Subaru - Legacy :: 2010 - Harman Kardon Stereo / Audio Started To Cut Out Or Stutter
Jul 19, 2015
I have a 2010 legacy that I bought roughly three months ago. About two months ago the audio (cd, aux, fm/am, Bluetooth) started to cut out or stutter. I would turn the car off and come back a few hours later and start it back up and it was back to normal. Over time it has become worse to where after sitting over night the audio won't work when I start it back up. The display on the stereo works. I picked up a stereo from the wrecking yard, same model, and the issue was the same... The display worked but not the audio. I took it in to the Subaru dealership and the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad stereo (this was before I picked up a replacement stereo from the wrecking yard). My thought was that the amp was the culprit.
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So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
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Last week my 94 subaru legacy started giving me problems, At first it would putter out when I would go into reverse. A day or two after it was puttering out in reverse it started to putter out 5-10 secs after it had been started. Even faster when i would give it some gas. A few people had told me to replace the fuel filter and I decided to do so because I was hoping for a cheap easy fix, but sure enough it didn't change a thing.
I am around the time i should get the timing belt replaced, could that be that issue here? Or maybe the fuel pump, or fuel relay? Anyways I am working in Colorado where there isn't a mechanic shop around for at least 30 miles, and am not in a rush to fix it. Obviously the sooner the better but id rather try a few more things before I take it in.
I have the 2.2L engine SOHC. Also I have been driving on dirt roads quite frequently.
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I am currently on vacation, and will be here for another 2 weeks (3 total). I live in the midwest, and my car is currently parked at O'Hare Airport. I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 42k miles, full synthetic oil, and a 3 year old battery. Will I have any issues when I go to start it upon my return home?
The car always seems to fire right up, and with these warmer temps, I am thinking I'll be ok, but thought I would ask. I just kind of want to know if I should be looking for someone to jump me when I get back to my car.
Last, in warmer temps, in the garage, with a good battery, how long can a car usually sit for without being started? Also, if I start the car and just let it idle for 5-10 minutes, will that recharge the battery, or do I need to actually drive the car and get my speeds above 60mph?
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When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
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On the way home from purchasing this 2.5i Premium the BRAKE light started flashing when I got to 40mph. - yes, the emergency brake was off. Car was roaring like the brake was on-ablut 5 mi. to home. When I drove it back to dealer/service to get a few minor "We owe" things done, same thing happened again when up to 40mph. This was reported to service and car was driven by service manager. They reported a bad wheel bearing front R, and later in day found out rear R wheel bearing also bad. Yes, to be replaced..
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I have a Prius package IV with the JBL stereo and have just purchase a NAV unit from another 2010 prius and was looking for some info on what I may run into with the install.
Are the wiring harnesses the same?
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My 2010 Subaru Legacy has been leaking oil since the last oil change, and also smelling like burning oil. I took it back to the mechanics, and they told me something about oil pooling from previous oil changes into the splash pan, soaking into the foam in or around the splash pan, and the foam got so saturated that it is now dripping oil. The good news: no new leak, only a residual leak.They cleaned it up, replaced the foam, and topped me off-no charge.
My questions: Does this sound right/common? Or are my mechanics sloppy to be saturating foam in or around the splash pan? And is the burning oil smell related to all this splashing and pooling oil? This is the third oil change related issue I've had with them. First they didn't fill my oil to the appropriate fill line (I believe they over-filled
Then the next time they did not tighten my oil cap enough, which caused oil to spill and burn, and they couldn't diagnose the issue (I took it in complaining of the smell of something burning-almost like plastic burning, and they looked at me like I was crazy, and told me they couldn't smell anything burning. Getting it fixed took a chance encounter with a different mechanic, and he knew what it was by smell! Now I do, too).
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Just a few days back, the front passenger seat of my 2010 Legacy ceased to move forward and backward. So no one can feasibly sit in the front when I'm driving unless under 5' tall. The lumbar and seat back motors seem to be working just fine, so just the back and forward function/motor is dead. I initially thought something was stuck in the tracks that hold the seat in, but checked all of that out and nada. The motor makes no sound or vibration. I'm also surprised the seat mechanism seems to be broken in a 4-yr-old car with low mileage.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with the NAV package, and this morning when I started the car I found that I have no sound coming from my speakers. Stereo powers up just fine, all controls including nav and bluetooth seem to be functioning perfectly, and yet I am getting no audio.
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I bought this audio deck: [URL] ..... Now I want to install into a camry 03 and I managed to install but I can't get the rear audio to work. Here is the audio deck back of it :
and here is the wire for the radio and the harness
Now my front 4 speakers work but not my rear. I bought the amplifier one because the plug fits my camry as the other non JBL one doesn't and I have no clue if I have JBL or not. Now according to the instruction for the harness [URL] .... the green and purple rca cable is for the rear 2 speakers so what do I do?
