Suzuki - Aerio :: Hard Pulling To Right / Steering Wheel Turns About 5 Degrees When Accelerate
Apr 22, 2014
I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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2002 Lexus Rx300. The recent problem that I have been having is that various times when I go to accelerate my car from a stop position, i.e. stop sign, red light, my car will act as if something is getting stuck at the front right wheel pulling my car to the right and not allowing me to accelerate. It will make a grinding sounding noise. I have to usually lift my foot off the accelerator, straighten out the wheel and then press the gas again for the car to move. Sometimes the action it strong enough it causes the 'Slip Indicator' light to come up on my dash. It will happen at almost every stop light so driving in the city it gets rather annoying. At long distances on highways everything is fine because I'm not in a stop and go situation. My mechanic can't seem to figure out what the problem is so nothing has been fixed about it.
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My son sent me a text stating "mom is driving with the steering wheel at 90 degrees to the left!". I had to get this repaired ASAP. I thought maybe a tie rod went bad and maybe went further. Steering had been off slightly to left prior.
Firestone said that when they went to check alignment, they found that the strut tower was gone. I knew it had to be on the right side. The passenger strut tower rusted through at the mid rear, and broke the spot welds, and was not attached at most of its circumference. Fortunately, the body shop that repaired our van from a prior damage.(hit at stoplight). I replaced the struts about a year or two ago with quick struts. Did not even think of checking for this rusting issue.
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Just got my golf R 4 door/Nav. When driving straight on the highway (regardless of road crown)... my wheel was about 4 degrees off to the left. No problem alignment wise, but the nice flat bottom wheel is cockeyed.
Car has only 330 miles on it. Took it back to the dealership, they put it on the alignment rack - actually had me sit in the car ensuring the wheel was straight as the tech adjusted the Tie Rods below.
This made it better - I instantly noticed it was better when I took a short test ride with the tech, just as they were closing. However, on the highway home I noticed its still about 2 degrees to the left. Really frustrating as now I have to take it back to the dealer a second time.
The tech actually showed me the alignment printout which was close to-but not totally perfect. Said the only way to make it perfect is to adjust the sub-frame? Really? on a new vehicle.
I do have plans to mod the car's suspension with H&R Coilovers - but will not touch anything until I get this wheel thing square and I am 100% satisfied.
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Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
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I've got 2003f150 4x4 and had a fender bender front end out of line so had it lined up but steering wheel 180 degrees out..well watched a video about just adjusting drag link..so i crawled under ready to adjust but cant find an adjustment collar. Mine the only one without it?
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I've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
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I have a 2010 Lexus Es350, and I am having this issue:
When accelerating hard, the car will aggressively drift to the right. During normal driving it is otherwise fine.
When braking from 60-70mph, I will also get a significant vibration in the steering wheel.
What can be the issue here? I've read possible brake rotor, tire out of balance, alignment?
Are these 2 issues connected?
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So I had my car at the dealer today. still is at the dealer. They say that they cant hear a loud pop when backing out and pulling into spots while cutting the wheel hard. I need to go back and show them tomorrow.
The noise occurs when stopping very hard it will pop about 3 times then if you pick up hard or step on it it also pops. then it pops when pulling in and out of parking spots and you cut the wheel hard.
Suspension popping in the front. I told them strut bearings but they said they were fine.....
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just had 2 turbos replaced on v10. 4 wheel alignment checked twice. car pulls to left. Steering wheel is also not straight. have to put slight pressure down on right side of steering wheel to stop veering to left.
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I noticed the first time drove it on the highway since I bought it last week, the steering wheel finds its home a couple of degrees left of center. It tracks perfectly with no pull dragging it off to either side.
After searching, it looks as if it isn't uncommon for the toe to be set while neglecting to lock the steering wheel down at its center position. And it's a simple tie rod adjustment.
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