Subaru - Legacy :: Ratcheting Type Of Sound And Feel Pulsations In Pedal When Step On Brakes
Aug 17, 2013
I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy sedan with a 2.2L engine with AWD. When I step on the brakes I hear a ratcheting type of sound and feel pulsations in the brake pedal.There is no problem with brake performance that I have noticed. We have replaced the front rotors and front brake pads.We also replaced the rear passenger side brake caliper. It still makes a loud ratchet/groaning-like sound. It makes the sound when you first start braking after starting the car and intermittently while driving. It's not constant when you step on the brakes.
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I have the same problem noted on last weekend's show with another Subaru owner. My car has a burning type smell (burning rubber or burning oil) only when driving uphill on a mountain road. I'm not sure the answer given on the show is correct about the rubber under the carpet smelling because of the catalytic converter. The smell comes through the venting system.
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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My mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
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I have a 2000 subaru legacy outback with about 160,000 miles.
The brakes are spongy. The reservoir is full. I took it to my regular mechanic, and he said the lines are good. He also said that if it were the master cylinder, after pumping the brakes up the peddle will sink to the floor, which it is not doing. So he's stumped.
What this would be? I've had several scares when I had to slam the brakes and wasn't sure the car would stop!
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Almost every morning, when I put my car in reverse and then step on the accelerator, I hear a sharp "clink" sound from the front of the car. After I've backed from the driveway to the street, I put the transmission in drive and step on the accelerator again and often hear the clink again. It doesn't happen EVERY time, but has become very common in the mornings. It only started doing this within the last month or two. I haven't observed any other problems.
The car has about 80k miles on it and has not had any transmission work done.
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About a year ago, the radio in my car starting working intermittently. First a speaker or 2 went out. Then the radio would play only occasionally (usually on warm days). Finally it quit altogether. The radio got power and showed stations or cd tracks, but there was no audio. We looked at fuses, wire connections, speakers, etc. Finally I got a new radio, and once installed, there is still no audio.
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I hear a thumping sound in the rear of my '97 Legacy wagon (Brighton model). The sound occurs when the car moves. Once the car has been running for several minutes the sound goes away. What is the cause and fix?
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Today while driving form CT to Maine my 2004 Legacy started making a buzzing sound. It was on the right of the dash near the corner of the windshield. It only happened once we went around 75-80 mph (Mass Pike, we were going with the traffic flow). I called the dealer since I got the car only a month ago. They said they'd have a hard time figuring it out since they can't take it up to that speed. My husband thinks it might be the speedometer cable.
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Mr Squeaky is a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Here are the signs and symptoms that my car wants to die. The car makes sound like grinding metal after I drive it for a good 10-15 miles. It starts up when I turn to the right. It does not seem to matter how slight the turn to the right is but it seems to not start up until I head in that direction a little bit. Once it gets going, it does not stop, and squeals incessantly. I can make it stop by putting my foot on the brakes but the noise almost always starts right back up as soon as I take my foot off the brake. Speed of travel seems to have no effect on this noise. If I park my car for 5 min and then drive away, again the noise normally goes away. My heat gauge never goes into the oh crap zone, and my mechanics swear my brakes are good.
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For the past 3 yrs only in the winter when its around 30 outside where my car is parked after i start the car and put it in reverse to back up i have no brakes, the pedal is hard, i have to put direct pressure and hold it down til it softens to the floor after about 5 to 10 seconds then i have brakes for the rest of the day. But this winter and its still cold out it has been happening intermittently during the daytime going front or back i have to try and pump the brakes til the peddle softens or i just press the peddle hard and hold til it softens and then it works takes about 3 to 4 seconds in the middle of the day. Only happens when i first start up the car. I have replaced the pads, rotors, master cylinder, flushed the whole system and the latest money drop was replacing the booster.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I have a stock GTI MKVI and now if I turn or cut the wheel sharp to park (all at slow speed) I get a ratcheting sound from up front. It is not the suspension "clunk" that some lowered cars get.
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I have a buddy who has an 01 B5 w/ 1.8t and 5 speed. He asked me to try and find out why it has been making a mysterious noise. I do all my own work, so I know a few things, but this noise has me stumped.
On startup, it will make an almost ratcheting kind of sound. Clattery, grumbly ratcheting sound... Goes away in a few seconds. It will also occasionally do this on acceleration.
Now, I am not hugely familiar with the 1.8t (in fact, my VW experience is largely a B4 TDI) so I'm not sure where to start.
One note though- I changed his oil for him, and the first startup right after the oil change the sound almost didn't happen at all. From then on resumed its obnoxious habit.
What this could be? Engine? Tranny? Something else? I didn't get a response over in the 1.8t area so I'm trying here.
Just recently his turbo has decided to contribute very little to power. You can hear it spool a little bit, but it's not what it used to be.
Just recently he had to have his intercooler replaced due to running over a semi tire. I have yet to pull his belly pan to look for loose fittings.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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I have a 2005 F350 SD with 217K. It's got a Magnaflow aftermarket exhaust and newer OEM turbo. When I'm driving uphill and around 1800 RPM or higher, the engine makes this weird ratcheting sound when I let off the gas. It almost sounds like air is backflowing somewhere. It doesn't do it on level streets or downhills or when I'm below about 1500 RPM. The sound is not a metal on metal type sounds. It literally sounds like high pressure air backflowing somewhere or not being discharged properly. Also, I bought the truck used a couple months ago. So I'm not sure of all of the aftermarket upgrades done to the engine.
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My 1998 Forester suddenly began pulsing / crunching sound, from the front brakes. I had just performed full brake inspection 2 weeks before. So I removed the ABS fuse (20 amp), and the problem disappeared. Of course the ABS light is also on now, but I can drive the car. I disconnected the 4 wheel sensors from the car harness, connected an oscilloscope to each, and spun the wheels pretty fast. I get 150 MV peak-to-peak from each sensor. Must I replace the "tone rings", or just wire-brush them? Replacing the rings are a BIG job, and the wheel bearings & seals must be replaced, since they don't survive pulling out the axles from the steering knuckle (front), or strut assembly (rear).
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Today on my 1-year-old RX 350:
moonroof makes a slight "ratcheting" sound when I raise or lower it,though Roof slides open and closed perfectly.
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I recently had my rotors replaced and when I left the garage I noticed I had to press the brake farther than normal. A few days later, I have to press the brake pedal almost all the way to the floor. My brakes sound like there is an air leak when I push the pedal. Sometimes it stutters at the top of the push.
First question is what could it be? The second question is, could this have been caused by the rotor replacement? Seems awfully coincidental.
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I have noticed only recently a strange "ping" sound that is coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound is exactly what two pieces of rebar sound like hitting together. The car only makes the sound once while slowing down at around 3mph and once again while accelerating at the same speed. The should can not be heard under heavy breaking however. I have jacked the car up and pushed on the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9 oclock to see if it was a bad wheel bearing and it was not. It is a 2010 Subaru STI with 45000 miles. I am wondering what this could be.
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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