Suzuki :: Bigger Tires In Width Not Size?
Nov 3, 2015
I would like to know if it is possible to put biger tyers in width not size. On my Suzuki??
View 1 RepliesI would like to know if it is possible to put biger tyers in width not size. On my Suzuki??
View 1 RepliesI have a Hyundai Sonata w/ P215/55R17 tires.
I am almost due to get new tires and my husband says that we should switch the wheels and get regular tires, not the lower profile tires that were OEM w/ the vehicle. The current tires are expensive and regular tires would be less expensive in the long run. When I asked at the dealership 6 mos ago they said that it would not be good for the car and would adversely affect the performance. If I do change, what tire size (regular sidewall height) would be appropriate (and less expensive)to change to?
So I recently got this GTi and I was wondering what steps I should take before putting a bigger turbo on this car and the steps I should take when putting a bigger turbo. What should I do first be for considering a new turbo?
View 1 RepliesSo I think I've decided to look for coilovers, rather than upgraded wheels this year. Which means I need to throw some NT05s on the stock R wheels. Obv the stock width is 225/40R18. How wide can I go before it rubs? I'm certain I can't do 245, is 235 an option? The car will go on the track, so trying to find some contact surface.
View 9 Repliesi have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
View 8 RepliesWhat combinations of wheel width and offset have you tried? My goal is to have my wheels perfectly lineup with the fenders.
View 4 Replies04 6.0 with no FICM sync and no fuel pulse width. Crank/cam sync yes. All other data is good. Tried known good FICM and PCM but nothing. Had glow plug codes thats it. Found chaffed wires due to mice. Replaced damaged Injector harness still nothing. Fuel pressure is good btw.
View 13 RepliesWhat is the width between the spring perches on leaf sprung 99-04 front axle. I searched and cant seem to find a dimension listed anywhere. i tried the dana60 bible on the pirate site as well, but it doesn't list the spring perch dimensions, only for the pre 99 styles
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 2009 VW GTI which is a lovely car as you can see from this picture:[URl]. As you can also see from that picture I live in one of the many snowy states. The roads now resemble the lunar surface except with deeper craters and potholes. When I bought the car, I was stupid enough to be talked into a $500 5 year warranty. Or was I? I've driven the car for almost a month and have replaced 2 tires due to pothole damage. At this rate, I'm way ahead on the warranty. The car has 18" low profile tires which seem sensitive to being banged into the rim of potholes. Is there something about my driving that's causing this issue? I don't really speed and the last blowout happened at around 30mph. Is this something I just have to live with? Can I replace the tires w/ normal tires?
View 18 RepliesWhen I start my car the air doesn't go on. After driving awhile, it goes on. If I shut car off, it doesn't go on until I drive for a while. ??? I checked the fuse (a/c) but it looks o.k. (not split).
View 1 RepliesI'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
View 1 RepliesHas issue with Forenza idling at very high RPM after start up? I've got a Forenza Wagon with a 5-speed that occasionally will idle at 3100 rpm for 2 or three minutes or a mile or so after starting. The other morning, it was stuck at 3100 for 15 minutes and about 8 miles. Manual transmissions will be more evident since the high revs occur when the clutch is pushed in.
View 30 RepliesThe air conditioner works fine. Auxillary heat works fine. Heat won't switch from cold to hot in the front of the car. What would cause this?
View 1 RepliesWe bought a 2007 XL7 two weeks ago. The second day we had the car the battery was dead. Had it replaced and then the charging system was not reading over 12.3 volts while running. Replaced the alternator but the car still ranges from 12.3 to 14.2 volts while running or idling. Last Saturday the front control stopped working. Could not change the radio, a/c or any other centrally located controls. We had a 2004 XL7 and it was great. Our vehicle was manufactured Nov of 2006 so it was one of the first out, I almost forgot that the speakers pop like something is grounding out every time we open the doors. I ran a Suzuki Motorcycle dealership for almost 10 years and have never seen anything this random in the powersports world. The dealer said he has replaced batteries in 3 other new XL7's. Did I get the only XL7 with Gremlins?
View 30 RepliesI just got my SX4 on tuesday and it has a shimmy in the front while going down the road. They balanced the tires but I still have the problem.
View 30 RepliesI've had my 2002 Suzuki XL7 for 7 years and about 3 months ago, I noticed that as I go past 55 mph, my car creates this vibration that almost makes me think that it is trying hard to run.
Took it to the mechanic and they diagnosed after test driving and lifting it up that the wheels needed replacement. As it turns out when the car was running while lifted, the rear driver's wheel wobbled. The tires were fairly new, about 3 years old. They suspected some cord separation inside. I went and had all four wheels replaced but the vibration was still there. I took it back and they think rear differential is the problem, either the bearings need to be replaced or the whole differential axle.
The mechanic drained the differential fluid and showed me how it was almost metallic in color. The cost of replacing the bearings is $1100; to replace the whole differential with a used 88K miles, no warranty is $1400 and $1700 with warranty. What do you think is another possible diagnosis for it. I just did not want this to be another wheel incident where it didn't solve the problem. I heard that since it's a 4WD that it may be the drive train also.
My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
I have a 2011 Susuki 250 that I am no longer driving because it jerks and lunges as if it is stalling. It takes about 15 minutes before it starts stalling lunging in equal time of it running ok. The F1 light goes on at the same time as it stalls. The stall cycles are about 3-5 seconds with the same amount of time running. I'v had it at the mechanics for WAY too long. He has transferred new parts onto my bike from another new one with no success.
View 2 Replies2008 Suzuki Grand Vitari V6 4WD. What could be causing a harmonic noise upon reaching 50 to 60 mph? It is intermittent and can last for hours on a long trip. It doesn't matter if AC is on. It sounds like a piece of plastic is stuck in the air vents, a high pitch.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2006 Suzuki Reno which is the hatchback version of the much more common Forenza. Mechanically they are the same car. I began to look into this car soon after I began dating her and realized it was simply a rebadged Daewoo product. I attacked the timing belt replacement early on as she had no idea when it was last changed. The old belt was all cracked up and in dire need of replacement when I did the job.
Since then it has just been a lot of small stuff, all things these cars or known for. We are now getting a new symptom. The car sometimes hesitates/stumbles when trying to maintain or gain speed at highway speeds, especially going uphill. There are no check engine lights and I have checked for pending codes. There are none. I figured a misfire would show up but no codes of any kind are present. There was an issue a while back with the evap system purge valve which I cleaned and reinstalled. I don't know if this could be the issue but it isn't throwing the P0496 code anymore like it was before I cleaned it.
These symptoms are very intermittent. She used to always put like 3 gallons of gas in the tank when it got near empty and never fill it up. I got frustrated and told her to fill it to the top at least every once in a while. The first time she did this these symptoms started. I wondered if she busted some varnish loose inside the tank that had not been in contact with fuel for some time. We put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it cleared up for a while but returned a few tanks later. It seemed to start as she was nearing the end of a tank and continued for a bit after the fill up.
I am getting the feeling this might be a fuel related issue and not the ignition system. I already looked to see if her fuel filter was replaceable and it is not. It is an in tank one that requires the tank be removed. I would do the fuel pump if I had to do this. My other thought is maybe the fuel pump is getting iffy. I am going to do a loaner tool on a fuel pressure gauge if this happens again as I am wondering about that. Also, I haven't looked into a fuel pressure regulator but that might be something to look into.