Subaru - Outback :: 2006 - Wobble / Shudder While Accelerating
Jan 10, 2012
Took my 06 Outback (106K miles) in to have the right front inner & outer CV boots/axle assembly replaced (one of the boots had torn open and was slinging grease everywhere, so no surprise there). When I was driving home after picking the car up, I noticed what felt like a wobble or shudder that seemed to come from the center or right side of the car (I couldn't tell which). It would only happen while accelerating, kicking in at about 20mph and then seeming to go away at about 30mph. It didn't happen at all while coasting, braking, or decelerating. The more of a load there was on the engine, the worse the wobble/shudder was, and if I accelerated very very slowly it wouldn't happen at all or would be just barely perceptable. I didn't feel it in the steering wheel; it was more like something felt through the seat and the car itself, if that makes sense.
So I took the car back to the shop the next day, and although the owner of the shop said he drove the car and didn't notice anything, he decided to go ahead and do the job over under warranty just in case they had installed a bad axle or had otherwise "botched" (my word, not his) the job. He also rotated and rebalanced the tires on the off chance that's where the issue was. Within about 15-20 minutes of picking up the car the 2nd time, I started noticing the wobble/shudder again, always under the same conditions as I've already noted--only while accelerating, always kicking in at about 20mph and going away at about 30mph, and always worse the more of a load there was on the engine/the faster the acceleration. The only additional info I've been able to glean is that it doesn't ever seem to happen when I drive the car first thing in the morning, but starts to happen as the car warms up.
At a complete loss, I crawled under the car and starting looking and poking around for something that might be loose or knocking around. I was particularly interested in determining if there was any play in the U-joints or some kind of damage to the drive shaft. I didn't notice anything except for this--at different points on the drive shaft there are what I assume are balancing weights welded to the shaft. Well, I found a bare spot toward the rear end of the shaft that seems as if a weight used to be there (although I can't say with 100% certainty). The drive shaft is painted entirely black, as are the weights, except for this one shiny, bare-metal, square-shaped spot. "AHA" I thought to myself...balancing weight broke off (although how that would happen beats the heck out of me since it's fairly well-shielded from road debris...maybe it was just a cr@ppy weld), now the shaft is out of balance, hence the wobble/shudder. However, the more I thought about it, the more I wondered...if the shaft was out of balance, why would it only wobble while accelerating? I understand why it might only do it at certain speeds, but if a shaft is out of balance, shouldn't it wobble/shudder at those particular speeds regardless of whether I'm accelerating, decelerating, or coasting? And why would it not seem to happen until after the car had been driven for 15 minutes or so and had warmed up? Again, it seems like an out-of-balance drive shaft is going to be apparent regardless of the operating temperature of the car.
So, could I be on the right track? And if so, is the fix as simple as welding a new weight on there? Can this be done with the shaft still on the car? I think Subaru considers the shaft a non-serviceable part, but I don't want to trash and replace an otherwise perfectly good shaft for what seems like a pretty easy fix (albeit one that is probably beyond my own abilities).
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, 3.0 H6, LL Bean, 5 speed auto. 150,000 miles. No engine codes.
I bought it took two years privately. I didn't notice during the test drive, but it has a shake/shudder at 18-20mph and at 55-60mph. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration. During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at 55-60 the car can shake quite violently. Probably 50% of the time the 18-20mph shudder doesn't occur. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in - auto/auto sport/manual 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. So it's not engine rpm related. I've had the transmission fluid flushed. I've had two sets of tires. I've had the prop shaft replaced. It still does it, and it hasn't got better or worse. It happens both during straight line and turns.
The engine runs smooth and the gear shifts are crisp and smooth. Our local dealer doesn't know what it is (they suggested prop shaft) and our highly recommended local transmission shop doesn't know what it is. All CV joints have been checked.
I think the big clue here is that it is very vehicle speed dependent; 18-20 and 55-60mph.Could it be something to do with the transfer clutches? Does this transmission have an electronic control computer that needs an update? (This is a first year model). Is there vehicle speed sensor used by the transmission that could be bad but that wouldn't trigger an engine code? Unfortunately I can't disable the rear wheel drive like on the 4 speed transmissions, there is no fuse to do that.
