Subaru - Legacy - Sensors - Starters :: 2005 - Starter Engage / Disengage At Start Up?
Oct 27, 2011
This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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Last week, the brake, traction control, cruise, and check engine lights all came on my dash. All but check engine were flashing. The car seemed to be driving fine but cruise would not engage. I drove it to a local mechanic who checked the battery and alternator and reset the computer. He said there was nothing wrong with the car. The next day the lights started flashing again so I made an appt to take it to another garage. This place said my gas cap needed to be replaced (hence the check engine light) and that my vehicle dynamic module was busted. My dilemma is that since picking the car up 4 days ago, and driving roughly 200 miles since, the lights haven't come back on. My current plan is to wait a bit and see if they do but I'm wondering if there's a chance that the VDM is ok.
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I drive a 98 Subaru Forester with ~190,000 miles on it. This car is incredibly reliable and excluding the following incident I have never had a problem with it. The other day I went out to run some errands and when I came out of the store my car wouldn't start. I turned the key and nothing happened. There was no sound from the engine or starter whatsoever, but the radio, air, etc. came on. It had started perfectly fine just an hour earlier that day. I had a friend and with a few strikes from a hammer on the starter the car fired right up so that appears to have been the problem. It's been a few days now and it has started right up every time I've turned the key since. Was this incident just a fluke? Is this what they call a "dead spot" in the starter? Should I replace it or can I get away with just carrying a hammer and push starting if worse comes to worst?
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My 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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My 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i - the engine light is on and the cruise control light is blinking. This happened once before and it went away after I recapped the fuel cap. However, this time it did not work. The car is running ok.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon with 190k. The exhaust(original) has a tiny hole in a pipe that looks like Y and splits to the two mufflers.
Can some thing like this get repaired or do you have to replace the entire exhaust?
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In the past month our 2005 Subaru Legacy has had a vibration(intermittently) where the steering wheel going slightly back/forth 60-70 MPH. I understand a wheel balance can cause this. However intermittently does not make sense. My wife simply speeds up to 80MPH and it disappeared or less than 60. Any clues?
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We bought a 1996 Subaru Outback Legacy Wagon a year ago. It has a salvaged title with some back-end damage that doesn't seem to effect the overall ride of the car. The car really seems to run fine, but the main problem is it randomly won't start. We can drive it short or long distances. It will start just fine 5 to 10 times in a row and then - BAM - we go to leave somewhere and it won't start. It makes a sound like it is trying to turn over, but it just doesn't have that last spark to start...until you wait approximately 10 minutes, then it starts again like nothing happened. We changed the fuel filter thinking it might have a blockage, but to no avail. We live in Portland, Oregon, so we get all four seasons of weather. The temperature does not seem to be of any consequence.
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My 2005 Legacy GT(151k) developed an AC issue. Sometimes it simply does not work when you start the car. Other times perfectly. I typically shut the climate control off(automatic) as I cannot stand hot air blowing on me. I have found it does kick on sometimes latter in drive. Or even just works fine.
I got lucky on my Acura MDX 07 with a similar issue but was able to google a known issue with AC clutch relay. It was fixed for $6 relay from Honda dealer. This part seems more expensive on the Subaru (OEM).
Any steps for electrical diagnosis or subie tips? I am convinced it is not refrigerant related (over my head) since the AC works the same as brand new when working.
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In the couple of days since my last oil change, my 2003 Subaru Legacy (161K miles) won't start after sitting for some time. It turns over and runs for literally one second, then dies. It is standard transmission. If I have it out of gear and apply gas, it will start and stay started, but if I take my foot off the gas, it stops. I don't have to apply a lot of gas (not floor it). Once it is warmed up it runs fine. It seems to start fine if it sits a little while, but anything over an hour, and it doesn't start. One place I read said it could be the security system, with my key needing to be re-programmed. Other possibilities seem all over the map.
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All lights/radio etc. come on but my car won't start at all. There's a leak in the engine (see photo) and I'm wondering if this is the problem...or an additional problem and if it's something I could fix on my own.
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I recently bought a Subaru Legacy 2000. When I first got it it started fine, however when I leave it sit for overnight or up to a week it doesn't like to start. It will click, and eventually anywhere from 5 minutes to a half an hour it will eventually start right up.
I replaced the battery and the connections after talking to a mechanic... And after both of these fixes it started just fine for a few days. But I am suspecting the starter. The only issue is once I have had the car going after the initial trouble it will fire off just fine for the rest of the day. Other than the starter could it be moisture in something? Like I said it only will do this when it sits over night or longer?
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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2003 Passat 1.8t FWD.
My buddy is having a wierd issue that just recently started after it's gotten cold out. The car would not start for him so he had me look at it. Attempting to start there's no sound from the starter at all. Battery is fine. When I shift in and out of a few gears, the starter engages and the car starts. Stop the car. Attempt to start it again and nothing. Shift through the gears some more and the car almost starts but quickly dies. Shift some more, start, running like a champ.
What is it about shifting through the gears that allows the starter to engage and the car to run again?
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My Nissan sentra will start on the coldest day, but now that it's getting warmer it sometimes won't start! Turn the key and I have power to everything, but engage the starter and nothing! Not even a click! Try and try and eventually it starts. What could cause this??
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I have a 2011 Legacy Sedan with 40K miles. Three weeks ago, I drove the car 25 miles in 90+degree heat on the highway. I parked at a store, did not use the electronic parking brake and when I returned to the car 5 minutes later and started it, the dashboard BRAKE light was flashing. The brake was not engaged. I tried to engage and release it, but it would not engage, when I pushed the button the car 'chirped'. I drove the car home and garaged it. The next morning (after a cooler evening) the light no longer flashed. At that time I was able to engage and release the electronic parking brake and it worked as designed.
A similar sequence has occurred on four different occasions. When I start a cool car, no light. When I start the car after it's been run for a while, I'm getting the flashing light.
I've checked the brake fluid and it's fine. I've checked the OBD and it shows no codes.
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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