Suzuki :: 2011 - Jerks And Lunges As If It Is Stalling
Oct 3, 2013
I have a 2011 Susuki 250 that I am no longer driving because it jerks and lunges as if it is stalling. It takes about 15 minutes before it starts stalling lunging in equal time of it running ok. The F1 light goes on at the same time as it stalls. The stall cycles are about 3-5 seconds with the same amount of time running. I'v had it at the mechanics for WAY too long. He has transferred new parts onto my bike from another new one with no success.
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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So I've been dealing with this for a little while now and it's starting to really irritate me. With my 850, when cold, it drives awesome- perfect engagement, pressure, etc. When hot, I'm noticing that even with the pedal to the floor while in gear, I might get a few 'jerks' until it frees up. Also engaging while hot (in traffic) can sometimes cause rapid 'jerks' which leads to stalling, the pedal engagement is all over the place and you really have to know how to drive the car, just to get it right.
Now I've bled the line about 4 times now in the last three years and it seems to improve slightly (maybe placebo effect), but I'm not looking into it maybe being the grease on the input shaft? I know we greased the throwout bearing and input shaft, but it was a very light coating since I was nervous about getting grease on a $2400 clutch.
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My R32 is a bit higher mileage, around 137k. Over the last year most money spent on the car has been for preventative maintenance and just to make the car ride as best it can. I keep having it happen though where when I shift in a more "Spirited" manner or if I'm in gear giving it gas and then take my foot off the throttle, you can feel the motor/trans still lunge and it's driving me kind of crazy. In the spring, I installed BFI Stage 2 motor/trans/dogbone mounts which have greatly improved everything, however, I still seem to have this movement in shifts/letting off the throttle that I can't seem to pin point. Searching has proved difficult just because of how specific it is I guess, as everything turns up either dealing with the mounts I've replaced or just being completely unrelated.
The mounts are for sure installed and torqued correctly. I had a friend look at the motor while I gave it revs, and the motor does not move much at all, as it shouldn't with the stage 2 mounts. It just seems to be when in motion where if I do a hard shift, there's a lurch and if I take my foot off the throttle while in gear, there's a decent lurch as well. I've driven a buddy's R that has way less mileage and with the same mounts, but there was absolutely no movement like in mine, which just makes me think I'm missing something else.
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MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
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Driving to work the other day on the expressway going about 65 and my truck starts vibrating and jerking like crazy. I thought i had a blow out , so I checked my tires and they were ok. Then, I thought I may had run over something. I continued off the ramp and drove on the highway to work, no sooner than a couple of minutes later it happened again. I had a tow truck take it to the dealer, this was Thursday. It's now Sunday and I haven't heard from customer service after they told me they'd call..... Its an EcoBoost by the way.
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My DSG is great until I drive it for a while. Yesterday, for example, I left work and drove twenty miles, mostly freeway. Then I stopped at an all natural drive thru (sonic) and when I let off the break, from a stop, it lunged and sounded like it was going to die. When I pressed the accelerator to move even more the tranny was loud and jerky still. I parked it for a few hours and when I jumped into it, she was fine once again. So it appears that it is only after driving or warming up good that it acts this way. I have an appointment Tuesday to get it looked at, but I doubt they will take the time to drive it that long and say to me, "everything is fine".
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Mercury Sable 2002 When i stop at a traffic light and with my foot on the brake peddle, the car will lunge forward 3 to 4 feet and the engine will rev. On the open road the car will begin to gain speed and the check brake and traction control idiot lights come on.(The gas peddle is not stuck or appears to have any problems according to the pros.) I must to turn off the engine to stop the acceleration. The idiot lights stay on for an hour or two and go off in the driveway at the dealership. Two shops and two dealerships have been unable to find the source of the problem. This happens about every 3 to 5 months.
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I am having issues with my 2011 Matrix S. It started off bucking slightly when shifting. As time went on it started clunking at random. When it clunks, the whole car jerks violently then will start driving again. One time it clunked (if I wasn't wearing a seatbelt I would have been in the dash) I lost all power to my wheels while my car was revving at around 3000rpm, it did a large jerk/clunk and then I had power to my wheels again. Lately they have been just large clunks without losing wheel power. My car always seems to revv abnormally now and sometimes when trying to accelerate, I can have me petal to the floor and zero acelleration.
I've been in frequent contact with a Toyota dealer and they are great. I can't randomly recreate the episodes so it's hard for them to be able to diagnose the issue. I'm going to make an appointment for them to do a computer read to see if any codes have been thrown.
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Last week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
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I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
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I have a 2011 5.0 screw with 3.73 gears. Today my wife has the truck to haul stuff for her craft show. She calls and says the truck keeps stalling, like she had to keep restarting the truck 3-4 times to back up 10 feet. The dealership we bought it from is going to pick it up and give us another truck to use while they figure it out.
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I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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New here, faithful f150 owner. Recently bought my first new f150, a 2011 supercab xlt 4x4 ecoboost. So far I've managed to put on 5600miles. I love the truck, but have noticed a few things.
1. Granted its a 4x4, but I have yet to see hwy mpg above 17.5 in 2 hi.
2. I can hear one of the turbos spooling up and stalling. Sometimes it'll happen at idle when stopped...Is this a common occurrence?
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I have a 2011 F 350 super duty 6.7 diesel. Occasionally while driving I am getting a cackle from the engine and it sputters and sounds like and feels like it's going to stall out. There is no power. It only happens occasionally. It happens mostly when Im driving, not accelerating from a stop. Example would be driving along for a while then try to accelerate off a ramp on to interstate. I brought it in and of course the excuse is we can't get it to replicate what I discribed. They did adjust something in the transmission shifting pattern. I get irritated when I paid for a loaded f350 diesel lariat and it has issues like this.
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