Subaru - Outback :: 2016 - Soft Stuttering Click Instead Of Cranking Occasionally
Jun 25, 2016
My 2016 Outback, 10K miles, occasionally does a weird thing. The dealer is far from us, so I'm putting off taking it in, especially since they will be unable to reproduce this. Every now and then when I try to start it, it does not crank. The dash lights all come on, and dim when I turn it to the start position. But instead of cranking, it just does a soft stuttering click, exactly as if the battery were nearly dead. But if I try a few times, suddenly it cranks perfectly and starts right up.
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I had posted earlier about replacing the harness or at the very least the plug that broke off of the cam shaft sensor on our 98 Subaru Outback. Well, I replaced the plug, and the cam and crank shaft sensors as well and it is still cranking but not firing.
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Intermittent problem: put car in park and key will turn to off position but not "lock" and therefore cannot be removed. Subaru specialist could not replicate problem, Theories include need a new factory cut key, dirty console, cylinder/steering column tumbler, solenoid, switch , but we think it is some connection between the shifting into Park. Speedometer was replaced about 2 years ago--possibly jumbled something ??
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I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback that has been having a sporadic starting problem for almost two years. Occasionally and mostly when it's cold, but not always, the car will sound like it's going to start for a second and then go dead. I will have to turn the key over and over, sometimes many times until it "catches". And so far it's always started, eventually. I have a new alternator and battery, the belts are newer, a rebuilt engine with about 50,000 miles and have had the starter and relay system checked, which was okay. My mechanic, who's been working on Subarus for years, is stumped. He says to wait until it happens again and have it towed in so he can look at the car while it's acting up.
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My Subaru 2000 Outback is dying occasionally when I come to a stop. It will stutter and die. I can restart it and everything is fine. It does not happen everytime, but happens more when I come to stop quickly, less when I come to a gradual stop. What is this?
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115,000 miles, adult driven. Hard cranking, took into dealer. Replaced 4 injectors - cylinder 2 misfiring. Showed me return gas line clogged with brownish material. Dealer stymied.
Now, Subaru headquarters diagnoses replacing all steel fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel pump...full of rust from inside. Tank looks Ok, as does filler neck. Premium gas used always, added Drygas seasonally as needed.
Question: where the heck would rust come from? What can I do to prevent this problem again? Love the car...would like to get 200,000 from it.
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I believe that I have a leaking CV joint boot in my 2006 Outback. Occasionally smell something burning. Lifted hood and had some smoke. Saw leak and a friend stuck a finger into a hole in the boot.
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My Subaru Outback 2016 less than a year old has a right turn signal that works intermittently. I can't come up with a Rhyme or Reason why it works or not. From what people have told me the fog light is doing the same thing. The Subaru mechanics are baffled and can't replicate the problem.
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I have a 2010 Sonata 2.4 with 63k miles and auto trans. Just recently I have noticed a single soft click when braking, just before the car comes to a dead stop. I can hear the click and also feel it in the gearshift.
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Heard this really soft click-then-whistle coming from the dash area, usually shortly after starting the car? I hear it pretty regularly, it doesn't sound *bad* or *wrong*, it is just a really curious sound. Very mechanical in nature, sounds like a small hydraulic or air supply line, almost like a little relief valve. There's no whoosh of air, just kind of a really faint whistle, but very mechanized.
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I have a 2002 subaru forester that will stutter and backfire without throwing a code, but not all the time. i have had it hooked up to a computer to check the O2 sensors and they are fine, it has a new Throttle position sensor, knock sensor, plugs, and catalytic converters (all put on in the last month). I have called a dealership and they have not heard of this happening, so this is my last resort.
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2001 sub forrester. In 2009 it was intermittently stuttering: tuneup, new coil, finally O2 sensor (both) replaced which fixed it. In Oct started to do the same thing. First the back then the front sensor replaced but they commented the flow was low on the catalytic converter but wouldn't say it could be the cause of the sensor issue. Now the O2 sensors are on either end of the converter and the car is starting with early signs already. Is is reasonable that it is the catalytic converter? I am wrestling with just having them do the full tuneup and replace the converter or am I crazy?
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Symptom: Earlier today, I noticed my 2011 Subaru Impreza was stuttering when I turned the wheel completely left or right. Not only was it stuttering, but the battery light would flicker as though the battery was going to die. I made it to Auto Zone to check my battery and alternator, both of which passed.
