1996 Chevy Lumina. Radiator fan won't run when engine is hot. Fan motor, relay and wiring check good. Relay coil has no ground but changing control module has no effect on problem. Engine temp sensor is new and reads good on resistance check. Also low coolant is lit on dash though that may be a separate problem.
View 9 RepliesMy Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2012 certified preowned Chevy Equinox with 50,000 miles. After I drove it for 3,000 miles I had to take it to the dealer due to an engine noise which turned out to be a low oil level. They changed the oil and then told me that it's normal for these engines to burn a lot of oil. I drove it for 2,000 miles after the oil change and the oil level was low again. I took it back to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to come back after 1000 miles for an oil consumption test.I don't know much about cars but burning through that much oil does not seem normal to me.My question is, how can I make the dealer take responsibility for this car oil issues while it is still under warranty?Is it normal for these engines to consume high amounts of oil and for me to keep replacing about 3 quarts every 3,000 miles?
View 4 RepliesI start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
My radiator was leaking and I accidentally boiled it dry. I put water back into the cooling system, but now my car won't start. Anything I can check to try and get it to run before I get it towed it to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
View 5 RepliesThe two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
View 10 RepliesOur 1988 full size Chevy van (Beauville) with TBI & 357 cubic inch motor has 72,000 original miles - used mostly for 2-6 mile trips - has always been garaged; body in great shape; runs well but lately have had to add radiator fluid: 1 qt. every 100 miles - no leak, but clear fluid coming out of tailpipe which doesn't look or taste like antifreeze - oil doesn't foam or show signs of water.
What it might be, cost of fixing and what might happen if I just keep adding fluid and don't do anything about it.
I discovered the other day that I have a radiator leak on the drivers side of the radiator. (Seems to be near the top) It doesn't appear to be coming from the coils. But I noticed today, after driving about 20 miles, that the radiator cap was still cool to the touch. I was able to remove the cap without ANY issues. And the temp gauge is running just a bit behind the halfway mark. I have plenty of heat. The truck runs fine. And the water pump is new. (Within the last year) I'm not sure what I have going on besides the obvious leak.
View 10 Repliesi have a 1996 ford tausue lx about 150000 miles...when i starts the car up and i let it warm up some before i drive it..when i put it in drive the car jerks hard i did check transmission fluid and it was good.what could cause this..i did open hood up and i did see motor move back some in i put it in drive..
View 3 RepliesI drive a 97' Chevy cav', I have recently noticed that I have an oil leak. There isn't a puddle under the car yet but when I look under the car there is oil on two metal lines by the radiator. I assuming that they are the oil cooler lines. the location is on the driver side under the battery, by the radiator and closest to the bumper. Does this sound like its the oil cooler lines or is it something else?How do I repair this?How soon should I get it repaired?
View 9 RepliesI wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
View 5 RepliesMy 96 chevy s10 will not start after it heats up when you turn the key dash lights come on but starter will not turn over engine i have to wait about an hour i have replaced the ignition switch, starter and ignition control module....
View 1 RepliesRecently the check engine light came on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor. I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code, but after doing so the car wouldn't start. After many failed attempts to start the motor, I disconnected the positive lead at the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car started and ran smooth, however the check engine came back on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor again...
I let the car continue to idle and disconnected the lead at the sensor how the motor would react; it continued to run smooth....I then reinstalled the old air flow sensor and engine continued to run great...So with all this said, car runs great when check engine is on and code is not rest, however, car will not start upon clearing the code and resetting the light......is it safe to assume the computer is going bad and needs to be changed?
Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
View 3 RepliesA while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
I put new cheapest wiper blades from Auto Zone on my 1996 Impala SS when I bought it about 4 months ago. They are both quiet when it is pouring but if the rain is light the driver side wiper stutters like a wounded elephant, but the passenger side wiper is silent. What to do to fix this? Something to put on the windshield? Try a different brand, more expensive wiper?
View 6 RepliesOn my 1996 Impala SS, the low beam in one of my headlights just went out. Is this something I can fix easily or should I have a shop do it? Is it just a bulb to replace or the a whole sealed beam headlight?
View 1 RepliesI have a '96 Chevy Silverado that twice (in about as many months) has had some trouble starting. When I turn the key the engine starts to crank, then there is a loud pop and the engine stops. When I crank it again the engine will start, although more slowly than usual. What could be wrong?
View 19 RepliesI have a squeaky blower motor in 96 laredo. Not bad..just enough to be annoying. What are the chances I can take it out and grease it rather than replace it?
View 5 Replies