Suspension :: 1995 - Nissan Pickup Overheated Due To Lack Of Coolant
Mar 14, 2014
I work for for a non-profic organization. We have a 95 nissan 2.4L pickup, and one of the guys drove a fair distance while overheating because of a coolant leak. He did not quite make if back before the truck died. At first I offered to do the work on it thinking maybe it just needed a new head gasket and some machining on the head surface. But I did a compression test and 2 cylinders were around 30 and the other 2 around 40psi. Also there is coolant in the oil.
Given that the pressure is so low do you think there is much of a chance that the head is not completely warped and needs to be replaced. Is it unlikely that there would be damage to the bottom of the engine, cylinder walls, pistons or warped block? I know one cannot say for sure until the head is removed but I would like to avoid wasting the time because if the truck needs a new head or worse they are gonna just junk it.
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I have a 95 nissan pickup V6 hardbody and speedometer goes in and out when it is out i just pound on dash and it will work. I took it apart and put white gauges on it and cleaned the connectors with electric spray. Put back together and it's still doing the same thing. But now when I hit dash it dosent work. Check engine light does come on if it don't work. But it did before till I pounded the dash then it went out.
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I have a 95 nissan pickup V6. The speedometer stopped working today and engine light came on. truck sat there while I was working and went back out to it. Started truck back up and engine light was still on. As soon as I put it into gear the engine light went off and speedometer started working again. What it could be. It's a 2wd not 4wd
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1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
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95 manual trans Subaru Legacy (lack of power), Everyday at least once my car will cut off when I come to a stop. Also, at least once a day it seems like there is no gas pressure. What I mean is I will just be driving along and no gas is getting to where it needs to be. I can pump the gas pedal and the gas engages again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. It doesn't matter what the lay of the land is. I will say it has occured an increased number of times over the past 2 very warm days. It could be it's just getting worse.
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Coolant temperature gauge bounce up and down.
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Have air trap in coolant after water pump replace.cannot get it out. Do I need to drain coolant again and start over. 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter.
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I have notice that I am loosing coolant some were so I got up under truck I notice coolant is coming out of the a/c drip hose. Is that a sign the heater coil bad. Truck is a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter with 251.0000 mile. floor on passenger side is dry as a bone. Heater work great, but I notice when I run heater I have to add coolant more. If heater coil is bad can I just take the two hoses off coil and hook together I know that I will not have heat. But will it effect AC....
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I have a a 1995 GMC Sonoma 5-speed 4 cylinder pickup. When I drive this truck for any amount of time and turn it off for a few minutes (0 minutes - 1 hourish) the truck runs really rough for the first minute and almost dies. Then it will start running normally again after I've putted down the road a block or two. A couple of times this truck has died completely after running rough and won't start again for almost an hour afterwards.
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It's a 95 honda civic with about 140,000 miles on it aka a really old box of metal.
I was driving up to see my friend in ojai when I noticed a random ribbon of smoke (as if someone had left a cigarette burning for a second) wafting in the car. I freaked out, called my boyfriend, and he told me he didn't know anything about cars and to call my dad. I was only 6 miles away from my destination and I didn't see any more smoke and so I kept driving.
I should have called my dad or just stopped driving in retrospect, but the point is that when i got to my destination I noticed that the car was overheating and that there was smoke coming out of the front of the car.
I popped the hood to let the heat escape and got towed home shortly after. Today my dad is telling me that the engine is fried and the car is no longer drivable.
So my question is - how much of this is my fault//would this have happened to this old car anyway? I ask because I never drive, live in NYC, and didn't really notice any real sign of smoke but also because I want to know if i should pay whatever kelly blue book thinks that piece of junk is worth to replace or just chalk it up as a loss since it was such an old car anyway and was bound to die at some point. I also ask because I feel like i have terrible luck with cars and maybe I should never drive again...
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have a 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter engine check engine light came on code say number 2 cylinder misfiring put in shop. they say that they can't get to misfire.truck run great.just that light keep coming on with code (p o 302)
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(code p.o.302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. 1997 nissian pickup 2.4 liter automatic. when I take truck out on highway check engine light come on with code p.0.302.when I get back to town. and cut truck off for maybe 20 minute. check engine light go off automatic I do not have to use a scan tool to erase. As long as I am in town light. say off. when I get back on highway check engine light come back on. have had 3 mechanic look at this they can't get it to misfire. they tell me the fuel and spark are doing what they support to do..do you think maybe computer bad. has 255,000 miles
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I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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I have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
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We have a Nissan Pickup that anytime (in every gear) that the truck reaches 2700 rpm it begins to jerk-feels like you're trying to start it in 3rd gear instead of first. We have had it in a shop with someone who just repairs Nissan's and have been unable to find the problem for over a year. Have looked at the catalytic converter, fuel pump, and air flow meter...nothing has worked...
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I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
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my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
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Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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