinging and the dashboard light, the seatbelt seems to be working properly.
We took it in to a mechanic and they said it is a switch in the seat belt assembly that is failing, but they don’t sell just the switch. They have to replace the whole assembly. They determined this by doing an electrical test in which they compared the resistance of the working passenger seatbelt to the non-working drivers seatbelt.
We are concerned that this is a problem that would cause the seatbelt to fail in the case of an accident. If we ignore this problem and just have them shut the seat belt warning sound OFF, are we in danger? Basically I just want to know how critical is this problem?
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I was wondering because serpentine belt is a big thing for 05 corolla since everything runs on it. I also had a 94 camry which had a alternator connected to a belt. and if i wanted to tighten up that belt i would just loosen the alternator and pull it. Is there a way to tighten up serpentine belt in my 05 corolla in the same way?.
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