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So need rims and a stereo upgrade. I am getting my Prius on the 28th and want to do the stereo upgrade immediately. My stereo shop here in Tampa is saying that they don't want to do more than 1 amp because the draw could be too much and give me problems with the electrical system. SO I wonder how much power all the things in the car take up while running and then how big an amp (or two) can I put in there? How many Amps (not amplifiers) do I have left over safely for use in upgrading the stereo?
I have a Pioneer Avic stereo (not sure the model at the moment but it does DVDs, CDs, and NAV. Has 5v pre-outs which are nice. I also want to run a set of
Up Front:
DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3i components up front
6.5" woofer, 3" midrange, 1.1" tweeter. 100w RMS per channel
I thought to put the woofer in the door, the 3" in the dash like rrolff's squaker install (I have the NONJBL audio too). and tweeter in the stock location.
Rear:
Possibly component set in the rear doors but haven't really decided yet.
I have a set of 5.25-inch components that can go back there from DLS as well Figured why not use them. but if there are better ones out there I am not opposed to it.
The amps I am considering are both JL One is the HD 900/5 which is 100x4 + 500x1 or the XD 700/5 which is 75x4 + 300x1
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I have a 2007 ES350, Navigation, climate control, touch screen all works, radio powers on and functions as if it was working. back about 6 months ago the sound audio began having a mind of its own and working randomly, very annoying to say the least. Well, now it quit all together, no sound for a couple months now.
I am knowledgeable in the area of car audio, electronics, engines etc... I think this car has a factory OEM amplifier, although I have not located it in the car yet. I know the amp is getting power because I can hear a turn on thump when I power the head unit on and off.
So I think there is a cable/connector between the head unit and the amp that was loose causing the erratic behavior, and now the bad connection = no connection as if someone yanked the RCA jacks on an aftermarket system.
FYI, I already pulled the head unit from the dash and looked for any loose connections, found none, put the thing back together and am getting really frustrated with no sound.
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I just bought an 2008 Prius and I cannot for the life of me get the AUX function to work on my stereo. I have my iPhone plugged into the jack inside the center counsel, hit the DISC/AUX key and nothing. The cable between the iphone and jack is good, because I tried it on other devices and it works great. When I have a disc inserted into the stereo the DISC/AUX button works when switching from AM/FM radio to Disc and the cd plays. But when I have the cd removed from the stereo and hitting the DISC/AUX switch it does nothing. What am I doing wrong??? Or is the stereo broken????
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Just changed second timing belt on my Accent. When starting it up afterwards it stuttered then started up. Ran fine for 10 minutes parked it and went inside. Came out 10 minutes later and same thing stuttered to start but it did second time. CEL came on P0016. I know what the code is after looking it up, but I'm sure that the timing belt is set on TDC. Could it really be the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Didn't go anywhere near it when changing the belt.
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I've never replaced a car stereo and have no clue what to look for as far as compatibility goes. My '09 Forester has a am/fm/sat. radio hookup/ 6 cd changer. Do I have to look for a specific stereo head other than it being a 2-DIN?
I'd like to be able to continue using the aux port that is in my center console, and I would like a USB port that I can plug a Galaxy S4 into.
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I have a 201o Prius with the stock stereo (no nav system). When it's hot outside (100deg+ F) and I get into the car, often the stereo display will flash and the unit is inoperable. Then, all the CDs are ejected. After I turn on the AC and the interior cools down, I can press the power button on the stereo and it comes back to life.
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I have a 2006 Prius with Nav/JBL audio. For nearly 8 months, my stereo has been cutting in/out intermittently. When it cuts out, it has the following effects: lights on the stereo itself dim almost entirely, and: AM - completely silent; FM - I hear fuzz; CD - music plays, but volume is significantly cut and sound is heavily distorted (particularly bass frequencies); AUX - acts the same as CD.
I've confirmed that the fuses are fine. Assuming it will fix my problem, I would like to replace the stereo with a new double-din deck, but I am not sure how to tell whether I am dealing with a stereo deck issue or a amplifier issue. Given the dimming of the lights, my guess is that it is the stereo itself and not the amp - I would prefer not to have to mess with replacing the amp.
Whether this sounds like a stereo deck problem vs an amplifier issue?
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Is it possible? My friend just bought a 2013 model but i'm not sure what trim level it is. It has no USB or Aux input. Is the input adapter something that can be removed from a wrecked gen 3 prius and just plugged into hers and be recognized?
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I recently picked up a 2007 Prius and absolutely love the car. This past weekend, I installed an aftermarket head unit where the pocket below the radio was (kept stock unit plugged in to avoid climate control issues, plus like the stealth aspect), along with an amp and sub combo.
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Is that normal? it says check connection of air conditions. Also the energy page went kind of blank on the battery part, and mpg and miles don't get updated any more, is that normal? how should I fix it?
I noticed there are three wire connector(besides antenna) connects to original audio system, I unplugged all of them, I plugged two of them to the new audio system, should I plugging in the other one back to it, does that work?
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