Suzuki - Aerio :: 2005 - Vibration / Tensioner Pulley Making A Lot Of Noise
Sep 26, 2014
i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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My tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
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Which way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
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My tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
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Video : [URL] .....
My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
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I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
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I have a 2009 Camry 5spd with 92K miles on it. Camry is completely stock and original with meticulous services to engine oil and drained the transmission fluid at 68K miles. I am hearing an engine hum every now and then (although I notice it more often now that I am searching for it) while I am idling. I don't believe it to be engine vibration, rather it is a hum, seems like a belt pulley bearing is going out, or even, and i hope its not, like my throw out bearing in the clutch is going bad.
Only reason I say that is because it makes the hum for a few seconds then goes away, then comes back for a bit. It makes the hum when i have the clutch engaged and when i have the clutch disengaged and a in neutral. I have opened the hood to try and search from where it is coming from but it is just too darn hard to figure out.
I am hoping it is nothing related to my transmission. I may pull the fill plug on it this weekend and try to stick my finger inside to see if I am low on fluids and it is making a hum (but I highly doubt it because when I filled it up after drain i filled it too the top). I haven't experienced any burning of oil and use 5W-20 (Castrol GTX since day 1). I may switch fluids on my next change and use maybe a different brand and viscosity (maybe use standard Quaker state at 5W-30).
Again it isn't an engine vibration, rather just a hum or almost like a stinking wobble and then goes away for a few seconds. I say wobble kind of like you would hear a drive shaft on a truck that wasn't balance properly and was spinning without being centred with counter weights.
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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