The marker lights and tail lights are suppose to go off when you turn off the car. Unfortunately mine are staying on and the only why to get them to turn off is disconnecting the battery.
View 1 RepliesI have a 90 Honda Accord and can't figure out why the lights aren't working. I have no computer codes and all the fuses are good. The headlights, brake, turn signal lights, hazards and interior lights work fine but the tail lights, license plate lights, and all marker lights won't go on. I only noticed by a chance walk around on the car. I've checked every fuse inside and outside fuse panels. The hazards and brake lights going on makes me think that it can't be a ground problem.
I have spent a lot of time trying different things and checking wires andd fuses and can't find any problems. Is there a relay or something for the marker lights?
2000 Mercury Villager tail lights stay on: This car is supposed to have a tail light relay. But I don't know where it is,accept 'main junction box' but I don't know where that is and which component would be the tail light relay.
View 13 RepliesMy running/tail lights and my dashboard lights don't work. Every other light works though(low/high beams, reverse, break). I don't know much about cars but My neighbor just put in a new relay and the running lights worked fine for about a week. Then the dashboard lights started flickering on & off for a day or two & now I don't have dashboard or running lights at all.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Outback's tail lights leak water (in) whenever it rains or the car is washed. I've already replaced both bulb sockets due to corrosion, even though I take the bulbs out and let the fixture dry out before plugging them back in. (I overlook the fact that some of my tail lights don't work in the meantime.) Two questions: 1. is there anything that can be done about this to prevent the leak? and 2. is is true that new tail lights, and even new Subarus, have the same problem?
View 14 RepliesI found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
View 6 RepliesI have 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE V6, 72k. Out of warranty. Problem is parking lights does not turn off when I turn off the car and take the key out. I have to play with the switch from On to Auto many times in order to turn them off. Sounds like stuck relay. I also have "auto switch off" feature which is supposed to turn off everything when I open the driver’s door AND the key is out. This does not turn off the lights as well. Lately it is very difficult to turn them off, especially when the car has been running for some time. Brake switch as per the recall has been changed in the past.
I went to the dealership, paid $110 for diagnostics and they said I need to replace the junction fuse box in the engine compartment - I found such a box for less and replaced it myself. Problem still exist. After reading some more online, the forums said that the parking relay is integrated in the other junction/fuse box – the one under the left front dash (91950-3K560).
Can this box be opened and fixed? Is there another solution other than replacing the fuse box?
I have a 2006 hyundai accent when I turn the ignition key off the parking lights stay on but its doesn't happen all the time.
View 1 RepliesWhen I park the car with the headlight switch in the "on" position, i notice that after a few minutes, the headlights turn off, but the tail lights do not; they stay on indefinitely.
View 1 Replies1998 Honda CRV ... Had my engine repaired....Everything seems to work but discovered my headlights and taillights won't turn on. The signal lights work fine.
The mechanic says the lights are not burnt out ... so the light switch must be damaged. He did not mention any fuses or other causes. So I buy another light switch (the light switch/signal light combination stick on left side of the steering column) and install it but they still don't work. It seems really unlikely that all 4 fuses (2 x each head lights + 2 x each taillights) would blow all at the same time.
What could be causing this? It seems really simple like they forgot to connect some wiring harness somewhere but the mechanic didn't mention it the first time I took it in for the problem.
We found out that both our tail lights and our left turn signal light were out. The guy at the Honda place said that he thought that the person who put the hitch on our brand new car screwed something up. He said that 3 bulbs were burned out as well as 2 fuses. He replaced the bulbs and fuses and everything has been working. We pulled our light weight trailer about 4 times before the car was inspected. The car passed inspection. Then this problem showed up about a month later after we had pulled the trailer once or twice more. I'm afraid if I take it back to the guy who put the hitch on, he will just say that he did it right. Why didn't the fuses protect the bulbs from burning out? Could the problem be that water got into the hitch wiring. We wrapped the end of the wires in plastic but noticed water got into the area anyway. Why didn't the problem show up right away? Could the problem show up again even if we don't pull the trailer. What should I do next.
View 3 RepliesFirst off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
View 3 RepliesMy '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
View 10 RepliesThis issue came on suddenly. I unplugged the license plate lights- fuse still blew. I don't know where the wire harness is for this group of wires going to these lights to check for frayed or melted wires. I don't see any damage any where. I am severely limited for funds for a mechanic so I need to try and figure this out first myself. Looking for pictures of how I can traces the wires through the car?
View 1 RepliesI have checked all fuses, checked wires on top of steering column all checked out ok. Hazards work but when I press brake tail lights just blink with no brake light but the 3rd brake light works??? Signal switch maybe??
View 14 RepliesHaving issues with the rear tail lights will not shut off when you turn off the car? This all happened at the same time but I'm not sure what it is???
1. The traction control dash light comes on and stays on.
2. The cruise control stopped working.
3. The rear tail lights won't shut off even when the car is off.
He has a 98 F150 4x4 and the tail lights are staying on all the time. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called) but that didn't solve the problem. So now he has been taking the fuse out every time he stops, just so the lights will go off. When he puts the fuse back in, the tail lights stay on all the time, but his widows will not roll down. The windows roll down when the brake fuse is out.
View 2 RepliesHere is the issue:I own a 96 Impreza. Recently, I went to the grocery store and when I tried to leave the car wouldn't start. I had it towed to my house. The dashboard lights and stereo flicker and when I try turning the key no sound. If I try to honk the horn, there is a buzzing sound coming from the passenger side. If I try to turn the emergency blinkers there is a buzzing too. The automatic lock doesn't work .The out side lights don't work either. The "key has been left in" sound does work. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it is working fine. A friend mentioned the ignition switch but would this affect the locks too?
tl;dr: Nothing electric works. The lights flicker and somethings make a buzzing sound. The battery is fine. Could the ignition switch cause the locks not to work?
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
just as the topic states....
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