Suburban :: 1999 Only Runs For An Hour At Highway Speeds


Jun 29, 2014

Ok so this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban, 5.7L. I have only owned it a few months. The thing is, shortly after I got the truck, we took it out of town, where it died after a little over an hour of driving at highway speeds. I had punched the odometer to watch the gas mileage, and we had run it about 70 miles when it died. We got it to our friend's house, where we were headed anyway, and stayed over, planning to look at it in the morning because it was later than part stores stay open in our rural area. Thing is, in the morning it fired right up. So we headed home, and once again, after about another 70 miles, it shut down and refused to crank.

This time it happened as we were coming back into town, and on a hunch I said that something must be overheating for the problem not to be present until after an hour of road time. So we pushed it a safe distance off the road, and went and grabbed something to eat. After about an hour we made it back to the truck and success! It cranked back up and we made it the rest of the way home. Since I have driven it to town and back, and to my parents a few times, but never more than thirty or forty miles away. It never hesitates to crank, and sounds ok running. Although I will say, I have not owned a truck before or a V8, but it seems to not have the power it should (my thunderbird with a 3.8L had more punch), and I did noticed both times this happened that that problem seemed more pronounced right before it died. But I don't know if I just feel that way just because I am used to driving cars, and the truck is heavier. When it dies, you hear the starter relay click, and that's it.

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I have a 45 min drive to work every day, all highway. Lately on the way home in the afternoon I have been experiencing a surging noise that seems to just happen while I'm doing hwy speeds. It sounds to me like the fan is tuning on and off. Is that possible? It comes on for a few min. And then off again. I have new icp ipr cps. New oil and filter and fuel filter.

Also I'm still having a battery light on and off issue while I'm driving. Is possible the two issues are connected. I plane on doing extensive search for a bad wire this weekend. Batteries and alternator have checked out and are fairly new.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 F250 6.2L Gas Engine Stalls At Highway Speeds

2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.

First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.

After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).

No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.

Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.

Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.

Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.

The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.

Quick recap:

6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded

To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.

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Trying to determine if this is caused by:

Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.

Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?

The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.

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P0280 - ICP circuit out of range - low
P0113 - intake air temp sensor circuit - high input
P0470 - Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction
P0478 - Exhaust pressure control valve - high input

What would make these all code at the same time? Would these not make a noticeable problem driving? And how do I resolve these?

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Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.

Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.

Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.

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I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.

I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.

I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.

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There's a bit of a story here. (Isn't there always?) I bought the tires from one source (whom I would never trust to do any repairs) and had a shop I deal with regularly close to home install them. The morning after the install I went to check the pressure cold and discovered that the right front tire was a standard tire while the others were the LTs which the bill showed I had paid for. So I missed this when I bought them (they threw them in the back of the truck after assuring me all four were the same) and my mechanic missed it when they were installed. Now the tires do look almost identical but the lettering on the standard tire was black both sides while the LTs were white on one side. Of course the standard tire has a lower maximum psi rating.

I went to the mechanic first and he admitted to noticing this but I guess it just didn't register with him to double check to see if it was actually a different tire before mounting it?! I should say I am having second thoughts about using this shop in future, especially after they under inflated the tires at 30psi as well. When I told him I was running 45psi he looked at me like I was from Mars but then, upon checking his Mitchell Manual he says that yes, this truck should have 45 to 65 psi. Anyway, the guys who sold me the wrong tire made good on the problem however they installed and balanced it and I'm wondering if they got this part wrong hence the vibration I'm getting at around seventy-five.

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a) the valve,
b) the solenoid or
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