Subaru - Loyale :: 1991 - Bad Gas Mileage In The Cold
Jan 23, 2013
My 91 Subaru Loyale is killing me!
When it gets cold, and it is cold in Colorado 9 months a year, my gas mileage drops from 30mpg to 22mpg. It is costing me hundreds of dollars a year!
It is NOT my a/c - yes, I get 22mpg when I run the a/c - but the a/c is disconnected to take it out of the equation. I also lose no power in the cold.
My o2 (Oxygen) sensor is disconnected. It is bad (Engine light is on) but it is fused into the exhaust and I can't extract it.
One mechanic said without an o2 sensor my computer is not able to determine how much gas to squirt in the injectors. So why would it squirt 25% more in the cold?
This same mechanic suggested cutting a new hole in the exhaust and putting a new o2 sensor in.
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my 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
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1992 Subaru loyale 4WD, was sitting for about 2 weeks straight without use. . . I just changed the oil and spark plugs, and now the buttons for the 4wd and air conditioning/heater do not work. I heard that these are vacuum operated. Is this a quick fix? Will it lead to other problems? Brakes??
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I just purchased 91 Celica GT and have so far been very pleased except for one major problem. I thought Toyotas are suppose to get great gas mileage?. My car is an automatic with 150000 miles on the odometer. I'm getting around 19 mpg on the expressway. I bought this car thinking about good gas mileage. Is this normal mileage.
I've had the car tuned up (new plugs, wires, cap, etc.) I took it to my mechanic who put it on a computer and the emissions read O.K. and no code faults. I took it to a trans shop to see if the trans. was shifting O.K. and it checks out O.K.and the overdrive is working normally. I even double checked the timing to see if maybe the previous owner set the timing wrong when changing the belt. Checks out O.K.
The car seems to run and idle great with no roughness. Is this gas mileage normal and if not, how to improve it. I get better gas mileage from my 91 SUV explorer...
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Where the heck is the gas cap release. Just bought it to get back home as the jeep needs broken motor mount fixed and had to leave it in town. The subaru is pretty beat up so the gas cap release could be hiding (as in handle gone) ?
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I just bought this car for my daughter. It's in very good shape; runs like a top. But the gas mileage is a lousy 20 mpg. All of my trips are local (no stop and go stuff as we live in the country). A buddy of mine with the same car and similar driving habits says she gets 25-28 mpg. So far I have changed the oil, oil filter and air filter.This can't be the best I can expect, can it?!
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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Gas mileage as stated by Suburu for the 2015 Outback (2.5 engine) is 25-33 with a combined of 28. Mine has never attained that and it has been steadily dropping. Now it is displays as 19 mpg. It is new and has just under 500 miles on it, and I read that the break-in is 1000 miles. That being said, shouldn't I be seeing better MPG than that?
BTW - I am hoping that I am just not being fair (to the car and to Suburu) and that I'll be up in the advertised MPG's soon after I hit 1000 miles.
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I have a 2004 Subaru Forrester with a 2.5L engine (non-turbo) and about 137,000 miles. I usually get just a bit more than 300 miles on a tank of gas. About 3 weeks ago, I took the car for a major tune up (and they also replaced a valve cover around the spark plugs area). After the tune up, the car was running great and I was still getting about 300 miles to the tank. Within the last 10 days, I noticed that the gas mileage on the car has decreased - I am now getting closer to 250 miles per tank. The mechanic rechecked the fuel lines and test drove the car two days ago but did not see any signs of leaks. The weather was near freezing for about a week but has warmed up again to the 40's. My driving habits have not changed and I am driving the car the same way as before. I am stumped as to why the gas mileage would drop that much. What might be happening?
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I've got a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. I went in to a Jiffy-Lube type of place for an oil change, they showed me I had a dirty air filter and I had them change it. I went in averaging around 25 mpg (between high 24's and mid 25's), and after I left, I began averaging around 20 mpg, it currently reads 19.5. I went back to see if they had installed it incorrectly or left plastic packaging on it or something, but all seemed okay.
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Have a 91 Exp 4.0 v6, has a no start problem only in the cold weather. Last year, replaced coil pack, fuel pump, crank censor, this winter...same problem. Just will not start when it is cold. No codes, no ck engine. Checked it today...it has no spark. What could cause this? Fuel filter has also been changed. told him to ck crank position censor connector.
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
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Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
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I have a 1991 Bonne LE with 150,000 miles. Have had GREAT luck with this car but realize it is getting high miles. I recently drove it about 250 mile trip and the A/C worked perfectly staying nice and cold. The next time I drove it, when I turned the A/C on, it got cold after about 5-10 seconds and then it was like you turned only the blower on with no A/C. It does the same thing every time I turn the A/C on, gets cold fast, then just neutral temp with no cold air.
I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.
The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.
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I have a 1991 Honda that has a quirk which is driving me nuts. When I turn off the engine, the key won't readily come out. It's especially difficult when the temperature is below 40 degree's. I've replaced the key at a Honda dealer, which my mechanic suggested, but to no avail. I shake the gear shifter repeatedly which doesn't seem to work. I sprayed lubricant into the key hole. It's frustrating to have to sit and wait a couple of minutes to exit my car.
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
As the title says, when I start the engine cold I get a slight puttering and drop in RPMs followed by the engine revving itself to about 1100 for a few seconds and then normalizing at 600. It has only actually stalled out a few times. This does not happen once the engine is near operating temperature.
Now, I did not notice this issue prior to doing some maintenance on the vehicle (radiator replacement and transmission service) and I've read that this can be caused by a faulty coolant sensor. Possible?
Battery is new.
Also, when I say cold start I mean summer temps here in Michigan. So it's happening anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees F.
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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With the colder weather in the NE, I am experiencing lower mpg with the ES 300h. We have had several cold days here, and my mpg seems to be going down. My driving habits have not changed.
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I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
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I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
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I have a 1991 Silverado C1500 and when I push the heater button to on, the thing just goes absolutely crazy. Instead of one little indicator light, that is suppose to show hot, it lights up all the way across, like a pinball machine that has tilted. The heater air does not get hot and the temp indicator on the dash (separate guage) will not move off of cold. I am going to replace the thermostat, but what is going on with the darn temp gauge?
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