Subaru - Outback :: Accelerator Revs Up To About 2500 RPMs For A Brief Moment
Jun 30, 2015
I've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
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Left for work yesterday AM on a "dark and stormy" morning. About 1/2 mile down the road lost my accelerator. Engine was running fine, but pushing pedal did nothing. Engine check light "ON". Opened hood and found a small mouse nest on top of throttle body. Came back after work. Looked for chewed cables, none found. Car started up and accelerator worked, drove home, hooked up code reader, P0138: downstream O2 sensor, high voltage. What could it be?Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?
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My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
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It is difficult to explain (and google) but my 1.4 16V Golf 4 does this sometimes: while driving at a steady speed car jerks for a moment and revs drop quite much, a moment later it is fine. It feels like I had stepped on the brakes, but when I actually try that the revs won't drop as much. Like my engine seizes up for a fraction of a second but there is no noise. It has done that actually for 3 years, but it was really rare, about twice a year, but now I have had those jerks three days in a row.
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When I use my automatic transmission to slow my vehicle on steep downhills, the RPMs are much higher than when the engine idles because I use my brakes. The pistons are firing many more times per minute - so am i using more gas? Is the answer different for a standard transmission?
My "mystery vehicle" is a 2011..... outback...
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I've got a 99 Nissan Avinir that runs good (until) you try an rev past 2500 revs, the car losses power until it revs again under 2500, its like its automated to do this or is having intake problems, it was running good before stored it, I put in a new petrol pump, it had been siting for a while. It runs fine under 2500 rpm no problems but wont go over 2500 rpm.
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When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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I've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
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I drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
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I have an '06 Forester XT 2.5 turbo that has, what I can only describe as a stumble around 2500 rpm. The car's maintenance is always up-to-date, and never has anything under 91 octane run in it.This started out when you had the cruise set and now does it all the time whether or not the cruise is used. I've had it to 2 shops including a Subaru dealer that had it for a month and couldn't find the issue. We've been through injectors, coils, maf sensor, etc. to no avail. The trouble code that we're given is a misfire in cylinder 1. We discovered, while trying to find the issue, that there was only 30psi in that #1 cylinder and the valve guides were the issue. So the motor was pulled, heads planed, etc. and new guides installed. Also, put in a new timing belt, and so on, that is usually done when the motor is out.They have done a leak down test and compression tests as well. This is my wife's car and she absolutely love it, so I need to get this figured out.
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The son inlaw just bought a 86 4runner. It's been beat pretty good but I know Toys are good for it. My question is, it rev's just fine in every gear but 5th. Going down a flat highway and in 5th it won't rev over 2500 no matter how much gas ya give it. It has a 22re and 31-9.50's under it. My daughter had a 86 p/u with a 22r (I believe) and 33-10.50's and it had no problem hitting 90. Is there a limiter on these things? Thought i'd ask before chasing vac lines.
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So yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
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Engine runs fine while in park but if put into drive rpm's won't get above 2500 then begins to choke.
-Fuel filter changed
-no vacuum leaks
-disconnected cat
-good spark
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Started a few days ago, There is a faint whistle noise when I am open throttle around 2500rpms. It lasts for about a second and does not occur at any other time. It does not occur under gradual acceleration, or when the car is parked/in neutral and just revving. I tried searching the forums *a little* bit, but my keywords just may have not been right.
My first inkling is that it may be related to flapper, since the rpms seem right and sounds vacuum related to me. But, the unit is completely disconnected (have borla cat-back) and the hose is ziptied, so is this possible? I will try to get a video of the noise later today.
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My 2008 Accent started to stutter between 1500 and 2500 rpms. Now the check engine light has come on, and the engine is idling rough.
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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When I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
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I have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.
That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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