When I turn my engine off and remove the key from the ignition, my front and back parking lights remain on. So every time I turn off my car I have been disconnecting the negative post so the lights turn off. How do I resolve this? 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 legacy wagon (245k miles) that has a light issue. The running lights and low beam lights do not work and the dash parking break light will not go out. Earlier I had just the low beams not working. They were both blown and I replaced them about two weeks ago. Now they are out again and the dash parking break light stays on. I checked the fuzes and they look good.
View 8 RepliesThe auto delay feature has begun to fail. Sometimes the parking lights stay on for at least an hour. Sometimes they stay on even after pressing the remote lock 2x and hear the chirp. So far have caught this prior to dead battery situation.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 hyundai accent when I turn the ignition key off the parking lights stay on but its doesn't happen all the time.
View 1 RepliesSo a bit of background, I'm not the original owner, it has about 190,000 miles on it, and is almost definitely due for an oil change. Anyways, I was driving home, the car was running fine, I got into the left turn lane and had to come to a complete stop in the intersection. As I was about to turn, I felt the steering lock up, and there was no throttle response, I was in a bit of a panic so I didn't see if the engine shut off but several warning lights went on including the check engine light. I turned the key into the off position then restarted the car and it worked fine for the small remainder of the drive. What caused this or how I could prevent it from happening again?
View 3 RepliesI have a blizzard plow and had a shorted wire which blew the plow marker lights to pieces. Fixed short but truck parking lights still stay on. Only way to turn them off is removing the fuse. I have checked light relays by fuse panel and under the hood.
View 14 RepliesWhat would cause the vechile to die randomly, while driving? have check all ground wires, coolant, spark plugs, air filter, and changed fuel filter. no check engine lights come on.
View 2 RepliesMy mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
View 18 RepliesI have a 1990 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon with almost 300,000 miles. After driving it for almost any length of time (long enough to bring it up to operating temperature) I'll park it, shut it off, walk away, & about 10 minutes later it will emit a loud squeak from the center rear underside of the car, almost as if something shifts position when the car heats up, then shifts back when its cooling off.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
Today I had a flat tire. Noticed because the warning light was on. Fixed flat. Tire pressure light is off. Now the brake light is blinking. The cruise indicator is blinking. The skid control light is on and the check engine light is on.
View 3 RepliesHitting a diagnostic dead end here - car wants to overheat/drink coolant on hot days when inevitably the A/C is on. A/C fan never comes on. Car was in a front-ender accident about 18 months ago, could be related, unclear. The A/C condenser was damaged then, but I replaced it, recharged the system, and the A/C now blows nice and cold. I've swapped the fans and the same fan works fine when plugged into the other side. I've swapped the fuses.
I've taken a working relay (as the other fan stops when I pull the relay out) and rotated that relay thru the other 3 sockets with the engine and A/C on. Still no movement. So I'm a bit stumped puzzled as to what to consider next, and then a part of me started to wonder if the fan is the red herring, and might I have a radiator issue which is the real culprit. I don't see any leaks. I had the thermostat fail about 1-2 months after the accident but a shop replaced it and this overheating issue really only flared this summer. This is a 99 Subaru Legacy SUS Sedan, the 30th Anniversary edition, with 189K+ miles, so minimal expenditure is the game plan.
My running/tail lights and my dashboard lights don't work. Every other light works though(low/high beams, reverse, break). I don't know much about cars but My neighbor just put in a new relay and the running lights worked fine for about a week. Then the dashboard lights started flickering on & off for a day or two & now I don't have dashboard or running lights at all.
View 1 RepliesJust wondering if it's my car or does Subaru have a light issue going on with the 2011 Legacy's??
I bought my car 1/31/11 (so I'm still under warranty... barely) but here is my history with bulb replacement:
3/22/12 -- 14,251 miles -- driver side headlamp out
6/27/12 -- 17,322 miles -- passenger side headlamp out
6/19/13 -- 27,783 miles -- driver side headlamp out (although was taken in for a passenger side, side marker light)
7/16/13 -- 28,987 miles -- passenger side marker light out (the one that they didn't replace on 6/19/13)
1/22/14 -- 33,759 miles -- driver side head lamp and side marker out
Six bulbs in under 3 years???? Granted these have all be replaced under warranty but the next one won't be despite the fact it's an ongoing issue and that concerns me. I know I'm spoiled because I had a 2002 Honda before the Subaru and in 12 years (mom is now driving it) and 100+k miles I've replaced 1 burnt out bulb.
Last week, the brake, traction control, cruise, and check engine lights all came on my dash. All but check engine were flashing. The car seemed to be driving fine but cruise would not engage. I drove it to a local mechanic who checked the battery and alternator and reset the computer. He said there was nothing wrong with the car. The next day the lights started flashing again so I made an appt to take it to another garage. This place said my gas cap needed to be replaced (hence the check engine light) and that my vehicle dynamic module was busted. My dilemma is that since picking the car up 4 days ago, and driving roughly 200 miles since, the lights haven't come back on. My current plan is to wait a bit and see if they do but I'm wondering if there's a chance that the VDM is ok.
View 19 RepliesWhen my car is off, both the front side lights and the back side lights stay on. What I should do?
View 3 RepliesMy old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 Replies1995 Subaru Legacy wagon.
If I drive up a steep hill for 5-10 minutes, the engine will smoke copiously.
It's fine when I drive 200 miles over lightly rolling terrain.
The temperature gauge doesn't get above medium.
It's been doing this for at least two years (since I bought it from a friend).
What's the story?
So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
View 4 RepliesAs the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200