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My 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport recently got new tires. After, I really started to notice clunking noises when accelerating, but they would stop when the brakes were pressed. It is sometimes loud, other times it may be harder to hear. My dad says the car has been doing it for a while now. When I first got the car in 2011, I remember the car would creak repeatedly when slowing down, but it had to be the right circumstances for the vehicle to be noisy when coming to a stop. Now it does the clunking noise (gets faster as the car goes faster) only when accelerating, does not creak or make noise when turning.
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The car had no accelerating power and it was well overdue for new spark plugs and wires. I just replaced them and it's doing much better, however, the engine seems to be shaking a bit when I start it/idling, which is making the entire car shake some too ( the seats, car shifter, etc ) . It's been awhile since I've also replaced the air filter too, which I obviously should have checked but haven't yet. When I replaced the spark plugs, I noticed there was a minor amount of engine oil on the spark plug wires, where they connect to the spark plugs; more notably the front 2(of 4), left and right. I also just changed the oil and there was no oil loss really, other than any minor amounts that get burned off through the miles.
The exhaust manifolds ( y-split ) are okay, but one of the nuts seems to loosen over time, causing a minor air leak there and makes it a tad noisy. Near the back half of the exhaust system, there some water dripping at one of the connections, and at the tail pipe the exhaust smoke is chugging and isn't consistent sounding.
What is still causing this engine shaking and the chugging noises from the exhaust system. The 'Check Engine' light is on, due to other repairs I know I need to make, such as an 02 sensor and fuel level sensor; however, lately it has started blinking too.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Outback that is making a sound that sounds like glass bottles clinking. It occurs when accelerating around 20mph and/or around 40 mph. Can really hear it when there is a load like going up a hill at these slow spends. Dealership did a lot of flushing and lubricating and new filters etc, but that wasn't it. Also replaced my heat shield (yikes$) but that wasn't it. Then they had me run a tank of 93 octane and they didn't fix, so put in a bottle of engine cleaner and it didn't work either.
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I brought my Outback to one mechanic due to overheating and a strange skipping feeling when accelerating. First mechanic said head gaskets needed to be replaced, I wasn't surprised since I have about 142k miles on it and it has been leaking oil, quoted between $1800 and $2000. I took it to another shop, recommended by a friend, and they agreed the gaskets needed to be replaced and there was also a misfire due to the spark plugs. This shop quoted me at $2200-2600 for the head gaskets, spark plugs, all wires and timing belt, all other engine gaskets, thermostat, engine oil and coolant. I still owe a good bit on this car (parents bought on the fly from a less than stellar used lot and now it is my problem), and my thinking is I do not want to bring on more debt by attempting to trade this one in and go for a new car. My question is, do I go with the second mechanic that wants to basically rebuild to top of my engine, or would I be ok limiting the repairs to the head gaskets and spark plugs?
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2006 Subaru Outback
I am driving along and my radio go silent. the AC & the blower go out at the same time. I drop off the car in to the Subaru dealer in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. they call me back in a couple of hours and tell me I have bad radio that might work for a while longer but they recommend replacing it. $350 plus tax & labor.
I get the car back and the scan button no longer works & the buttons stick. does this seem right?
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I have a 2006 Outback XT, which recently started shuddering (like it wants to stall) at idle... At least that's how it started. I noticed it for a few weeks but with no check-engine light, and no error codes cropping up, I kind of ignored it. It then started to stall at idle. Took it to my local guy, who checked all the simple stuff: vacuum hoses, mass air flow sensor, he even removed and cleaned up the throttle body. But the problem persists.
I guess the part that really has me puzzled is the lack of a check-engine light or an error code. With how computer-regulated cars are nowadays, I'm baffled as to how this isn't causing some alarm to go off.
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I thought it was the tired due to the cold weather. But now it is warmer the noise is still there. Bareknuckes previously mentioned wheel bearings as a potential problem. The car is driving (sound-wise) like I have some huge mud-bogger tires on or like crossing a cattle-guard continuously. so loud (in the cabin) that sometime I forget to shift because I hear the humming rather than the engine.
