1992 Subaru loyale 4WD, was sitting for about 2 weeks straight without use. . . I just changed the oil and spark plugs, and now the buttons for the 4wd and air conditioning/heater do not work. I heard that these are vacuum operated. Is this a quick fix? Will it lead to other problems? Brakes??
View 1 Repliesmy 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Kia Rio. About a month ago, I noticed that the car's AC only works when it's not hot outside. For example, it works when I leave for work early in the morning, but it blows hot air later in the afternoon when the temps outside. Or yesterday, we had an unusually cool day and the AC worked fine all day! But whenever it gets hot outside, the AC will blow hot air! What could be wrong? Relay or compressor clutch, maybe?
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Legacy GT(151k) developed an AC issue. Sometimes it simply does not work when you start the car. Other times perfectly. I typically shut the climate control off(automatic) as I cannot stand hot air blowing on me. I have found it does kick on sometimes latter in drive. Or even just works fine.
I got lucky on my Acura MDX 07 with a similar issue but was able to google a known issue with AC clutch relay. It was fixed for $6 relay from Honda dealer. This part seems more expensive on the Subaru (OEM).
Any steps for electrical diagnosis or subie tips? I am convinced it is not refrigerant related (over my head) since the AC works the same as brand new when working.
I just noticed that my rear heat doesnt work. The A/C DOES work, however. Where to start troubleshooting?
View 9 RepliesI recently purchased a GS350 from auction, thought it ran and drove, got it home, the car had a blown motor. it was an insurance scam from what i gathered. well, car is running and driving now, everything works great not a single warning light on the dash, but i do have a problem with the power windows.
The pass side front and rear windows wont go down, the seat memory doesn't work, and the window switches are flashing... i tried reprogramming them as one of the posts said by lowering the window half way etc that's fine but my pass side window wont go down at all. all fuses check out. and my sunroof works like it should. does this sound like a Module inside the door issue?
I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
View 2 RepliesMy 91 Subaru Loyale is killing me!
When it gets cold, and it is cold in Colorado 9 months a year, my gas mileage drops from 30mpg to 22mpg. It is costing me hundreds of dollars a year!
It is NOT my a/c - yes, I get 22mpg when I run the a/c - but the a/c is disconnected to take it out of the equation. I also lose no power in the cold.
My o2 (Oxygen) sensor is disconnected. It is bad (Engine light is on) but it is fused into the exhaust and I can't extract it.
One mechanic said without an o2 sensor my computer is not able to determine how much gas to squirt in the injectors. So why would it squirt 25% more in the cold?
This same mechanic suggested cutting a new hole in the exhaust and putting a new o2 sensor in.
So my auto locking hubs have not been working for a couple years and I have just been locking them manually as needed. But now I have a boat and I like putting the truck in 4x4 at the landings just for added safety. It's difficult to manually put the truck in and out of 4x4 for just a few minutes when I know I have auto hubs. Plus I recently got aftermarket rims and they cover the manual locks, which can be accessed with a screw driver, but again, tough.
So today I bought the vacuum solenoid valve, whatever its called, and installed it, and they work! But the vacuum pump will not shut off while the 4x4 is engaged. The auto hubs work, my a/c controls work, everything works fine, the only symptom is the pump not shutting off. My a/c stays right where I put it, it doesn't go into defrost or anything, not even for a second, like it used to when my solenoid first started failing. Is the pump running normal? Or is there a leak on the other side of that solenoid? Should I even worry about it if everything else is working?
2004 Tahoe that started with no heat in rear. Checked all hoses and they get hot all the way to back. Replaced rear blend door actuator and worked for a little while. Tonight, took a 90 minute trip and it blew ice cold until suddenly it started blowing heat 45 minutes into trip but then went back to cold after about 10 minutes. Actuator is electric not vacuum. Could it be in the controls where you adjust the temp?
View 5 RepliesMy 99 Subaru Legacy Outback has an issue w/ the air/vent/defroster selections. The lights sometimes don't lite up and when that happens, the selection doesn't work. It sounds like the fan is working but the air is not coming out. If it's a vacuum leak, can I fix it by finding a leaky hose or is it an involved process?
View 1 RepliesI have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
View 11 RepliesI replaced the low beam and high beam on my Subaru, now the low beam is very dim and the high beam doesn't work. Careful not to touch the bulb.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Subaru outbackI got my AC charged since it was not cooling. As soon as I left the shop I had a fog horn noise coming from the passenger side of the car. It comes and goes and even occurs when the defrost is on. Also the car runs rough when the noise occurs. The roughness stops and the fog horn noise stops when I turn off the AC or defrost. I took it to my mechanic and he has never heard that noise before. It really sounds like a fog horn.
View 7 RepliesMy 1999 F 250 5.4 liter. I know I have a vacuum leak because whenever I accelerate the air conditioning coming from the vents switches to the defroster. So my question is how do I go about finding the leak? My hubs in the front are manual so I know I don't have lines going up there. I do have some mechanical capabilities I've changed water pumps alternators brakes etc. But never anything with vacuum lines or a/c.
View 14 RepliesThe temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
View 4 RepliesThe middle heating vents on my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan stopped working recently. The other vents (by the window, defroster and floor) work fine. What might be wrong and how to fix it? The car has nearly 170K miles and I need to keep it running.
View 3 RepliesThe problem with the caller from CA's Subaru smelling like burnt rubber is the actual tires are heating up due to an improper torque split between the tires. Subarus are very sensitive to changes in tire pressure and thus the diameter and will wear the tires down. The driver mentioned 8 sets of tires. He has a bad torque split in the AWD system.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
One of the '92 Pontiac Trans Sports (3.1L V6 engine) had developed a huge thirst - the fuel consumption had doubled along with a serious loss of power. All ignition components - distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and oxygen sensor are new ACDelco's.
ECM is not throwing-up any fault codes but we suspect a vacuum leak since this engine runs better with the air intake covered-up almost completely.
Is there any way to trace and fix this kind of issue? Any vacuum diagram for this car - I couldn't seem to find it in the GM Service Manual... How would you suggest we proceed?
I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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