My Subaru was violently shuddering. I think the cold weather has made it worse. It seems to just be when I accelerate. I'm not sure if it's the CV joints or the rack and pinion.
View 1 RepliesJust wondering if it's my car or does Subaru have a light issue going on with the 2011 Legacy's??
I bought my car 1/31/11 (so I'm still under warranty... barely) but here is my history with bulb replacement:
3/22/12 -- 14,251 miles -- driver side headlamp out
6/27/12 -- 17,322 miles -- passenger side headlamp out
6/19/13 -- 27,783 miles -- driver side headlamp out (although was taken in for a passenger side, side marker light)
7/16/13 -- 28,987 miles -- passenger side marker light out (the one that they didn't replace on 6/19/13)
1/22/14 -- 33,759 miles -- driver side head lamp and side marker out
Six bulbs in under 3 years???? Granted these have all be replaced under warranty but the next one won't be despite the fact it's an ongoing issue and that concerns me. I know I'm spoiled because I had a 2002 Honda before the Subaru and in 12 years (mom is now driving it) and 100+k miles I've replaced 1 burnt out bulb.
When my car is off, both the front side lights and the back side lights stay on. What I should do?
View 3 RepliesI have a '95 Subaru Legacy L Wagon AWD 5-speed manual shift. There a new noise that seems to be coming from the front half of the car. I can't really describe the noise, but it only happens when all three conditions are met. If they are, the noise is continuous.
1.) The car has to be in gear--not neutral. But it doesn't matter which gear. I tried revving the engine in neutral, but nothing happens.
2.) I have to be accelerating on the gas petal. If I let off the gas--even if the engine and vehicle speed haven't yet dropped--there's no noise.
3.) Engine speed needs to be at or above 2,000 RPM. It gets louder at higher engine speeds, but it's pretty much proportional to the "normal" noises at higher speeds.
What might be causing this?
i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
View 5 RepliesI bought a new 2011 Outback about 3 weeks ago, and I have around 1500 miles on it.
A couple days ago I started noticing a clicking noise near the right-front wheel area whenever I turn for the first time after I start the engine (releasing handbrake, shift to Drive, etc). This happens only one time per drive, and mostly after I turn to the right for the first time. After hearing that sound, the next time I will hear it is only after I park and shutdown the engine and restart.
'02 Ranger XLT, extended cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC, 5-speed manual, 114K miles.
Problem has occurred twice. After extended run time and engine fully heated, when I get home and shut it down, then attempt to restart within a short period of time, the engine starts very briefly, then begins shuddering violently and dies within a few seconds. Re-attempts to start result in a very shuddering attempt to run for a couple seconds, and then it dies. After a couple of re-attempts, it doesn't even attempt to start; just cranks over with no results. Has to sit about 7-8 hours before it will restart.
No OBD II codes; Passed, no codes shown. I purchased a crank position sensor, but haven't installed it yet: just a stab in the dark after hearing other people's experiences with other vehicles.
First occurrence followed a lengthy trip in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Shut it down when I got home, then attempted to re-start after a few minutes to run a short errand. Sat for two days without any re-attempts; then restarted and ran fine on first try a couple days later.
Second occurrence followed a couple hours of hitting yard sales with the neighbor, in which time I did not shut the truck down; just left it idling while we perused the sales, for fear it wouldn't re-start. Reckon it's a good thing I did, 'cause when we got home and I shut it down and attempted to leave again shortly thereafter, it malfunctioned as described.
Retries failed after sitting 4-5 hours, but after eleven hours of sitting, it started right up and ran normally.
I have a 2006 Outback XT, which recently started shuddering (like it wants to stall) at idle... At least that's how it started. I noticed it for a few weeks but with no check-engine light, and no error codes cropping up, I kind of ignored it. It then started to stall at idle. Took it to my local guy, who checked all the simple stuff: vacuum hoses, mass air flow sensor, he even removed and cleaned up the throttle body. But the problem persists.
I guess the part that really has me puzzled is the lack of a check-engine light or an error code. With how computer-regulated cars are nowadays, I'm baffled as to how this isn't causing some alarm to go off.
I purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester about 4 years ago. Within 48 hours of buying it from a dealer, the check engine light came on showing the PO420 code. The car was running fine without any problems and it was suggested to us by 2 independent mechanics that Subaru is notorious for throwing this code, so we didn't investigate it any farther besides doing a fuel system clean/flush that was offered to us by the dealer.
Lately, the car has started sort of shuddering during acceleration so we figure it's time to look into this more, but just trying to figure out where to start. From what I understand, this model has 2 catalytic converters and 2-3 O2 sensors. I've been reading as much as I can on the topic and watching videos trying to figure out our options and whether we should try replacing the O2 sensors first or just go for replacing the whole shebang. I know we cannot afford the pricey repair of it all right now so the car will have to sit for quite some time before we can do that; however, if we can figure out how to do it ourselves, we could get it done much sooner.
My questions are:What is the likelihood that this could still be an O2 sensor issue considering the shuddering when accelerating?
