Subaru - Suspension :: 1995 - Die While Approaching To Stop - Lack Of Power?
Mar 13, 2014
95 manual trans Subaru Legacy (lack of power), Everyday at least once my car will cut off when I come to a stop. Also, at least once a day it seems like there is no gas pressure. What I mean is I will just be driving along and no gas is getting to where it needs to be. I can pump the gas pedal and the gas engages again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. It doesn't matter what the lay of the land is. I will say it has occured an increased number of times over the past 2 very warm days. It could be it's just getting worse.
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I work for for a non-profic organization. We have a 95 nissan 2.4L pickup, and one of the guys drove a fair distance while overheating because of a coolant leak. He did not quite make if back before the truck died. At first I offered to do the work on it thinking maybe it just needed a new head gasket and some machining on the head surface. But I did a compression test and 2 cylinders were around 30 and the other 2 around 40psi. Also there is coolant in the oil.
Given that the pressure is so low do you think there is much of a chance that the head is not completely warped and needs to be replaced. Is it unlikely that there would be damage to the bottom of the engine, cylinder walls, pistons or warped block? I know one cannot say for sure until the head is removed but I would like to avoid wasting the time because if the truck needs a new head or worse they are gonna just junk it.
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The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
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I have a 2007 LS 460 with about 50,000 miles. Some 18 months ago, at about 35,000 miles,right after a service, I began to experience hesitation/lack of power when accelerating from a stop. Lexus fixed this by doing a software update to the transmission.
All was well till last month, when again right after a service, the car hesitated and totally lacked power , most noticeable from a rolling stop. Revs would very gradually climb to 5,000, with foot flat on accelerator, yet car barely moving. Once speed built up to highway speeds, car reacted normally. Took it back to Park Place Lexus who held the car for 10 days and did a major job changing the cylinder head, I think per L-SB-0033-08.
A month later, the hesitation/lack of power is even worse then before! I suspect the issue is the transmission, and the big surgery on the engine done last month was not required. After nearly being hit trying to merge with traffic today, the vehicle is back at the dealership, and I took their head tech for a drive. He experienced the problem, but did not venture a solution. He told me they take instructions on what to do directly from Lexus.
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I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
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Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
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Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
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My DSG is great until I drive it for a while. Yesterday, for example, I left work and drove twenty miles, mostly freeway. Then I stopped at an all natural drive thru (sonic) and when I let off the break, from a stop, it lunged and sounded like it was going to die. When I pressed the accelerator to move even more the tranny was loud and jerky still. I parked it for a few hours and when I jumped into it, she was fine once again. So it appears that it is only after driving or warming up good that it acts this way. I have an appointment Tuesday to get it looked at, but I doubt they will take the time to drive it that long and say to me, "everything is fine".
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I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
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Bought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
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Took my 2008 Corolla in for its 60,000 mile checkup. It was recommended that the front brake pads be changed as they were getting low. It is now one week later. Now the front brakes creak when coming to a full stop. I have noticed that the creaking seems to happen more on the way back home from work, and seems less pronounced in the morning.
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We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
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T-reg is at the dealer and told it won't be back for at least a week. I noticed water in the rear cargo area under air compressor after rain. Also, rear wiper makes a terrible noise when turned on. Was told that replacement parts are not local and would take at least a week.
Noticed vibration from the steering column area when coming to a stop at a traffic light? Be sure to check your cargo areas!!!
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After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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