However, while I was showing him the issue, when I turned the wheel completely right or left, the power steering pump pulley would stop spinning, then struggle to start spinning again. However, the belt would continue to run as it's being pulled by other accessories, but the power steering pulley would still struggle to spin. (Over time, my guess is that friction would eventually burn up the belt and cause it to break.)
Recent Work : I've had the A/C belt, serpentine, and the timing belt (with all accessories) replaced within the last 5,000 miles.I've replaced power steering fluid within the last 2,000 miles. This morning, I tried removing the reservoir cap and turned the steering wheel to remove air bubbles. It didn't work. The hesitation and stuttering is getting worse.
Diagnosis : At first glance, I would guess the power steering pump is failing, but I'm not a mechanic, therefore it's just an educated guess.
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I have a 93 Corolla that won't start. Here was the approximate sequence of events:
Car had been sitting for about 1 week. Went to start it and no cranking sound occurred. I tried repeatedly and heard an occasional click and the dash warning lights would vary in brightness from full bright to very dim. Got my friend to give me a jump start and it cranked/started on the first attempt. Drove around for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery.When I got home I turned the car off and made another attempt and ... nothing. No cranking sound, just a click. So I tried again and all of a sudden it started IMMEDIATELY (first crank)!So I turned it off again, and now every subsequent attempt just causes a lot of clicking, and the dash lights come on but vary a great deal in terms of how bright they are.
So... I'm thinking it can't be the battery. If it was the battery that wouldn't explain why it started immediately following not starting. Seems strange that the jump worked, but perhaps that was just a lucky attempt.
What do you think? Bad ignition switch? Anything else I can test?
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Just the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
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I drove two days ago. Yesterday I didn't drive. I just walked out to start my car and it won't start. It keeps cranking (click noise). The lights are turned on, locks response to my remote, radio works, but I noticed the clock was set back to 12:00 and it's 4:00pm right now.
Two days ago, I noticed my car hesitate a little when I accelerated to 35-40.
I drive a 99 1.8 t Passat
Turns out i needed a battery replace. my battery was having 67 amps compared to 500 requirement.
Question: Does low battery life cause the car to hesitate (like as if the cylinder misfire) at 35-40 mph acceleration?
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I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon that I have owned for about 2.5 years, and I love it. I travel for work and I use rental cars alot. I have noticed in the past year that my brakes feel softer than most cars I drive, but I figure.. they are new cars, and my car is pretty old.
In the past 2-3 months I have notices a pulsing in my brakes...it sounds/feels kinda like the ABS, but I was thinking it would be worth getting my brakes inspected soon.
Then this past week, I totally blew a brake line when I was driving.
The car has about 140,000 miles on it and the mechanic says a brake line alone may not be related to the pulsing sounds...because brake lines usually go because of rust....
So...thoughts on things I should be looking at? What could the pulsing be a symptom of?
if one brake line blew, and it is rust, is the other one not far behind? (this was a new england car up until 2 years ago)
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Sedan with 214,000 miles on it. I have a starter that is less than a year old, a new battery and the battery cables have just been cleaned and inspected. My batter and alternator tested fine. Occasionally (always in the morning) my car won't start. There is no noise, cranking or clicking. All the lights are operational with no dimming. However, today I put the car in neutral and it started right up (after not starting for three tries.)
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I took my 2009 Santa Fe Limited to my dealer this morning to have them take a look at a click / pop sound that I was occasionally hearing from the front. They inspected everything and did not find any issue and could not replicate. No problem...they did not charge me for the inspection. Great.
So I'm driving home and while making a left turn, all of a sudden my Santa Fe stalls without any warning in the middle of the turn! No audible warning what so ever...just a dead pedal, stiff steering wheel and little braking power. The electrical seemed to be fully working, as my radio and instrument panel was working.
When I had drifted to a stop, I checked my instrument panel and I saw the following indicators:
Immobilizer warning light
Check engine malfunction indicator light
Low oil pressure warning light
Charging system warning light
So I immediately call back my dealership and they ask if I'm able to start the car back up and drive back to the dealership. I start the car back up without issue and drive back.
They bring the car into the bay and hook it up to run diagnostics. The results show no errors??? No codes were thrown??? I have a copy of the report. I don't understand how nothing was captured?
CM series 2009 Santa Fe? 108,000 kilometers. I'm really concerned that this happened without any warning and no digital record or log from the diagnostic. What if I did get into an accident because of this stall and had no way to prove that it was not my fault?.
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My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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