Subaru - Legacy :: Rear Tire Skipping When Turning Corners As If Differential Locked
Nov 15, 2013
for the past few weeks when turning corners the outer rear tyre is skipping as if the diff is locked. was thinking of taking it into the mechanincs and maybe replacing it, but now the problem has gone no skipping when turning. could this be an electrical problem mayb a sensor?
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When the stepper motor goes, does it fell like the all the diff's are locked up when you are turning?
This is happening to my 04 now with 75 000 km on her. What part do I tell the dealer to get in for me?
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I've got a 2002 subaru legacy wagon, 150k miles. Over the past year or so (a real guess, can't really remember when it started) it's developed a wowowow noise that happens when turning. The car has to be moving - just turning the steering wheel while stationary does not make any noise. I can't tell if it's only coming from left or right side of the car or the front or back. It also doesn't happen when driving in a straight line. The wow's are faster when the car is going faster but the frequency is very roughly 4 per second at 40 mph. The noise itself is pretty low and grumble, and kind of sounds like James Earl Jones saying "wow wow wow wow".
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I have a 99 Subaru Legacy Wagon with just over 196,000 miles in it. Over the past few days I have had a noise coming out of what seems to be my right front wheel. It is a clicking sound that increases with speed, and is only when I turn and have my foot on the gas. Other than the noise there seems to be no other symptoms.
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When I turn over bumps not on corners I hear nothing lol ..I just changed the tie rods for other reasons and nothing is loose in the front end now..But this sound is from the box of the truck like something is in the box bumping around when turning corners over bumps..Its frustrating and I cant find out what it is..Only happens when turning over bumps ?
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My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
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'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
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i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
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I bought a new 2011 Outback about 3 weeks ago, and I have around 1500 miles on it.
A couple days ago I started noticing a clicking noise near the right-front wheel area whenever I turn for the first time after I start the engine (releasing handbrake, shift to Drive, etc). This happens only one time per drive, and mostly after I turn to the right for the first time. After hearing that sound, the next time I will hear it is only after I park and shutdown the engine and restart.
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My wife has tribeca B9 (2006) and the rear diff light comes on when she is driving and goes off when she comes to a stop. It does not flicker and the elec connector looks OK, and the oil looks good and is full. Can this be caused by uneven tire wear or the rear tires being out of alignment?
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I hear a thumping sound in the rear of my '97 Legacy wagon (Brighton model). The sound occurs when the car moves. Once the car has been running for several minutes the sound goes away. What is the cause and fix?
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I have a 96 outback which all of a sudden has no awd. The rear differential looks as though it has leaked some. I don't know if it has a bad axle, or if this loss of fluid is the culprit..... Where to start?
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When I make sharp turns forward left or right and when I back up and turn left or right my car feels wobbly/grinding. My mechanic says he thinks it "may" be the rear differential needing servicing. I have 135,000 miles. Does that sound right? There is no noise associated with this sensation.
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I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon with almost 300,000 miles. After driving it for almost any length of time (long enough to bring it up to operating temperature) I'll park it, shut it off, walk away, & about 10 minutes later it will emit a loud squeak from the center rear underside of the car, almost as if something shifts position when the car heats up, then shifts back when its cooling off.
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Recently I have been hearing a humming noise that increases with speed. I don't get it when the car stops. I think it's coming from the rear but only when the car is moving and steadily increases in volume as speed increases and comes down as speed comes down. It's not coming from engine or transmission but coming from the rear wheels. Could it be a bearing? or both bearings? Is hard to make out if it's left or right of the windows when the windows are closed. Car drives great and has mileage in the 80's
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Wondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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Subaru released a TSB about the rear output bearing locking up if the gear oil in the transmission gets too low. This seems to have happened to me last week when I did a 70mph 360 on the freeway and went in the ditch.After dragging it on and off the tow truck twice, the rear wheels came loose. It was almost 3 quarts low on gear oil, so i filled it up and drove it home.There is a severe leak from the rear output seal, which is cracked. Looking at the pictures, it seems the driveshaft got hot and locked up inside the extension housing, and not the bearing (which is farther inside the housing.) My question is, can I sand the burr off the driveshaft, replace the seal, and call it good? Or, should I pull the transmission apart and replace the bearings?
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I have an '08 T2 and this issue may be unique to this new version of the Touareg. Here's the deal...
Let's say I am driving at 30 MPH on city streets. When I apply the brake, I "feel" what I would describe as periodic engine braking occurring simultaneously. I also experience this periodically in all sorts of driving situations when I am not accelerating. In other words, the truck doesn't always just coast freely. This "feeling" doesn't really slow the truck, it's just a feeling like some sort of resistance is taking place. I have also described it as a hum but it's only slightly audible.
I am in DRIVE with the A/C running . I have 800 miles now but it's been happening since I picked up the truck. Oh - no, the parking brake is not on and the differential is not locked.
When I took my truck in to have the CD changer installed, I tried to describe this to the tech. They ultimately said it is probably one or more of the various pumps. It was also suggested that it may be the A/C compressor but I haven't been able to determine that it truly the case.
I am becoming so frustrated with this that I am considering going to another VW dealer in a friend's car to test drive another T2 and see what it does. I need to figure out if this is just something a T2 does or mine is screwed up.
Again, there have been so many changes in the 2008 model so it may be unique to this new design. Unfortunately, they just came out so I don't know how many owners are out there yet.
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I have started to notice a crunching sound seams to be coming up thru the front wheels only when turning tight corners this seams to be related to outside wear to both front tyres.....
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Just picked up a used 2009 RX350 and noticed the low beam light output is terrible. Very difficult to see, especially when turning corners. Also have a bit of fogging of the headlight assembly covers which I assume can be cleaned up. What is the easiest way to increase light output?
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