What other signs do I look for besides rattling in the cats to know they might be bad?
One of my headlights has stopped working on my 1999 Subaru. Do I need to replace the entire headlight assembly or is it just a bulb? Approximately how much should it cost to fix? 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan
View 10 Replies I drive a 2000 Subaru Legacy and the radiator fan does not always come on. This sometimes makes the car run hot but has not (yet) put it into the "danger zone" overheating. It seems to happen if the car is in stop and go traffic and it's hot outside. If I'm driving down the highway or the weather is cool it doesn't happen.
I checked the fuses (yes, even the ones under the hood) and they are all fine. I am just curious if there is a sensor that could be the problem or if it is more likely the thermostat. It didn't quite fit the descriptions I found for thermostat but I'm a broke college student trying to keep an old car on the road, not a Subaru mechanic
Over the last several months, the frequency with which my 2007 Subaru Outback is "shuddering" when I accelerate from a stop has been increasing. It feels like driving over a cattle grate -- a vibration that lasts for just a few seconds, and occurs in the 35-45 mph range. Now is happening on a daily basis, a couple of times per day. Based on some internet searchers, I concluded this might be a torque converter problem. Took it to the mechanic today and, of course, couldn't reproduce the problem with them present. They replaced the transmission fluid with a synthetic fluid and replaced the transmission filter.
View 8 RepliesI have a really weird problem with my car. Every time that I apply the brakes, I get a bit of a shudder. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we checked the brake pads which were fine and the bearings were good as well. What could be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesI need to lube the speedo cable on my Suburu legacy 1993 does the cable come out from the speedometer end.?Also what the best lube to use for the cable,also any pitfalls to avoid.
View 1 RepliesThe timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
147213874510541690085.jpg
1040x1857 841 KB
I own a 1996 Subaru Legacy (2.2L), and when I was almost home, my car died. I was going about 30 mph, and without any warning, I lost power to my headlights, my gauges, my power steering - everything. I lost all power to my car. When trying to start it again, nothing happens when I turn the key - no lights, no fuel pump...nothing. It has to be something electrical (obviously), but I would like to know what it is before I send it off to the mechanic.
View 9 RepliesThe other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
View 6 Repliesevery 2 to 3 weeks the car will stall while driving and acts like it's out of gas. 3 tows and no mechanic can figure out what the problem is and the car starts the next day.
View 1 RepliesThe check engine light (CEL) came on in my 2002 Subaru Legacy as I was exiting the highway. As I slowed to merge with traffic, my car then began bucking. I took the car to a local repair shop (no independent Subaru mechanics in my area and I've head bad things about the dealership) today and the CEL code indicated a misfire, so the shop mechanic ended up replacing the spark plugs, wires, ignition coils and battery. The car is running on 2 cylinders, so now the mechanic is considering replacing the timing belt. If it were timing-related, I would think that all 4 cylinders would be impacted. Besides, I had the timing belt, spark plugs, and head gasket replaced less than 2 yrs ago. What else it could be?
View 7 RepliesI've had my Subaru for 8 yrs and never had a problem with the A/C, even in 100+ degrees of Arizona. I always had to turn down the temp. I've been in Maryland for nearly 4 yrs and it's worked fine even on very hot and humid days. In March I noticed that it didn't seem as cold as usual. I also didn't hear the compressor coming on when I turned it on. Mechanic checked it out and said the compressor was working but it probably just needed freon (I hadn't added any since I bought the car). They added a dye in case there was a leak and said I'd be able to tell in 2 weeks if it was leaking, but that the dye is greasy and might actually fix a leak if it's just due to a dry seal somewhere. They didn't charge me for the freon. (These are honest mechanics. I've been with them for several years and they've had numerous chances to bilk me but never have.)
Couple weeks went by and it seemed okay, though maybe not quite as cold as when I picked it up. Sometimes I'd drive and it would be very cold so I'd think it was fine, but a few minutes or some time later I'd know for sure it wasn't right. The weather vacillated between hot and cold too, which made it harder to tell. Finally the past 2 weeks it got really hot and I knew for certain it wasn't putting out cold enough air. Yesterday was in the low 90's and I was sick from the heat while driving. Only felt like a fan blowing. I left it at the mechanic's today. They just called and said the vent temp is normal and there are no leaks. They're going to check for an electrical problem, as I also have a brake light that blows on a regular basis. (Though he said those aren't on the same circuit)
As far as my operating behavior, I don't turn it on and off all the time, and once it's going for a few minutes I put in on recirculate. I'm the only driver.
1999 Subaru Legacy sedan, 160K miles
Just bought a 2013 Subaru legacy sport. Within a week the car stopped 5 times while I was driving. There were no dash lights and all gauges were on zero. Had to restart the car each time. I Had it towed back to the dealership. They had the car 4 days and said they drove it 25 miles highway and stop and go. They said the car never just stopped while they were driving and they are giving it back to me tomorrow. I am afraid to drive this car. I will be driving highway to get home.
View 5 Replies