My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
View 13 RepliesThere is a knocking, hesitation in the wheel rotation? transaxle?
View 4 RepliesI have 2012 Tiguan, I just did a tire rotation as part of my 10k oil change. Afterward I started to hear a weird noise from front tires, especially when I was driving slow on smooth roads, I can hear tires make a noise every spin. The noise speed up with the tire speed. I do the oil change and tire rotation every 3k for my previous car, never had any problem.
View 2 RepliesMy new 2015 Subaru Forester calls for tire rotation every 6000 miles, which seems excessive to me.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1.5 year old Forester. I have rotated the tires twice now, and each time I notice some excessive tire noise after the rotation, for the next hundred miles or so. The tires look OK. Is this a sign that I need alignment? That is, the rotation is equalizing some uneven wear due to a misalignment?
View 19 RepliesMy mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
View 18 Repliesi have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
View 9 Repliesfor the past few weeks when turning corners the outer rear tyre is skipping as if the diff is locked. was thinking of taking it into the mechanincs and maybe replacing it, but now the problem has gone no skipping when turning. could this be an electrical problem mayb a sensor?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Subaru Forester that looses pressure in the front left tire much more quickly than the other 3 tires. For example, I just filled up all 4 tires to 33PSI, and when I checked it a week or two later, the front left was at 26PSI, while the other 3 were still at 32-33PSI. In the past, the tire pressure light has come on because the front left tire managed to get as low as 16PSI, while the other 3 tires were still at ~26PSI. Is it possible to have a small leak that leaks a couple PSI per week?
View 5 RepliesOne of my headlights has stopped working on my 1999 Subaru. Do I need to replace the entire headlight assembly or is it just a bulb? Approximately how much should it cost to fix? 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan
View 10 RepliesI get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
My '99 Legacy is far from quiet, but yesterday I heard a new -- and somewhat alarming -- noise.
Roughly two-thirds of the way through a four-hour drive, I started to hear a rattling or grinding sound coming from the front of the car, perhaps closer to the driver's side than the passenger's. It sounded as if a tin soup can or paint can were hitting the road, but when I popped my head under the car, nothing was hanging loose.
I hear the rattling sound as I begin to accelerate, and only when I have my foot on the gas -- when I let off, it's perfectly quiet. What I haven't been able to determine is whether the noise goes away after I reach a higher speed, or whether the sound of the usually loud engine drowns it out. The noise is most acute around 1500-2000 rpm whether it's in gear, or whether it's in neutral and I'm revving the engine.
I have a 99 Subaru Legacy Wagon with just over 196,000 miles in it. Over the past few days I have had a noise coming out of what seems to be my right front wheel. It is a clicking sound that increases with speed, and is only when I turn and have my foot on the gas. Other than the noise there seems to be no other symptoms.
View 5 RepliesThe car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Subaru Legacy has a couple of rust holes in the hood. Unfortunately it's from the back and not easily fixed without welding.
View 8 RepliesAs I was driving home the other day, I noticed the steering wheel on my 99 Subaru Legacy (130,000+ miles) became considerably stiffer than ever before. I pulled into my driveway (where, incidentally, the wheel loosened up) and checked the power steering fluid. Unsurprisingly, it was low.
I haven't been on the road since, but I did turn the car around in the driveway. Aside from the wheel gently stuttering or pausing initially (it's done this when cold for a while now -- I always assumed it was a loose belt or something) the wheel seemed normal.
I made an appointment with a mechanic and described my symptoms. He said he'd have to take a look but suspected it was a bad power steering pump. Is this the only possibility? Could it be a bad belt or a leak somewhere in the system? If it is the pump, how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
I have a 2005 Cadillac CTS with 23k miles. It was my grandmothers car and is in excellent shape. It has had regular service and has had no mechanical problems. I have noticed recently that there is a humming noise that corresponds with the rotation of the tires. It seems to be coming from the left side and is almost unnoticeable at slow speeds but around 55-60 mph it is very noticeable. I had the wheels rotated with the last oil change and it seemed to stay the same, although the left rear tire is now on the left front. That tire loses pressure and I check it weekly. It's always a few pounds low. Could a bad tire be the cause of the noise? There is no vibration in the steering wheel and it doesn't get louder when I turn the wheel to one side of the other like a wheel bearing might.
View 10 RepliesThe middle heating vents on my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan stopped working recently. The other vents (by the window, defroster and floor) work fine. What might be wrong and how to fix it? The car has nearly 170K miles and I need to keep it running.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Subaru Legacy (with a manual transmission) has almost 200,000 miles on it, and has been almost entirely problem free. Until today. As I drove up a steep hill (which I drive every day), the car didn't feel quite right--as if it was struggling a bit. Then, after reaching the top and driving on for about 4 more blocks, I suddenly heard an extremely loud and heavy clank, at which point the car abruptly stopped. I could turn on the engine, but that was all. The car wouldn't budge; in fact it could not even be pushed to the side of the road if it was put in neutral.The tow truck driver thought it was probably the transmission, but he wasn't sure and also said he had never encountered anything quite like this.
View 19 RepliesI had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
View 10 Replies