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2006 Subaru Outback. It has around 121000. I bought it at 113,000 last October since my previous 1998 Subaru made it to 240,000. So far I've taken it in for all new wiring and a tune up. And I was assured by the car salesman that the timing belt had been changed prior to my purchase. Anyway, since August I've had a rattly/whirring sound that I am experiencing over 15 mph. It seems to be coming from the back of my vehicle. It sounded like I had a hole in the muffler because it was reminiscent of when I lost my muffler on the highway with my 1998 subaru a few years ago, but this sound is definitely not as loud. The sound does increase in volume at high speeds on the highway but has so far not been as loud as my previous experience. (and the muffler is still there when i look under the car)
When I took my car in to get the oil changed a couple months ago, I asked the mechanic to check and see if he saw anything while under there. They told me it was my heat shield.
Recently the noise started being a little bit louder on the highway so I thought maybe it was my tires since they were very due to be replaced. I bought new tires within the last few weeks and there has been no change with the whirring sound on the highway. Yesterday, I noticed a light thunking sound that started happening between the speeds 10-40mph. It seems to be in the front of my car and occurring with the rotation of my wheels. There are no sounds when Idle.
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I have a 2006 2.5 limited turbo outback wagon. Recently the engine light came on not flashing..the cruise control light is flashing. I live in a very remote area over a hour away from a dealer ship..and having problems finding someone with a diagnostic tool..Am I damaging my car by driving it still..I did just prior to the lights coming on filled the tank and after checking the cap I realized I did not tighten it as I should have.
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Just the other day the radio in my 06 Subaru Outback lost the ability to pick up an AM stations. Is this going to be expensive?
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I believe that I have a leaking CV joint boot in my 2006 Outback. Occasionally smell something burning. Lifted hood and had some smoke. Saw leak and a friend stuck a finger into a hole in the boot.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Outback. When I start it, it makes a constant rather loud rumbling noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I can feel a little vibration through the steering wheel, but when I put the car in neutral the noise/vibration goes away.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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My wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
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Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
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About 20000 miles on it, had dealer service a couple weeks ago. Going to a friends this evening. Stopped at an intersection when accelerating again, there was a shudder for a second, different than the normal motor start up. Then I noticed the CEL light and the Hybrid system light were on. No place to pull off the road so continued on about 1/2 mile to the friends condo and pulling in the parking lot it seemed like the engine was in safe mode, reduced power, so parked it there and got a ride home.
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2006 Prius ...
Symptoms: The shudder feels like going over a "washboard" dirt road. It mimics the normal "cough / hesitation" that occasionally happens when the MG2 switches to the ICE while accelerating, or vice versa at a stop light. However, unlike the normal switching, this is continuous. It ONLY happens when accelerating; as soon as I lift my foot from the gas, the shudder quits. Although it is worse in stop-and-go, it is also noticeable on a clear freeway. It is worse with a cold engine, but continues from speeds of 10 mph all the way up to 80 mph (and probably higher.) The shudder is slower at lower speeds, and faster at higher speeds. It is most dramatic when making a left turn from a dead stop - the whole vehicle shakes. Weather conditions vary, but usually it happens on dry, paved roads, anywhere from 30-degrees to 75-degrees (F).
Frequency: first noticed a few months ago, gradually becoming more frequent. Now, it is almost every time the car is started. (Sometimes it accelerates without any problem at all.)
Diagnostics: The "Check Engine" light has been on for about 5 years (dealerships couldn't find anything wrong and it turned out to be the MG1 battery.) But when this new shuddering happens, the "Check Engine" light blinks continuously until the shuddering quits (i.e. let off the gas or brake.) There are no other indicator lights on (no triangle of death). And the diagnostics mode tells me nothing.
Other Info: The MG2 battery has not been replaced in the entire life of the vehicle. The MG1 battery was replaced, however, about 2 years ago. Regular oil changes have been kept up, along with air filter replacements, brake pad replacements, tire rotations, and all the other standard maintenance. It has had one owner, and is at 255,000 miles. MPG is currently at about 44.4 and has not changed since this problem started.
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My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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